80LS1T

Yup I pretty much have the motor running perfect now. I still have my annoying passenger side header leak! I cant seem to fix it. It's just enough of a leak to be annoying! LOL I probably wont take it to the track for another month or so. I might not even take it this year. I dont want to beat on it that bad quite yet! LOL Its still a fresh motor. Dont worry when I take it to the track I will post #'s. I might be putting it on the dyno real soon...so I will post those #'s when I can. Guy

Well I would be interested in the adapter for front and rear brakes for my 280ZX! With my 17's on its going to look goofy if I only have those tiny stock brakes, plus with the V8 in there I could use some more brakes power! Keep us updated with the progress! Oh and how $much$ are we talking here for the adapters? Guy

Its pretty stiff for daily driving on crappy wisconsin roads but as far as handling goes its great! The rear squats about 1/2 as much as a stock suspension with my V8 in there. When I had the L28 it didnt squat at all with the new suspension. I think there is just enough squat to be useful! Guy

So would these be for the front and rear for the ZX or just the front? Also are you going to offer this as a "kit"(calipers, rotors, adapter, etc) Guy

So you dont have that big'ol gear box on the drivers side? If no then you have some hope! Guy

I dont know where your getting your info from Auxilury but I got mine from Chrystler/Dodge/Mopar and I know there have been instances when there have been underated numbers but they actually just upped the HP#'s and TQ#'s this last month. If they were 220@ the wheels that would me that that little 4 banger is putting out about 260HP @ the crank(15% drivetrain loss). I just dont see 260HP out of that Neon. Guy

Yeah I know there was a few guys from Green Bay trying to start a Z car club but I havent heard from them in a month or so. I just found out recently that I have a fellow Hybrider only 15 minutes from me! I know I am all for a Z car club! Guy

Yup my 1980 280ZX is a rear steer. I have the power steering with the large gear box and not the newer Rack & Pinion power steering. Guy

Yeah it is running a lot better now! It is a lot more fun to drive now too cause it doesnt run at 1500rpms at stop lights(that was kind of embarassing!) Now I have to find a new gear box for the steering cause mine leaks! This is a minnor concern though! Guy

I work at a chrystler dealership and we just had a service meeting, which entales watching a movie about updates on new vehicles... The new SRT-4 Neon is rated at 245ft-lbs of torque and like 220 HP. I cant remember if those are exact but I know they are both above 200HP @ the flywheel. Not too bad for a little Neon! I still wouldnt buy one but thats just me. Im hooked on V-8's Guy

Well I finally fixed my high idle problem on my LT1! This is a for sure fix! ........ I started thinking today about what the heck could be going on with my idle speed and I remembered that I had to switch the 96' connector from my harness to a 93' connector for my IAC motor(I bought the harness from "Darius" who has a 96' LT1). So when I switch them I just took wire "A" from the 96' harness and connected it to wire "A" on the 93' harness and continued on through wires B, C, and D. Well I thought that they would be the same wiring just different connectors..... Then when I got home today I looked up the wiring diagrams on ALLDATA and sure enough the wires WEREN'T the same! I was overjoyed to see that. So I took the connector off and put the wires in the right spots for the 93' engine and sure enough as soon as I started it up it stayed at about 800-900RPM's!!!!!!! Now I just have to see if that fixes my rough running at low RPM's!(well it kinda feels like a miss but when I "get on it" it goes away"?) Does the IAC have any part in low RPM's? I wouldnt think it does but you just never know. Guy<--------VERY HAPPY RIGHT NOW!

Well I know the answer to that one! ........ I took a buddy for a ride tonight in my ZX and we got on this long straight away(about 3 miles long)(oh and I live in the middle of no where, so we were all alone) and I started to give'r and I got up to about 100mph then I took it to 110mph and all of a sudden I hear something from the rear....I was like what the hell? Look back and all I see is my louver flipping up into the air about 30 feet and flipping end over end! Then my buddy being the smart a$$ that he is he says "hey there goes your mini-blind!" So we turn around to go see if its ok....well the louver it self is ok but the mounts that it "was" on were all twisted up. When it flew off it ripped the two lower mounts off the window and broke the 2 top mounts in half (the tabs that were sticking off the mounts on the window broke off with the louver). So the louver is ok for the most part but the mounts are completly shot. I dont really care because I wasnt going to keep it on once the car was painted and tinted out, but I was going to leave it on for the mean time! I have been asking for this to happen though. The 2 top mounts broke twice before this and I JB welded them back on. It held up fine at normal speeds but not at high speeds! I laughed about it! I couldnt not laugh when I saw that louver 30 feet in the air going end over end! LOL Guy

Yeah but you cant even buy 1 helicopter for the price of those 7 Camaros! Guy

Yup 1995 LT1 is the ideal motor if your going to stay stock. However if you are going to modify it a 1994 will be good too. I have a 1993 and the only downside is that you cant reprogram the chip in it, you have to have a chip burned. If you modify your engine you can upgrade to the 1995+(if you buy a 94') Optispark(distributor). Dont buy a 1996 or 1997 cause its OBDII and it costs 2 times as much to buy the tuning software! There is nothing special about the 96/97 anyways so dont waste your money on them! Guy

Now I dont know much about emissions because I am not in an emissions zone, but if you do a motor swap doesnt the new engine have to be no older than what the car is? Or is that just CA? So if yours is an 83' 280ZX then you couldnt swap in an 82' SBC 350? Guy

I bet you don't do too well in Vegas! Tim Oh I see Tim your just trying to keep me quite because I picked the right color! :wink: We'll see when its done I guess! Guy

If you get carbon fiber pads all the way around you shouldnt have a problem with brake dust! Atleast thats what I hear about carbon fiber pads? Anybody else hear the same thing? Guy

WOW!!! Anything is possible with enough $$$$$MONEY$$$$$$! Guy

You are quite the craftsman! I kinda like them...I also think you should have them more angled down towards the hood, so that they are more flat. I also like the idea of putting some nice polish alluminum mesh under them. I think that would look great! Oh and I still think your car is going to be red! LOL Guy

Man what are you guys smoke'n? LOL Cause I cant see the face! I saw the sandle/foot right away... Guy

Well if all the interior was out and it was red under the dash then you can bet that it was a red car, cause nobody(99% of people) dont take out the dash and paint under there when they paint the car. Unless of course they are doing a full ground up restoration. I dont think thats the case here. If you get the diff and CV's then BUY IT UP! You could buy it and sell it for more than $300 most likely! You could sell it to me for $300.01! LOL Guy

Yeah I had that infamous squat problem that the ZX's had before I upgraded my whole suspension. I put in the Non-adjustabel TOKICO struts, Tokico Springs(lower car about 1" but are stiffer), new bigger sway bars and urethan bushings all the way around. After all that my car wouldnt squat with the L28 still in there. I am not really sure if it squats now with the V8 because my motor and clutch are still fresh so I havent had the chance to launch it real hard. I dont "think" it will be a problem though. If it is Im going to coilovers! All I know is it rides like its on rails in the corners! 8) I think it costed me about $900 for all that stuff from MSA. If you look around you might be able to get it cheaper. Guy

Well I have my new spindle in and new hub so that is all done! I can now move my car! Oh and I have brakes now so I must have boiled the fluid like previously stated. Man the hardest part about switching over those strut housings was getting the backing plate off my junk strut housing. Since I couldnt get the rotor off because the outside bearing was now welded to the spindle, I had to cut the outside of the hub off, then cut the spindle in half! All that work just to get the dust sheild for the rotor! LOL All in all though it wasnt too much work. To put that new strut housing and put the strut back together, put new bearings and races in, and put new rotors on....it "only" took me 6 hours of work. Now you want to know what else can go wrong!............. My brake lights dont work! The fuse is good. I just noticed tonight when I backed it out of the garage. I haven't really checked into it other than if the fuse was blown or not(which it isnt) I will investigate tommorow. Who knows maybe the bulbs are burnt out? Guy

Are you talking about the LS6 out of the Z06 corvettes? If so I will be the same mounting as an LS1 in a 240/260/280Z. Now no one that I know of has done the LS6 swap but there are a few members that have done the LS1 swap. Look up "Phantom" , "Lone Star" , and "Cyrus" They have done the LS1 swap with a lot of success. If you go LS6 dont buy the JTR conversion kit because that if for old small block chevy's. It wont work with the GEN III stuff because of the different mounting locations on the engine. Oh and how are you going to get a LS6 Engine for free? Those engines are worth some serious $$$$dough$$$$! Guy

Yeah I would say I toasted it! LOL..... Well I just got back from BQR280Z's house where he had the strut housing and rotor hub that I needed. So now I have to go out and take my burnt up strut housing and rotor hub off and put this one on. But first I have to sand blast the "new" one and paint it up! I cant put a rusty part on my car now can I?! Hopefully I can go terrorize the ricers tommorow! Guy