jeffp

looks like a ford exhaust turbine housing stage III.

interesting, I really never had a spool problem, or a cam problem, well except the time I compromised on the cam because the builder/cam guy thought he knew best, turns out he was wrong, ended costing me more money to do it correctly the second time, but in the end I have to say @ 3100 RPM @ full boost of 22psi was almost unmanageable, but you know water cooler talk is just that. Have fun with it take copious notes each build and one day you will get just what you want. open your wallet though, needless to say you will need more then .500 lift to start.

seems you are getting boost late. A good setup will give you 22-25psi of boost @ 3K if done right. keep working on it.

been there done that! I contacted scat enterprises a few years back and they were not willing to do a one off crankshaft. But if you get anywhere with them, expect to pay in the range of 3K to have them do a crankshaft. I did know one person that had one done and it turned out perfect, all the bells and whistles. So go for it. NOTE: don't google scat, you will be very surprised what you come up with, disgusting webpage LOL. google SCAT ENTERPRISES.

10 amp will do the trick.

Looks good to me. You will really notice the difference in the car handeling with the solid inserts. One thing: You mentioned the torque on the pinion nut after you changed the flange. 1) NEVER USE LOCKTITE on the flange nut. The nut is already staked to fit the pinion gear threads tightly. NOTE: the use of locktite will give you irronious torque readings. The reason being is that as you use the socket/ impact driver. the locktite heats up with the friction of the nut to bolt threads and sets up. 2) never just utilize the torque settings listen in the manual, they are correct, but you MUST first determine the shimming of the flange to bearing inner race to get the CORRECT bearing preloading. This point is extremely important. The correct way to do the job is to remove the diff carrier so that it is not in contact with the ring gear. Use the impact to get the bolt tight, AFTER YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL TRACES OF THE RED LOCKTITE FROM THE NUT AND THREADS ON THE PINION GEAR,torque the nut to specifications. about 125-146 foot pounds. HERE IS THE CRITICAL POINT: After you have torqued everything down, you will need an INCH POUND torque wrench to test the bearing preload. I believe the specifications are, and double check, 11-14 inch pounds. That is to say, it should take between those numbers on the torque wrench to just break the pinion loose to turn. So it should take between those numbers on the wrench as the gear starts to turn. WHAT DO YOU GET IF YOU DONT HAVE CORRECT BEARING PRELOAD????? In a nutshell, a screwed diffy gearset. Incorrect adjustment will cause noise. To tight and it will overheat the bearings, and they fail, the diffy gears are toast. To loose of torque, and the bearings will be fine, but you eat up the ring and pinion gears, and the noise also, and then take out the bearings with metal shavings from the ring and pinion. So you may get away with it, but if you are like me, it took all of about 5 good pulls on the freeway to destroy my diffy. I pulled the cover to find graphite in the oil and toast ring and pinion gears. SO you have been warned and advised. jeffP

my experience with this was almost as bad as your experience, except I drove 100miles and was buying dyno time at JWT in San Diego. Sure enough, the gear spun on a pull much like yours. So the solution is this: 1) make Damn sure the pump is not binding the shaft. Use ONLY a Nissan pump gasket. 2) remove the dist shaft, and reclock the position of the drive to the distributor. Be percise, as 1/2 a tooth off will make the distributor adjustment afterwords a little screwey. If you are as fortunate as I was, the timing on the distributor was not quite enough for the slots on the distributor. 3) drill out the gear and shaft with a 1/8" drill, and buy a 1/8" reamer to clean out the hole after you drilled it. Keep everything square and perpendicular and on center when you drill the hole. 4) buy a 1/8" precision ground and hardened pin. Press the pin into the hole you drilled and reamed. Hopefully it will be literally a squeaky tight fit. Leave about 1/16" longer pin on each side of the gear. Use a dremel if needed to cut the pin to the correct length on each side of the gear. 5) using a good ball peen hammer, set the gear, specifically the pin, on a hard piece of metal, a good mill vice works excellent. Start tapping one end of the pin, and you will be able to mushroom over both ends of the pin. No more gear slip problems. Now in addition to the repair of the gear andrive , I also recommend installing the bronze oil pump drive gear in the crank shaft, and if you want, talk to John Coffee about the mods he did to the drive. Myself, trying to tighten up the slop in the drive gears, set the cover up to stop the up and down motion of the drive gear in the cover and minimize that movement of the drive gears. The reason being is that the shaft movement up and down equated to about 2 degrees of tolerance in the timing. Now how would that be under boost @ 600hp @ 7K RPM. Marbles get into the engine and bad things start happening to the ring lands right Tony LOL. Hope that answers your question.

Tony is correct, many many dollars spent on the dyno. I have used them all, super-flo dyno-paks mustange dyno-jet above floor and in floor setups. The dyno is a cool thing to utilize to get a good idea of what your engine/car is doing. I also believe the best dyno for engines is an engine stand dyno. I never have gotten a good tune and then was ready for the street, there were ALWAYS lean spots in the RPM range. The car really needs to be on the move to tune it the best, but the dyno is a great place to start. Then with a few data logs, you can finish up the car tuning, but engines on the stand are a better representation of actual operating conditions, as you can control the air temp, and water temp in a lab like enviroment to get better tuning results. And if you have Tony around to point out various things happening during the pull, then your golden LOL.

I ran -6 line (5/16) for quite a long time in my car. I did start to have delivery issues when I pushed the engine to about 550hp. Then I started to see some trouble. The biggest thing is to get injectors sized correctly. Pushing the fuel pressure up to 4 BAR is really a tough thing to do. Most of the pumps out there just will not provide good pressure with boost added to the mx. So unless you are running some high hp numbers (well realitivity high LOL)then keep what you have. I can tell you, there are very few shops, or people who will do a good line for you. Myself, I just went to 1/2 316L seamless line. I have never had any further flow problems since.

I wouls like a set for my car. Currently I have installed the special products adjusters, but they are limited on their operation, and I have never been happy with them. Ine thing I would like to get some clarification on is , when the kit is installed, how do the half shafts look with the car on the ground. Do the shafts promote the squatting actio the ZX cars like to do, or have you taken the angle out of the shaft for the lowered cars so that it will not squat like a stock car does. I would really like to fet this part if it will fix some of the zx problems.

You know, sometimes it is better not to listen to all of the internet talk. This has been a topic of discussion time and time again. The Schnider cams are not a good buy, due to the metal and how it was hardened. Nitrating a cam is fine, but did you have the hardness tested after the procedure? For your information. when you harden two contact pieces of metal, generally speaking, one piece of metal is hardened to say 45Rc the second piece of metal hardened to 50Rc. ALWAYS and forever and a day, when you make two contact parts hard, you make the (WEAR PART) 5Rc softer then the other part, if NOT you WILL wear out one of the parts QUICKLY! Looks like to me the cam was still to soft, the rocker pads looked good, a little worn due to the soft metal coming off of the cam, but for the most part they looked good. WHY, do some of you try to defy what is already known about some products for this engine. Is is that so you can say they were wrong? Get a NISSAN CAN out of an old engine! Send that cam to ISKY CAMS and tell Ron Jeff Priddy sent you. Have ISKY grind the cam you want FROM A NISSAN OEM CAM! If you can find a RACER Brown cam USE THAT, it is a good billet. Or call JWT and talk to Clark and tell him what you want, They have ALL of the old Racer Brown stock. You guys are more then welcome to try NEW things, but it is going to more then likely cost you, and a repair and replacement of the cam and rockers. You mentioned you had SINGLE springs with a .550 lift cam, if what I read was correct. ONLY SUNBELT that I know of runs the SINGLE spring configuration on their cams, I think from memory the seat pressure is about 75-80psi on the seat. Have fun with RPM's over 7K. Talk to Dave Robello, he did a head for me $700.00 I provided the cam blank (stock Nissan Cam) and rockers. He did all of the rest, that head after being torn down three times that I know of, is STILL running on Bernards engine, NO PROBLEMS! This stuff is not rocket science guys, go with the people who have BLAZED the trail for you and forget about all the new cool stuff, well unless you are running a roller rocker and cam setup, oops, disregard that last comment LOL. Anyway, I am sorry to hear about your problem. That can be an expensive repair. And YES prime the engine before you try to start it, JUST LIKE A SB CHEVY TONY, has worked EVERY time for me, well except for the oil all over your hand when you pull the pump down to get the drive gear installed after you prime the engine, and don't let the engine sit afert the priming procedure. Start the engine imediately after you have primed, and the oil pump will take right off while cranking the engine. Oil spray bars, in my opinion are a requirement for a high lift cam. True they don't spray right at the lobe on the correct side, but that really is not a problem when the engine is running. Also, you mentioned the oil holes in the cam, Don't even think about drilling a oil hole on the lobe where the ramp starts. The hole was placed right where it needs to be. If you do drill for oiling on the beginning ramp, on the toe, or as the lobe rotates after the toe on the closing side of the lobe, I will GUARANTEE you WILL see a wear pattern on the rocker pad right where the new oil hole is located on the lobe. You need to oil on the HEEL of the lobe, you know whaer there is valve lash. As hard as it may seen to believe, that new small oil hole in the incorrect place will act like a SCRAPER on the rocker pad. I have a good story about this procedure that was recommended to me for crank journals from a hotrod book, needless to say when I tore the engine down I noted the scraping on the rod and main bearings, a little different situation, but the results WILL be the same. anyway.

theyare different, but that is not to say you cant make it work. If I were in you place, Iwould just do the 60mm TB upgrade. Arizona zcar has the adapter for about 45 USD and you can source the TB easily enough. Good upgrade, and that should be all you will ever need, well unless you want to run more then 600hp.

In my opinion, you are wasting you time efforts and money. You want a quicker throttle response, get a 11 Lb flywheel and you will be happy. That modification is is strictly for race, on a N/A engine. Also, you just may want to talk to BHK for a damper. The ATI component is expensive, and I am not all the convenienced they located the harmonic frequency of the L28 engine. Myexperience with ATI is that they really could not be bothered with the L engine seriously. Also, at the time I was speaking to them, they had no solution for bely pullies for the damper and the L engine. I contacted BHK and worked with them to develop a damper that was tuned for the correct harmonics of the L engine. The part was tested at Robello racing and verified with a stock damper to ensure the tuning was correct. The new part was then tested at Robello racing, real time functional tests on a dyno. So that is my take, I really got to a point with this stuff and vendors that if they gave me guff, and the standard yea we can do that fast talking routine, I told them thank you, you don't have the parts and equipment I require for my car. At the time ATI treated me like a bastard child because I was not building a small block chevy. So with about 90K invested in my car, I wasn't about to get into the standard engineering pissing match with them. BHK , robello, and myself developed a number of damper configurations and I am very happy with their product. Now, if you really want the very best damper for your engine, you need a fluid damper, hands down that is the very best solution for the L engine damper, but again, they had not time for me to develop a damper for the L engine. However, they do make a damper, that shewbeck utilized with a few thousands honing would fit the L engine, but the pully issue was and still is a part that has to be custom made. I think ATI is alot of hype, and their product in reality is not suited for the L engine as an off the shelf bolt on component.

Looking at your dyno graph, my recommendation is to start by degreeing the cam with a degree wheel and get the cam timing corrected. the peeky torque is caused by the cam timing. The number one thing the zcar community, not all, NEVER does! you have the cam timing worng and you get those kind of results. So start there, and the Z31 ECU will do everything you want it to do.

Ok well, you did not say what the application is, but the specifications that you stated are more cam then you need. 62 degrees overlap will give you a soggy bottem end, and you should start making power in the 3-3500 rpm range. The lobe center is WAY off! you need to look at a 110-112 lobe center for the results you are looking for. Also the .480 lift could be a little higher say in the .500-.550 range. This is a street car right? so what is better suited to your application is a short duration and high lift not the long duration short lift for the best results.