DeleriousZ

3 rotor engines move approximately the same volume of gas as a large v12. you can imagine what 4 rotors are like, let alone 6 rotor. balance is a big issue tho, eccentric shafts are da devil.

if the car isn't driving now, or you have your old manifold laying around somewhere, you could take accurate measurements off of it and give it to a company that does waterjetting or laser cutting. they should be able to reproduce it for you without much issue. some companies might even accept the old dirty manifold and measure it for you, but that's probaby at extra cost.

z31's never saw a t28, i don't know where you got that information from, but if someone told you, you should smack them. early (84 and maybe? 85?) had oil cooled turbo's (hence the turbo scoop) these were t3's, and boosted at 6.7psi stock. 86 and ALL of 87 (not until 4/87) had t3 turbo's that were water and oil cooled, boosting to 6.7 psi 88/89's had t25's that were oil and water cooled. these boosted somewhere in the region of 4.5-5psi. the t3's in the earlier cars were by NO means laggy whatsoever, why they went to a pea shooter t25 is still beyond me.

the best tig weld you can hope for on SS is a solid salmon colour. i'm not sure what you guys are on about with the constant voltage bit for tigging, but i learned with a pedel and i don't think i could ever use anything else.. having that pedel there is so much easier IMO, there's so much adjustablility and control over the puddle, you don't have to worry about keyholing or anything, can just back the pedel off for a few seconds and regain your composure. also, the HF start is tits. i couldn't imagine how many times it saved me from scratch/lift starting and re-dipping the tungsten back onto the material. one thing i found that really helps to get solid penetration on the vertical open groove welds is to add your filler rod to the back of the weld puddle. also, start with a LARGE tack. this adds backing to the start of your weld so you never have to worry about burning through right at the start. oh, and for your groove size, i found on that gauge of plate, 1/8" filler rod works well. when you're tacking it up, make sure you can rattle the rod back and forth just slightly all the way along. this will allow you to get the rod in there where you want it, and help with the correct travel speed. but take my advice with a grain of salt, i've only been on the torch for about 20 hours or so.

solid looking welds. did you purge the pipes with argon prior to welding?

has anyone here actually used the thumbwheel with the new diversion 165's? a couple guys in my class said they had that setup and really didn't like it. i can't see how it would be anywhere near as good as a foot pedel... i was trained with the foot pedel however. i feel there's way more control with it. i was trained on the dynasty's, and i must say if you've got a few extra coins sitting around, they are very very worth it. the HF start, as well as awesome square wave control makes aluminum a breeze (even for a noob like me) do the older syncrowaves have the HF start? i go thru enough tungsten as it is lol.

fair enough, that's all i needed to hear... thanks!

hey guys sorry for the old threat post, but i've got a question about the clutches... is it wise to have them directly contacting the spring plates and center section? i wouldn't think that the spring plates are as robust as the actual plates that are in there. Given the load would be quite distributed throughout the 3 discs and their friction surfaces, but still... thoughts?