Scottie-GNZ

Hey Larry, great to see you are still around. And yes, some of you will be able to graft GNZ parts in your Z and sprout a GN engine :D.

Folks, i guess I was a little unprepared for the amount of responses I received and then got distracted the last couple of days. I will catch up with the responses later today. All the parts have several requests and I will process them in order so the first person who responded gets the chance to get an item. As for the rest of the car, just about every nut and bolt is already accounted for.

Way out of my league when it comes to the budget, but I often wonder what I could do if I was willing to spend that kind of $$$. BTW, no checking plugs at the track with that beast.

Add another item: MOMO Prototipo steering wheel with hub and red/white/blue "Datsun" horn button. Lids are sold and dash sale is pending.

I have listed the following parts from my 71 240Z for sale in the classifieds: - Like new dash with Autometer gauges - Pair of doors in great condition - Full set of column stalks with uncracked cover - Louvered inspection lids. Screwed up on the pics, so cut and paste the URLs.

Thank You, Mike.

WOW! It's just a hunk of metal :D J/K :malebitchslap: Scott, your para on going too far and the wife not wanting to ride in it was dead-on. While I would have no concerns about the reliability of the car if it had to be driven to CA tomorrow, I certainly would not drive it. In the past 3 yrs with the car in its current form, I have driven it once to Montgomery (1,000) and a total of 6 trips to Reynolds (800 miles) and every trip was an absolute nightmare on my old creaking bones and senses. I certainly had the option to put back some civility in it and compromise some outright performance. That is actually what I doing, just with a different car. I know that smacks of disloyalty to the model but look at it from my perspective. I have been wrenching on this particular for 25yrs and it was brought back from the dead for a buddy who was fascinated with my Z that I built the year before, That was a 73 with a Scarab kit and a 350ci. That was followed by a JTR in '90. For me, the excitement is in the thrill and challenge of building a car in my backyard. Most do not know me that well but I change project cars as often as some of you change your underwear and I know will soon reflect on this decision and wish I had it back but there are other cars that I also wish I had back, some even more so than this one. My 302 SBC-powered 914, '67 Sunbeam Tiger and '90 M3 are cars I wish I could have now to replace the Z. So, do not feel sad for me and enough already, I am starting to get sentimental. Sad to see it go and several had an opportunity to get it and carry on the tradition but it never worked out. All my projects are funded by the sale of the previous project and as it turned out the sum of the GNZ parts exceeded the car and instead of one lucky recipient, there will be several. I plan to stick around and even continue to help organize and grow the SEZM even though I will be a "non-Z outsider". Maybe I can tweak the rules for non-Zs Gabe, you are too kind. Tim, photoshop. That is funny. Freshly rebuilt, but I do try to keep everything looking like that. BTW, for those of you who think you need a sewer pipe for a TB on your turbo car, check mine out in the 2nd pic. 62mm and gets the job done. The engineers out there can calculate the flow of a 62mm cylinder and factor in that it is ported and has knife-edge blades.

It would make sense that the late 260Z had an R200 as the 260Z was the transition from 240Z to 280Z with the early 260Z being like a 73 240Z and the late being like a 75 280Z. However, as I understand it, the R200 3.36 only came with 4-speeds.

End of an era!!

Congrats and good luck. The key will be dialing in the convetor.

Titanium I/C plumbing? Why? :malebitchslap: Because they can afford to. DUH!

Let me guess. You now realize "You shoulda had a V-6 turbo" I know what you mean about something different and a challenge. I see so many people wondering how I could give up my Z and after 3 hybridZs and owning and wrenching on Zs for 26yrs (yes I am an old fart), you yearn for something different and another challenge. I see a hair dryer in your future :D

http://www.torquecentral.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6996

Anyone have an opinion (actual experience) with OBX seats? I have a chance to get a pair of the recliners and they look nice but my biggest concern is weight. Anyone know how much these seats weigh? I do not want to add weight to the car and also need to calculate shipping. Lots of info from dealers on the web but no dimensions/weight info. Anyone have the early Cobra Clubmans? How would a 200+lb, 6-footer fit in these?

Hmm. Assumptions: 720hp is at the crank = 597RWHP (17% loss) 2381lbs = 2,540lbs w/driver Projection: Car should run at least 9.40 with seat time and if properly set up and has traction.

DING, DING, DING. Give this man a dollar. It is not boost that does damage, it is detonation. That is why there is no magic answer to the question "how much boost can I run?", even with the stock stuff. You are playing craps when you start "fiddling" with the AFM, can you get 94 octane or are you limited to 91, how much "green stuff" do you have growing on your fuel pump electrical connections, do you have a huge vaccum leak that sucks in air AFTER the AFM leaning out the engine, how are those 23-yr old stock injs holding up? I have seen 22psi with stock head gaskets and the non-turbo ring lands let go before the HGs. The magic answer I would say is as much boost as you can until you reach the point of detonation, then back off a tad. How much boost that actually is depends on how the above gets answered and as FL327 pointed, how well your setup is tuned?

Awesome conversion. I thought the same thing and wondered if the builder had ever heard of a mandrel bender. It would take a bender about 15 mins to make those pipes.

That is hilarious and I will refrain from commenting as some of you know how I feel about this mythical throne

There seems to be a general concensus that a "big" single turbo means you will have lag. That is absolutely untrue if care is taken to not just buy a "BIG" turbo but select the right components for that big turbo. One of the things that has a big influence on spoolup is the exhaust housing. For some reason it seems like only the GN crowd takes advantage of that fact. A L28et with a "BIG" 66mm compressor and a big and heavy P-trim exhaust wheel can eliminate lag by choosing a small a/r on the exhaust housing. Yes, you sacrifice a little top-end but with a 66mm wheel for 2.8L, how much does that amount to? For me, I run a 63mm compressor and P-trim exhaust but use a .63 exhaust housing and I can spin my tires at 60mph with a downshift. Another big factor that causes lag with big singles is being too rich in the lower RPMs. I try to run as lean as possible in the 1st 2 gears then add fuel on the top-end when the load increases. That is the beauty of a programmable system. I think Z-Gad can testify to this with his "Big" turbo. Nothing wrong with a big single on a V-8 if the turbo is configured correctly.

Before anyone can respond to this, we need to know what your HP and performance goals are. To some, 300hp is a high goal. To some 15psi is high boost and to me 30+psi is high boost. So, depending on what your goal is, engine internals might/might not be necessary or high boost might not be necessary to achieve it. BTW, with a turbo car, running high boost has nothing to do with daily driveability.

That little jewel is going to end up going for big $$$

Not meaning to sound sarcastic here, but running "stock with no IC" does not require foged anything. One is better off taking the money you would spend on forged internals and spend it on quality bolt-ons that allow you to run almost twice the boost, SAFELY than you could with "stock with no IC". Having forged internals does not make the "stock with no IC" state of tune run more boost. What it will do is safeguard you against detonation better but you should always be tuning to avoid any detonation.

That is a pretty good tech article. Another simple way to look at it is as follows: For every 14.7psi of boost, the engine is capable of increasing the volume it can force into the cylinders equal to its original displacement. So, a L28ET running about 15psi is capable of stuffing 5.6L into its cylinders. Apply this simple formula to one running 10psi and you get the same result as Brad specified. Note I said "is capable of" because that assumes almost 100% efficiency and as Brad pointed out, there are several factors that have an effect on the results. E.g., 10psi from a stock T3 is not the same as 10psi from a T04. Likewise, 10psi from any turbo through a Starion I/C is not the same as through a very efficient I/C, yada yada. It is all about moving large volumes of air eficiently. Whatever you end up with in your cylinders will make for a big bang and explains why turbo engines make so much torque.

You can leave me out of this one. I think it is a waste to spend big $$$ on building a powerful turbo engine and then strangle it on pump gas. No insult to anyone, that is just my opinion :D.

NO! Do not go cheap here. Spend the extra $$$ for a quality unit that cannot support the potential of that engine.