Scottie-GNZ

Oh crap, did not notice the original date. So, kudos to plainswolf for the original effort and BRAAP for wanting to bring it up to date.

Don't forget R200 3.36 gearsets are not exactly laying around in the junkyards. I would be taking a long hard look at this if I had a need.

Not totally accurate. You are missing the LM4 and L33, aluminum block versions of the LM7. The LM4 was available only in 2004 in AWD Trailblazers, Envoys and Buick Rainiers, and the SSR. Same power rating as the LM7. The L33 was only available in extended cab, AWD Silverados and Sierras from 2005-2007. It was rated 15hp more than the LM7 with the same torque. I have an LM4 from a Trailblazer EXT in my '98 Sonoma Stepside and turbo'd an LM4 from a Rainier in an RX7.

HUH?

Awesome hose. Been using it for years and never had an issue. I am using 3/8" for the remote auto tranny cooler lines and most of my EFI return line. Estimate I have over 15' of it in my car. Hard to imagine a hose rated for 250psi being sucked flat by 28 inches of vacuum. I just spray a little WD40 on the inside tip of the hose before I push it on.

Simply amazing!

Actually, about what I expected. If they could launch the car harder it would be quicker. Since it looks like a stock chassis car, I am guessing with an estimated weight of 3750# w/driver (AWD, remember), that the 164mph trap speed factors out to about 1300rwhp.

So you are saying your car is quick enough for a cage?

You guys are also forgetting the high-tech, modern day computer technology in the engine management system. The ZXT system is an abacus in comparison.

No reason why the RB should need a different plug than a 2JZ in a high-boost application. Both Z-Gad and I run BPR7E with great success gapped down to 22-23.

BRAVO!!!!!

Thanks.

What is the torque spec for the damper bolt on an L28ET? TIA,

Go spend some time researching on the V8 RX7 forum as suggested. That will help clear up some of the misinformation you have. In summary: 1st-gen is solid axle with a R&P equivalent to R180. 2nd-gen is IRS with the base models having a diff also equiv to the R180. Turbo II and some upgraded models have a diff equiv to the R200. LSD is not as common as believe and only in the bigger diff. Most common ratio is 4.10. If you plan to drive hard with a manual tranny or have a lot of power, then you want the Turbo II diff and stronger CVs. 3rd-gen is also IRS with a diff equiv to the Turbo II and 4.10s. The choice on which to get is completely up to you. For me, the 2nd-gen is a little more modern and rides like a Caddy compared to a 240Z and has one of the lowest drag coefficient of any production car, ever. As mobythevan said, you can pick up "dead" 2nd-gens for a song.

I just put one of those blankets on my turbo. Bulky and ugly as sin but my coolant temps dropped almost 10* in street driving. Another option for the radiator is a 24x19 dual pass with the inlet/outlet on the pass-side. That's what I put in the RX7. If you go that route I can sell you a Taurus fan that is modified to fit that radiator. Fits in the RX7, but want to try something else since it is a really tight fit up against the plumbing. RX7 has a shorter engine bay. Guess I am not ready to jump on the E85 bandwagon yet since the meth injection is working so well.

jmortensen is dead-on when he says building a cage is a PITA. I just finished upgrading my 6-pt to a 10-pt, with lots of help, and not sure I would want to do anything like that again. I did, however, discover something extremely useful in helping with one of the areas most amateur "cage-builders" struggle with, and that is the fish-mouthing necessary to neatly join 2 tubes together. For me it was even more critical since I have chromoly, requiring TIG welding. Google "tube miter" and download the program. You plug in the tube diameter and wall thickness of the tube to be joined, the diameter of the tube it will be joined to and the angle at which they will be joined. It prints out a template that you cut out, wrap around the tube, scribe the tube, shape the tube and VOILA, it butts up perfectly if you did a neat job. Hopefully someone finds it useful, not just for cages, but for joning tubes for anything. Just used it yesterday to join a 1.75" aluminum tube to a 3" aluminum tube for a BOV.

Plenty of room for the starter. Start working on the megasquirt in about 2 weeks.

Nice work! If you are using a high-mounted alternator and no a/c, flipped truck manifolds would have worked. However, I understand having the skill to roll your own and do it at a reasonable price. Only concern, a minor one, is if you have enough room in those manifolds for the plug wires. I am wrapping up a turbo LM4 (alum 5.3L) for a buddy and the engine has F-body accessories and the owner wanted the a/c. I ended up using a modded pass-side 6.0L manifold on the drivers-side and had a simple log manifold made for the pass-side to clear the a/c compressor. Would love to have put the turbo on the pass-side, but with the a/c compressor, water pump inlet, heater outlets, turbo, air filter and WG all crammed in that corner, I did it the way you see it. Using the same I/C. This is for an FC RX7 vert with a T56. The engine has 317 heads, Z06 cam and "yellow" springs and ARP rod bolts, MPT T70/p-trim/.96 and Speeder will be doing a megasquirt to use the coil-near-plugs. Will be a mild street car, no drag racing.

Something does sound right. I just installed 2 GSL392s and when I fired up he car for the first time i had to reach under the car and touch them to make sure they were both running.

Glock was one of the cars that chose to say on drys. Vettel was on intermediates. Massa gained a lot of respect from me after the race for the way he handled himself, given the circumstances, and being man enough to give credit to Hamilton during the post-race interviews for winning the championship. Remember, same thing happened to Hamilton last year.

Nope, that's for an in-tank and it is on the way to you.

5.25" to the point where the wires come out of the connector. I can sell you a like-new one, cheap, I just pulled out of my RX7. Has wiring, mini-filter and a nice heavy-duty insulator instead of the flimsy foam.

If you have any plans at all to turbo that engine, go with a T56. R154 is marginal with a healthy 2JZ and the 4.2L should put down gobs more low-end, brute torque than a 2JZ. Surprised this engine has not caught on yet in the hot rod world. Would love to get my hands on one.

AWESOME numbers! BTW, that crappy exhaust manifold will never work You need one of those exotic, equal length bag-of-snakes