Scottie-GNZ

That's right IF you were running up to 8000. Since you will probably run to 6500, my math says about 22* and based on the document, it would retard 3.5* at 5500.

IMO, Nigel's method is dead-on on how it should be done. HOWEVER, note that timing control is based on not just RPM, but also on boost and once in boost, RPMs is not much of a factor in timing control. The HPV-1 is obviously designed for N/A applications and your method will work but with shortcomings. Since it is pointless pushing a stock L28ET pass 6500, you need to keep the advance at 3000 very low which is going to make the initial power hit somewhat soft. I would definitiely salvage what you can get out of what you have and look for a full-tilt MS or used TEC-2 if low on coins. Z-Gad and I ran out TEC-2s well over 750rwhp (look at the pic in my sig).

That's a good point about the tire diameter and it's not quite as simple as just the rear-end ratio. What really matters is the overall ratio which is a combo of tranny ratio, rear-end ratio and tire diameter, especially when you are dealing with other than the 1:1 tranny ratio. It's made even more complicated if you are running an auto tranny with a racing converter as the converter slip affects the overall ratio. A converter slipping at 10% (assuming it is unlocked) is going to make a 3.90 act more like 4.29. Combine that with a 26" tire and an engine strong enough to trap 135mph and the engine is buzzing at 7600 thru the traps. Drop it down to a 3.27 and it traps at 6400 and if you don't want to go over 6000, you have to run a 3.08. Not a problem for a turbo car as the taller gear puts the engine under more load making more power/torque. A manual tranny has no slip so a 3.90 is still a 3.90. However, combined with the tranny's 1st gear ratio and a 24.5" tire, the engine revs too quick in 1st and does not put the engine under load and most likely the turbo will not make max boost in 1st. It is sometimes hard to remember, but you cannot apply the n/a gearing mindset to a F.I. car.

Since this is HybridZ, you need to distinguish your rant as being against SUPRA owners and not the 2JZ. A 2JZ only cost 2-3x more IF you live in the "Fast and Furious" world.

Who are all these 2JZ guys you are referring to? 6-spd Supras have a 3.15:1 final drive, Z-Gad runs a 2.93;1 and I run a 3.08:1. The goal is to build max boost in every gear to get the shortest 1/4-mile..........and the less gears, the better.

SICK!!......as in sick in the head with a total disregard for the danger you pose to innocent people, whose lives you will probably take one day.

THANKS!! Which one is that on your car, the large, dual filament?

Nice. I like those. Hopefully he will chime in and let us know where he got them.

Bingo! There you go. Thanks.

This is the car I am referring to.

I looked at the 280Z grille and did not want to get involved in trying that swap. The car is missing the 240Z turn signals, so I think I will just mod the 240Z grille slightly and find some aftermarket turn signals, like ones made for motorcycles.

Are you referring to the round light down low in the air dam? Don't see any others.

Don't be surprised if that 1.32 a/r T6 housing is a little laggy. Tighten up the harness and have the car pointed straight when it comes on

That pic shows a 280Z but they are listed for 7-78 and says 70-74 require modification for turn signals. Just want to know what mods folks have done. I have seen them on 240Zs, just can't remember which members. One is a silver V8 with a low-profile hood scoop that has some mod done to put turn signals on the grille.

Whew! that's good to know. Other than my sig, have not changed my profile in 10 yrs so location may have gotten dropped in the switchover (?).

I notice I have "Warn Status" and a status bar under my name and have not noticed it on anyone else. Am I under probation or something? I own a Z again so I am no longer a stepchild.

Oops. Sorry, I am referring to this dam.

OK guys, I tried searching but had issues. For those with an MSA front dam on an early 240Z, what did you do for turn signals? Details and pics would be appreciated.

That's one hell of a discount considering the NAPA website says $73.94 at my local store. So, what's the difference between the 240Z and 280Z rotors that make such a big price difference?

Who/where has the best price on new S30 rotors? My local AutoZone is $75/ea. I thought I could turn down the ones on the 240Z I recently picked up, but they are warped.

Yup, that's what it said when I took them off.

CRAP! Thanks. Forgot sometimes that is imprinted on the rotor.

Can someone please let me know the minimum thickness for S30 rotors. Thanks.

Can someone please let me know the minimum thickness for S30 rotors. Thanks.

AMEN!! Heading down a slippery slope because we are never going to get concensus on this.