Scottie-GNZ

HAD. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95517-when-it-rains-it-pours/

GIDDY-UP

Will be 100% sure when I dismantle the car, but when it was towed off the track, they just put a wheel dolly under the right front wheel and flat-towed it off. No signs of anything odd out back. Lots of talk Friday night at the track about it and most believe another car that had problems all night might have made a deposit on the big-end. I don't know for sure so I will leave it at that and count my blessings.

Thanks, everyone for your kind thoughts. Car is totalled and I see some evidence that I might have to at a minimum, drop the pan and inspect the crank and thrust bearing. The trigger wheel is bent meaning the front of the crank took a hit from the front-end crumpling. I went back to the track to see where I hit the wall and it was right at the timing box where top speed is recorded, 66' from the finish line. Since I crossed the finish line in the other lane, I could only get the 1/8-mile MPH and was told it was 127.34. With that, the car would pick up about 33mph in the 2nd half, so it seems I hit the wall at about........

After a long illness, my dad passed away early Tuesday morning and looking for a diversion, I took the car out last night. It was on a good pass, had a little wiggle at half-track and suddenly broke loose at about the 1000' mark. Took a hard right and hit the wall at a 45* angle at an estimated 150mph. Hard to say what happened but probably a moot point. 12+hrs later and I am feeling no ill effects other than slight soreness in the neck, thanks to all the safety equipment. Guys, this is a testament to having the proper safety equipment.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86769-son-of-gnz/page__p__823058__hl__%2Bson+%2Bgnz__fromsearch__1#entry823058 Been using email. Youtube ends up sending him an email notification.

Issuing an APB

Trying to contact him.

Looking to buy (I need 2) '80-on 280ZX pass-side hood vents. Need them with the studs intact and w/o cracks. Please PM me. Thanks.

Thanks, and I feel the same as you about spending that kind of $$$. The Super Clean method should clean anything short of a rusty tank.

Yup, I know who Bruce is. Got several answers (guesses?) on this so I decided to wait until I get the car running again and connect a bulb to each of the switch outputs and see when the bulbs light up. Only way to know for sure.

Folks, I need someone who is intimately familiar with TH700R4s to help me identify internal components. Background I have TH700R4 ('84, so I have been told) and I want to use a megasquirt II to lock the converter automatically in 4th during normal driving and at WOT in 3rd at a specific RPM. The tranny was built quite a while back with a performance VB (Transgo, I think) but was rebuilt again about 4yrs ago. I do not have much details on the builds. All the documentation I have read says TH700s have 3 wires at the connector for the TCC solenoid and the 4th gear pressure switch. However, this tranny has 4 wires. I just dropped the pan and was surprised to see what I believe are 2 pressure switches as can be seen in the pic. The 4 wires are compreised of 12V and GND for the TCC solenoid and seperate wire for each pressure switch. Since the stock tranny never had a 3rd gear pressure, I am assuming this VB was modified for one. I need someone to confirm this for me and let me know which is which. Cannot imagine the 2nd pressure switch being used for anything but 3rd gear. If I am correct, this will make it a breeze to do what I am planning. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic, but hopefully someone can recognize the ports those switches are on.

My new DD, replacing the '97 E36 M3.

Thanks. Definitely not intuitive if you are not trying. Need to make a sig photo and less text.

Don't see where I have the option to see or modify my signature. Excuse me if I missed a bug or violated some rule.

My white Z.

John, do you or anyone here know where in NYC one can be seen?

If you are referring to the CV adaptor, this evolved into what MM is selling today.

At least it will not be a rinky-dink street course. Really have to wonder how Austin can afford to build a track and host an F1 race. Silverstone just signed a new contract for $24M/yr with a built-in 5% annual increase. It cost Sepang, Abu Dhabi and Singapore around $mid-40M per race, in addition to what it cost to build their facilities. Hopefully a race-weekend ticket will be under 4-figures.

The opposite in FL. After calling 6 radiator shops, I gave up on that. All said new EPA regs does not allow them to work with fuel tanks. Someone recommended and I tried a product called "Super Clean". Used to be made by Castrol but they sold the rights. Bought 2 gals at Walmart (big purple bottle), poured it in, shook the tank around and immediately drained it. 90% of the varnish was gone except for some stubborn spots on the floor. Poured it back and let it sit for 30 mins and now the tank is clean as a whistle. It had soapy foam when I stuck the hose in the tank so it took a long time to get all out, but well worth it. This is now my new degreaser.

Thanks for the recommendation and I heard about KBS products before and how well they work. However, I don't think I need to coat and reseal mine. I was truly amazed to see how nice the inside of this tank is and it has no signs of any leakage. Maybe I am being to obsessed with getting that varnish out

OK folks, I know there are a lot of previous discussions on this topic, but I feel this one is a little different. Here is some background. I ran the GNZ the other night and discovered it is running extremely rich, possibly caused by a bad MAF. However, instead of the typical black soot out the exhaust, the back of the car was covered in a light brown soot. I pulled the O2 sensor and it was coated with the same color, telling me whatever it was, was being burned in the engine. I drained the gas and it looked good, so I dropped the gas tank. The bottom of the tank was covered with a black layer that looked like undercoating and I figured that was just sediment that settled over the years. The rest of the tank is coated with varnish. What was not coated had a light green finish, same as the outside if you peel away the undercoating. I assume that is some sort of sealer. I noticed there was a small amount of what looked like small rust-colored pebble (like fine sand) in the tank, and when I pulled the fuel filter, it was loaded with that stuff. Whatever it is turned to a paste when I rubbed it between my fingers. I am thinking it is varnish and what has been getting into the engine. I washed out the tank with soap and water and the sediment on the bottom is all all gone and the tank is in perfect condtion, except for the varnish. The tank has no rust at all. So, what I am looking for is a way that I can clean out that varnish without destroying the factory coating. I do not want to use anything that will take it down to bare metal, which is going to introduce more issues. I do not want to use any of those gas tank refurb kits that assumes the tank has rust. This tank has NO RUST and all I want to do is remove the varnish. Lacquer thinner would do the job but will probably also remove the factory coating and I am leery of things like muriatic acid, so I am looking for suggestions. TIA,

Warren, you have no luck with turbos. Hopefully they will come though for you, but don't hold your breath.

Here we go again! Why do people believe that going to a single automatically means they will have lag? You will get lag if the turbo is not configured correctly to suit the engine, specifically, the size of the turbine wheel and the a/r of the turbine housing. Most singles that people use and complain of lag were most likely designed for diesel applications that have enough exhaust energy at low engine speeds to spool up large heavy turbine wheels in big housings. The way to do it is to work with a turbo reseller and have them configure a turbo specifically for your intentions. IMO, the only "benefit" of TTs is the WOW factor, far outweighed by the cost and complexity.