Scottie-GNZ

Sorry for taking so long, but tied up with other things. The Low-speed switch goes to open when switched to High.

The car is '78 and it has an OEM combo switch but unsure what year it came out of. The connectors that plug into the combo switch are whatever could be salvaged and only had a couple inches of wire. I determined wire function on the bench and from that point out to the wiper, the Lo & Hi wires were just extended, the 12V came from the aftermarket harness and I supplied a ground source. The combo switch did have intermittent wires but without the box, I decided not to use that function. I will check the imp on the Lo speed wire when I switch to Hi and get back to you. Thanks.

Thanks for the response and sorry for my delayed response. Haven't been checking in as I should. Probably gotten too used to thread subscription notifications. The car was a shell with not an inch of the original harness or any such things as the intermittent box. So, we have to discount the use of wire colors. I have the wiper working without the intermittent box, so I have an established 12V and ground, and ground-activated Low and High speeds. What I need is the "relay trickery". Also, the connector-pigtail I have for the Honda wiper does have wire colors that match the diagrams shown here, but I have established each wire's function. So, in a nutshell, I need to know the relay wiring trickery by wire function not color. Appreciate any help.

Blowing the cobwebs off this great thread to ask a favor. I am one of the old-timers, but been out of the Z-car world for quite a while. I am wrapping up a 2JZ-GTE swap in a 280Z for a buddy and need help getting the Honda wiper to park. Lots of great info here on how to do it but everything references wire colors. I am asking if someone could post up the relay wiring for the park, referencing wire function instead color. This project started off with a gutted shell that had no dash, no harnesses and no switches. The combo switch was salvaged without connectors and unsure of the year. The connector pigtails are whatever would fit and the wire colors do not match the combo switch. The wring harness is a generic hot rod aftermarket. The Honda wiper motor was purchased online and the connector pigtail from the JY. I have the wiper working but cannot trust the wire colors, especially coming from the combo switch. Appreciate any help. You can post it here or PM me. ps, in case my rambling did not make it clear, I am looking for something like Z 12V to relay30, Honda 12V to relay87, etc.

It's been a while since I have been on the board, so I apologize if I am violating any protocol asking for someone to share their msq in this forum. Helping someone out and want to avoid reinventing the wheel, so looking for an msq for a stock L28et, stock turbo, SVO injs, EDIS with Chrysler coil pack and MS3 V3.57. Thanks,

Hey folks, working on a buddy's S30/RB25DET swap and would like someone to please identify this oil pan and let me know the capacity. I ask because we are certain it does not have the correct dipstick and want to make sure we are running the correct capacity. TIA,

Expletives? This is a family forum, isn't it? I'll keep them to myself, LOL. It was quite a challenge stuffing a 900+rwhp-capable turbo V8 in there while retaining the stock hood, giving it a full street exhaust, retaining the grille, retaining the big front swaybar, and minimizing cutting up the car. I have no doubt it is capable of running 8.50. My Mustang has gone 8.7 with only 17.5psi and this is 300lbs lighter and with a intake upgrade will make more power. It got my attention with a 5# WG spring and the WG turned off. Take your time dialing it in, Mike and be careful testing it on the street, especially with the DP uncapped.

Never thought you guys would ever drink the turbo Kool-Aid! Taste pretty good, uh? There's more in it, just keep an eye on the AFR. CONGRATS.

Just to be clear, the 3 bottom pics are not my car or any I did. Put them there to show the modded manifolds. That setup is in an S30 as can be seen from the 1st pic. Trying to find out who did this. Every reference I saw to the truck manifolds not fitting said they hit the frame rails.

Doing some research on turbo setups in the S30 and noticed pretty much everyone who tried, said the truck manifolds, flipped/facing down, will not fit. Would like to know exactly where the interference was, as I suspect it had to do with the bulky 3-bolt exhaust flanges. Cutting those flanges off makes a huge difference. Here is a truck manifold I modded for an FC RX7 and as you can see in the other pics, those are flipped truck manifolds. Does anyone know whose setup that is?

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Do any mods have to be done to the intake to fit the o-ring style injectors? Car has a custom rail, but the barbs can be removed and the holes punched out for the 14mm o-ring on the top of the injectors.

Nobody? Let me ask a different question: What injectors are folks using on their L28et in the 42-50# range?

What options are out there for a stock-style barb injector in the 42-50lb flow rate range?

It says block not blocked. No problem, I will just move on.

Thanks. BTW, what does it mean when it says BLOCKED under the message viewing status?

Sent you a message on Friday. Did you get it?

Extreme Automatics TH400 with Griner t-brake and 2.10 1st gear.

Almost done. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=4144.0

Been a while since I fiddled with an L28et and need to know what plugs most of you are using for a stock longblock with T3/T04 turbo, good I/C, pump gas and about 15-18psi. Looks like the NGK BPR7ES is a popular choice and happens to the one I use on the 2JZ.

This is the project to replace the RX7 FC I toatalled a couple of months ago. Did not want to maintain the build info on multiple forums, so I chose one and if interested, you can view it here: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=4144.0

Thanks for the lead.

Looking for a black hatch area carpet for a 71 240Z. Please PM me with what you have. Thanks,

Boy, the Internet needs to put the 2JZ on a diet as it seems to gaining weight on a regular basis

Best way to do this to remove as many of the bolts as possible so you can see the joint where the center section goes into the housing and spray WD40 on the joint. Let it soak for a couple of hours and tap evenly on the backing plate to get it out. Of course, clean off the WD40 with brake cleaner unless you like fogging for mosquitos.