Scottie-GNZ

That Tempo fan is the same fan used in Escorts and is the fan being used in the GN-powered RX7 that was at SEZ. That thing moves a lot of air is definitely a candidate for a Z if it fits the radiator OK. It is 2-spd and Hi moves a lot of air.

As long as I am welcomed I will call this home.

Well, not exactly dead, but being retired as the GNZ. As some you now know, I have decided to retire the GNZ and move on to something a little newer and more comfortable. You start thinking like this when you get to my age The car has proven it is up to the task of handling the kind of "abuse" I whip on it and made another trip to the SEZ without even the hint of a complain or trouble. All the complaints come from the old fart behind the wheel who has gotten soft and wants comfort, cruise, a/c, etc, etc to go along with a wickedly quick but "inexpensive" car. I have been contemplating this for a while and while it is a tough decision, it is one I am ready to accept and deal with. For those unaware, I rescued the car from a wrecker and ultimately the crusher, some 25 yrs ago, probably before half this board membership was born . After 25 yrs, a car like this becomes a part of the family and you also get to know every nut and bolt. I know to some Z loyalist this might seem disloyal, but not only have I been wrenching on this car for 25 yrs, I also owned and built 2 other hybrids. One was a 73 with a Scarab kit/350 and the other a 75 with a JTR/350. The GNZ has evolved from an auto-X/slalom car with a 2.8L NA/5-spd, to a triple Mikunis & cam to L28ET to GN power. What more could I do to it? Those of you that know me know I do this kind of thing as much for the engineering exercise as I enjoy driving it. Hopefully it will find a new home and performance that is worthy. As for my plans, I intend to continue with the GN drivetrain in an FC RX7. I really wanted to do a 240SX, but I would have had to do a lot of butchering to make it work. Yeah, yeah, I know, why continue with the low-tech, pushrod drivetrain? Why not an RB, 2JZ, SR20 or something more modern? I will when someone has one of those setups in a Z that can match the GN power for performance, relaibility, low-cost and economy. The Z will forever be one of my all-time favorite cars but I will move on to another challenge. Hopefully I am still welcomed to hang out here.

Excellent post!! I have been preaching the same thing but only in a different manner and that is to understand the power you have and respect it. I know this is hard to understand and accept for some of the young 'uns and I suppose when you get to my age you start thinking about more important things, like losing your life. After my feet came back to the ground last night I was thinking about the same thing! That pass factored out to 518+hp at the wheels based on the 1/4-mile formula so I would guess maybe somewhere around 540 peak on a dyno. That's a mind-boggling 5lbs/hp and I will openly admit that scares me sometimes. Despite a decent cage, good handling suspension, a beefed-up chassis and massive brakes, I would never ever run my car flat out in full race trim mode on the street. Not only would I not survive the crash I am dread the thought of how many other lives I might take with me. After a certain point in your life you understand and accept the fact this could actually happen to you. So, Richard, preach on. You have my full support on this issue/discussion

Not sure why you think you need a TB that big but I can bring you one of those to Reynolds if you really need it. It has a little tab welded to it that was used to help keep the pipe from blowing off as the car ran 30#+ boost.

You could be right. I thought it was a Solara like Bullish runs.

No, this is the new Titan Motorsports race car. They are moving up from the SupraTT to the top NHRA Sports Compact class and the car is Solara-bodied racer with a special 3.0L built by Duttweiler. Mark is Mark Mazurowski, the tuner and driver, and a mutual friend of Stony and I.

Ran into Mark at the dyno yesterday and he said to tell you hi. He was setting the engine up on the dyno and I was just stunned at what I was seeing. 3.0L, 91mm turbo, 6" DP and because he is running alcohol, 12 160# injs. He is scrambling to get it dynoed and tuned so he can test and pack the trailer to head for the 1st meet in CA! They are shooting for 1400-1500hp and to run in the 6.70s.

If any of you LS1 users need one of the heavily ported MAFs, like the Granatelli, let me know as I have one that I cannot use.

john, the I/C is simply a device that air passes through and has no moving parts to make any sound and should not suddennly contribute to anything making metallic scraping sounds. The advice on the regulator is accurate. If you install an I/C and 3" exhaust AND you are still running the same boost pressure, the engine now should make more HP which will require more fuel. If you are running the same stock injs and FPR, you have no way to increase the fueling and an adjustable FPR will allow you to do that. As for the scraping sound, could be too much play in the turbo shaft and the wheel is touching the housing. Take off the hose from the compressor housing and see if there is any evidence of that. If you can hold the end of the shaft and move it around, then that is not good and likely the problem. As for the whooshing sound, most likely the BOV letting boost escape or hoses not on tight.

I am pretty sure it is from the center of the tire.

Drax is correct about my setup. It went 110.97 smoking the tires through 1st and most of 2nd. You have to understand that I had an SDS, my DP and 3" exhaust, NPR and a lot of tuning. Would I recommend it, NO! Not if you want reliability and yes, my turbo fried its bearings soon after but not unexpectedly for an almost 20yr old "pee-wee" turbo in unknown condition. With a really good I/C, DP and exhaust, you can push the stocker and 300hp is acheivable but tuning is the key. You woul be amaze how much HP can be made reliably if you can properly control fueling and timing at high boost. But my recommendation if you want to make 300hp is to ditch the stock turbo and do a properly configured turbo upgrade. Now you can make the power with less boost, which means less heat, which means less detontaion, which means potential for even more HP.

If "intake" is referring to intake manifold, they are not interchangeable. 4.3 is a Chevy engine and the 3.8 is a Buick.

It's an NPR intercooler......that appears to have been reduced in size, drastically.

John, can you be more specific. There are many folks out there who have powerful hybrid Zs that feel a solid axle would hold up better and give them better ratio choices for a hot street car and drag racing with slicks. The 8.8 provides a cost effective option to a custom 9". In most cases the suspension components will be cut and custom pieces added which I would think makes your statement a moot point. However, it could also be a somewhat inexpensive solution if the stock suspension components were retained and the requisite mount points added to the chassis to accomodate the stock Mustang suspension. Is your comment about the geometry based on the road racing of a Mustang or for a street car that drag races? I think most people who would want a 8.8 for street and drags probably would not notice the difference in the "handling" if your statement was specific to "handling". Appreciate your comments.

I believe that was John Scott in Colorado.

Glad to see you were able to snag that Spearco. Congrats. Personally I think your choices are fine. While I would agree with James on the bigger exhaust wheel, you did state that the car will be 95% street-driven. However, the one thing that concerns me is the cam and I know I will get lots of arguments over this but I just do not think a cam upgrade is necessary at the power level you are shooting for and the driveability you desire. I believe some of the "turbo cams" are just too agrressive, not giving the engine a chance to run under load. If the cam is a quick revver, then in combination with the smaller turbine side will make for a snappy car around town but somewhat useless power if you really want to wring it out. While quick revving and wheelspin makes for a good show, it is not the way to make a turbo car go quick. BTW, when you first test your new setup, make sure you have the boost level turned down. An upgraded turbo and a Spearco will make the same power with quite a few psi less. Good luck!

While 5 is better than 4, 4 ARP studs should be very strong and cheap.

This is the best gallery IMO. http://z31.com/~morgan/nd/

No argument about the parts being expensive but if the car is properly maintained they are virtually indestructible. Hopefully you are not trying to compare how most people maintain a Z to how a 911 should be maintained. A 911 not much faster than a stock Z? You must be joking!!!! What kind of 911 did you own, a '69 2.0L 911T? :D Sorry, did not mean to hijack this thread but had to respond to those comments.

Joe, I do not believe there are any instructions specific to the Z. Do a search as this topic has been discussed several times. I will give you some quick answers to your questions and the rest is up to you. "At one point there was a link form the SDS website to a Z installation but now the link is dead." That was probably a link to my old L28ET site. I do not maintain it anymore and it does not have the level of instalation detail it sounds like you are looking for. If anyone here finds value in my old site and wants to host it, they are welcome to do so. "I'm trying to figure out the pros and cons of the SDS vs. the stock ecu and harness." Lots of info availble here from old posts. IMO, if you are serious about making HP and maximizing it safely, there is no comparison. I cannot overemphasize the importance of tuning on a turbo engine and tuning does not mean new plugs and wires, etc. It means the ability to give the engine fuel when it needs it and controlling ignition (advance and retard) when you must. You cannot do that with a stock ECM/AFM "If I go w/ the SDS system what else do I need other than the motor(for install of L28et into '73 240Z)?" The most important thing you need is a method (which will determine materials) to mount the hall sensor. "Are there parts of the stock harness/wiring which i need to retain?" None. Rip it (the EFI harness, i.e.,) all out including all those that crap on the intake. MOF, replace the turbo intake with an early one w/o the ugly webbing and EGR, etc. SDS supplies all the sensors you need and plenty of folks here can help with placement. My site might even help there a bit. After installation you will need to build ign and fuel curves specific to the characteristics of the L28ET. Sure folks here can help you out with what they have done. "Can the stock fuel rail be used ?" Yes, but it is atrocious. Spend some $$ and replace it. The aesthetics alone is worth it but a custom rail provides the option of choosing from several types of adjustable FPR. If you are planning on running more boost you want an adjustable FPR. "Has anyone just used the SDS to contol fuel and not ignition?" Yes, but not advisable IMO. As previously stated, controlling ignition is critical on a turbo engine running higher than stock boost. Proper timing on a turbo is not just setting the initial timing. "Sorry for so many questions. Thanks in advance." HTH, and I am done with this thread

Depends on what you mean by "lots of power". Considering you plan on using a hybrid turbo, use the $$$ you would spend on a stroker and put it in quality components that prevent detonation and allow you to increase boost safely to make the HP. Even with a stroker you are going to need those components anyway so the extra HP and torque that you gain from a stroker might not be worth it if your HP goals are "reasonable". I know folks will argue that the stroker's torque is a big advantage but a well setup L28ET puffing 20psi boost has enough torque to make the stock suspension and even the best street tire scream "Uncle!". I could be wrong here, but I would venture a guess that 1 out of 3 strokers I have heard of have some sort of problem with pistons/rings, shoddy machine work, etc. I say freshen up the shortblock with rings and bearings, do some light porting on the heads, spend the money on quality bolt-ons, an engine management system and do not go cheap with octane or try to run lots of boost on pump gas.

Certainly anyone is entitled to put any engine in their Z but I am with Tim on this one. OTOH, I keep thinking people put V8s in their Zs primarily for performance and to some degree, ease of maintenance. Somehow I do not see either in this swap but it sure will be unique, probably the only one in the world and I guess that stands for something.