Scottie-GNZ

My guess would also be heat soak but do not dismiss a FP problem. The late-model hood vents are highly recommended. Consider hooking up a FP gauge so you see what is going on when you are cranking and sputtering.

Tim, NICE JOB!!

That's hilarious :D The reason I said I am stuck with my spoilers is that the outer ends of the 3-piece rear spoiler is actually bonded on the rear quarters.

3.8L turbo or N/A?

With my trapspeed approaching mid-130s, this is a topic of interest. However, unfortunately I am pretty much stuck with the spoilers I have which were originally installed for road racing to generate downforce, the opposite of what your for high drag racing trapspeeds. The one thing I would strongly recommend is the adition of headlight covers. I cannot vouch for its effectiveness, but sticking out my palm facing the wind is enough to tell me it must be doing something at 125+.

The device you described is called a volt-booster and there are 2 types that use different trigger mechanism. The one you saw is triggered by boost and the other type is triggered by TPS voltage. The boost obviously has nothing to do with the voltage and is just the trigger. I have been using the TPS-triggered one for quite some time and have absolutely no problems with it. At close to full throttle, the TPS triggers the volt booster and my voltage goes up to about 14.5. Lots debated as to its value but since I am demanding my pump to deliver at close to 72psi FP, I place value on it. Just look at the performance spec sheet of a pump at the level of FP and you will see how impotant voltage is. I do not think it is needed for even a warmed over turbo Z as "hot-wiring" the pump with 10-gauge should suffice.

iskone, if the primary use of the car is autocrossing, then the 3.8 is probably not a consideration. A 450hp turbo Z-car will be a handful in autocross and the most HP does not necessarily make the quickest car. A 350hp L28ET with the balance of your money in the suspension and tires sounds like the ticket to me Nic-Rebel450CA, the peak torque on a 3.8 is rated at about 4400 and with the stock cam it is pointless to push the revs much 5500. I do not get caught up too much in dyno/HP numbers, etc, but my guess, based on what similar spec'd 3.8s have done is at 575 and probably closer to 600lb/ft torque. As a comparison, one of the popular crate 502ci BBCs is rated at 502hp and 565ft/lbs torque but those are at the flywheel. Zach, apologize again for the web page but I am just not inspired to maintain it but plan to one of these days. My front suspension is typical Z with hi-po springs, Tokico Illuminas, but with the swaybar removed and C4 Vette 12" brakes. The rear suspension is a complete C4 IRS that I modified to fit the Z. I eliminated the monoleaf spring and tube shock and replaced them with a coilover setup, custom toe-rod that also adjusts bumpsteer. Sounds like a road race setup, eh? Well, if I was road racing, the same setup with the proper adjustments would work equally well, but that is another discussion. I recently found a DANA44 diff and swapped that in. The Vette used 3" aluminum driveshaft and 3.5" aluminum halfshafts but I replaced them with 3" steel for the abuse I had planned. Couple weeks ago I tested the IRS to its limit and cut a 1.393 60' and since then have a couple of 1.40s and low-1.40s. The tranny will probably now break before the rear-end. I broke a 280ZXT CV on a hard launch but the main reason I switched was gearing. I am now running 3.08 and was not willing to pay the big $$$ to get NISMO stuff. If I did, I am sure I would probably eventually break the stub axle. I would go out on a limb and say if Stony was running an automatic, not only would his R200 setup hold up, the car would be quicker in the 1/4 with the right gearing and convertor. Watch and see what 240Z Turbo does when he puts the P-Glide behind his 3.1 TT. Yikes, I am rambling

The beauty of a well setup turbo engine is that even making 500RWHP, it is still streetable and economical. I get mid-20s on the highway. For the street, turn the boost down, less timing, pump gas, putt-putt around town and still kick ass. Get to the track, add octane, more aggressive timing and crank up the boost. Instant 75-100hp at the wheels. As for the 3.8 with a manual trans, oft-discussed topic and Dan0myte summed it up nicely. No OEM 5 or 6-spd would hold up to the torque of a 450RWHP 3.8 with a hard launch. If the tranny survived the axles would not. Would anyone even consider putting a T-56 behind a hot BBC and dropping the clutch at the track?

Sorry about the website, I just have not been keeping it up to date. At the last SEZ I went 10.34 @ 133.94 with a lazy 1.58 60' and 26psi boost. 2,750lbs with me factors out to 501.95RWHP by my formula. Lots more left as I have not pushed it to the limit yet. I am doing some experimentation and recently went 10.31 @ 131.02 with a 1.407 60' on only 21.5psi boost!! Note: I assume you mean 500RWHP and with larger injs this combo should be good for 550-575. Having said all of that, here are my mods and some approx costs: - Stock bottom end with hyper pistons and ARP rod bolts - ported iron heads and port-matched intake - $1500 new, $? used - 62mm TB (57mm stock) - $100 - 63mm turbo with P-trim and .63 a/r exhaust - $725 new, $?? used - FMIC - ~$500 new, $? used - 57# injs - $300 new, $? used - stock ECM with custom chip - $250 - scan tool - $250 new, $? used While not an engine mod, the Art Carr 9.5" convertor and suspension is a big factor. Lots of octane allows lots of boost safely but you must tune, tune, tune, tune. Just bolting on the parts does not guarantee the power. While both engines can make the same power, they are 2 completely different animals. Call me a skeptic but I will say the 7mgte will need more than just a big turbo to make 500RWHP. Even so, the kind of turbo it will need might make it a little laggy and peaky, like the 2JZ. The 3.8L is a low-revving, torque monster that works best with an automatic and that might play into your decision as you did not say how you intend to use that 500RWHP and in the case of the 3.8, close to 600lb/ft of torque.

Drop Z-Gad an email as this sounds familiar.

My cabobulator says 11.60 @ 119 with 2,770lbs = 356RWHP. So much for translating dyno HP to real world racing. Compare that dyno HP number to your next pull on the same dyno and nothing else. Looking forward to seeing it run at SEZ4.

Pete, I am with you on "Victory By Design". One of the few reasons to watch television. Drax, you are welcomed to use any of my videos. I just request that you do not put any music in the background.

I ain't skeered

Welcome back, Myron. Whatever happened to Darth? He had such big plans for his Z.

Can you say 235/60-15 BFG DRs? What final drive are you using? Congrats and looking forward to seeing that big grin as you go in shock when you feel that thing pulling pass the 1/8-mile. What are you gonna say when you crank it up to 15psi?

That has nothing to do with the actual weight of the car or weight distribution. GAWR means Gross Axle Weight Rating and is the total weight each front/rear axle, suspension and tire system is designed to carry. Because the Z is a hatchback and it was expected that people would load their "stuff" back there, the car was designed to handle that type of loading. HTH

I will probably be going to the track next Wed night. If you can find a ride, you are welcome to come join me or whoever else might be there. I am sure if you can make it, others will come out for a get together. Too bad you have to leave on Friday. That weekend is the 24hrs of Daytona race and I will be staying there from Friday morning on.

http://www3.telus.net/rastaz1/realMan.wmv

So a bunch of us Orlando guys were at the track last and we were freezing our butts off. It had to be at least 55*.

Think about this. There is a guy out there who is boning that and loving it.

$15K I love the LS1 but that engine cost more than my whole car is worth :D and I am making about 80hp more! Maybe I am just too cheap to lay out that kind of green.

What a project!!! Between you and Rick (V8ZRACER260Z), you guys are really on the "cutting" edge.

FL327, sorry if you take offense to advising someone who will be running in the 10s @ 130+ to set their car up properly. I know people think a worn-out shock does the same things but the last thing you want on your car at 130+mph is worn-out front shocks.

Stony, you will be running a seriously fast race car so I advise you do it correctly. I know of no drag shocks made specifically for a 1st-gen Z but I have had good success with Tokico Illuminas. Had them all around from day 1 and kept the fronts when I went to C4 IRS. At the track I run them on the softest setting and it really works for me. On the street I set them on pos 3 (of 5).