rvandivort

First, I want to say how sorry I am to mislead people on this forum. I got the the auto meter adapters Assuming the holset was metric--it isn`t. It`s all standard stuff. I saw this stuff about bsp and assumed it was universal. I spent 26$ from autometer for nothing. The t3 oil exhaust from ebay did work on the Holset. I got a t3/t4 kit from Speeedznights, and it had adapters fitting to the inlet side--I`m still short on one male to male npt(I Think!).The hose fitting on the inlet side had these ominously looking metal things on the inlet. I thought maybe this was a restriction mechanism. Anyway, after looking at the difference between that and the hole..I decided it was a manufacturing defect, shoved some #10 wire through it and blew it out with the air compressor. Otherwise, this is a good deal at 30 bucks with shipping. Any other comments on this?Thanks!Roger

Hi! Got a 72 Z sittin here in fairly good shape. No reserve. The body is in good form. I am keeping the 3`rd member and the half shafts. The engine and tranny have been removed. Either part or whole are cool. Name Your price---I want to get it out of here. Thank`s Roger. This is probably only for local folks,since it is pickup only. I am halfway between Stevens Pass and Leavenworth.

I`m halfway between Stevens Pass and Leavenworth.

The above are for sale. All are rebuild candidates. The 260 has "smoking problems"--but rebuildable. The 280 has comp readings of 150 150 150 150 150 140 at 306k. The 260 has twin SU`s. The tranny is good. Also a partially complete 72 with good fenders, hood, quarter panel, etc. Sorry about jumping threads, but could`nt get on the sell thing due to something. At any rate, this is pickup at Lake Wenatchee. So, You guys in the 509,206,360-and the other related zip codes will have to come here to get it. Make Me an offer. Thanks!Roger

Challenger! Did You chop off the front end off a stocker? Been looking for a spacer...Pallnet and Arizona Z. Apparently, they are out of business ...no response on the clicker. At any rate it would be quicker for me--got one outside the door. How did You do it-- abrasive blade on whatever , sawsall, or other?? Thank`s Roger .Great idea,Am about ready to install. Have it other than the longer bolts available at the local Home Depot.

Yeah You can, because the MS takes care of initial start with the other FIDLE options..without cold start.Can`t help You with the San Diego thing--I`m about ...well a lot of miles away! You can do it Yourself if You try.

Yaaayyy! Pulled the the tensioner and the right guide and was able to mount the cam gear drive. Front cover is on!

I`m wonderin..All the above designs have a fixed diameter pipe. At Lowes...looking for other stuff ..saw galvanized 4" dryer pipe and connectors. Could this be compressed(same cross sectional area) and used without all this under over around stuff? At The left side. Another issue is how much will reducing the id input tubing have a SIGNIFICANT effect on performance?

Bianski,Wanted to make clear what I did with the distributer. Late night blogging with a few beers sometimes lacks for clarity. I used the screw at the phase markings to lock into the bottom plate after drilling a hole in the bottom plate. The threaded hole on the top acts as a locking washer. The bottom accepts the screw at fairly flush. I then JB welded the bottom for further security. This eliminates vacuum advance. All the above comments are right on, and I am going to get a stim board as well to get an idea of how the unit is going to work in reality. Roger

KTM help Me. How do You do this? I have no problem with hacking. I`ve seen no references to this on this site. Can You refer Me?

Go MSII Dude. Go all the way! Either the two step vacuum thing that I am going to do,or the Jeep step thing. Go to the Megasquirt website to get more information on this--and there`s a lot!

I am new too with this stuff, But I am going with other wiring harnesses. I am also using My original distributer. I have locked it as per other threads on this site. If You have a dual..get rid of the red and green. The point is to have one. Brown and green in My case. I locked up the advance with a screw through the two plates where the phase lines are, and JB welded the spring advance slots. No vacuum advance. Eliminate this. Actually all advance. The msII does it for You. RS motorsports has the best deal on the harness 50$ or so. Hope this helps. Roger

Summit has stuff for this. You would have to have the local muffler shop bend it to suit your requirements.

We are talking 4 inch, and two 2.5 tubes.

And, Cygnusx1, Where on Ebay did You get that filter!

I would like clean air.

Has anybody done intake and both intercooler tubing through the drivers side without going underneath?

Hi! Got the cover off. That tensioner adjuster is strong! Used the tool from the Clymer and Haynes manuals--made My own. The thing still slipped. The Chilton manual had a different tool to fabricate--but warned that the tensioner may readjust..and it did! So, I couldn`t get enough out of the chain to get it together(top and bottom).Thank God it`s out of the car!Tomorrow, Maybe pull the adjuster mechanism and go from there. The advance /retard issue I raised at the beginning is not too much relevant..it`s such a small amount.

I mean, These things are REALLY beautiful..but, do You really need them? Probably not. It`s an illusion created by advertising.And ,Your own expectations..the two go together. That beautiful woman..well You know what I mean.

Unless You are into full time professional racing (in which case,your sponser will pay for it) Don`t enter the money pit.

Duh..got the dishes thing. Took Me a while.But, why are You folks wasting money on stuff You don`t need! Hell, help them make more money. But, You are losing it..could go into other nice stuff.

Well, I didn`t get the dishes part, But the point is that this car is really cool and bore size and pin height are irrelevant anyway. It has a great capacity for performance. Just boost the SOB!

And..let Me tell You something else!! I ran My 76 for over 200 miles at 280f. I had to refill the radiator. Took My radiator in to the shop..The guy(he`s been around for a while) said this thing should have blown!! The bottom part was totally blocked. The compression readings at 306k were 150,150,150,150,150, 140.

The stock Datsun/Nissan ones are just fine! Don`t get too greedy! Rods are cool,pistons are cool! Nissan has done a beautiful thing with the engine.It was a racing car to begin with.And ,how lucky are We for this!

68 chevelle 350 40 over powerpack heads 11.8 cr Schneider 305/295 .505 lift.