80LS1T

Its both areodyamics and the suspension. The suspension is the easy part. From what I understand there wasnt much windtunnel time spent on the early Z's. The problem they have is they create a lot of lift at higher speeds due to air getting trapped under the car. *Lowering your car can help.... *Putting hood vents in can help get some of the "caught" air out from under the car.... *Using an "aerodynamic body kit" and a spoiler will also help create more downforce and help "clean up" the air going over the car... Hope that helps a little! Guy

I just installed an Autometer A/F ration gauge in my dash but I installed it mostly because I needed a gauge to take up a spot! It would have looked funny if I didnt have a gauge where it is now! See what I mean! I couldnt have just left that spot empty! I dont plan on using the gauge as an accurate reading due to the fact that the O2's are not wideband. However I have the gauge hooked up so that I can read either O2 with the flip of a toggle switch. So atleast I will be able to tell if the 2 banks are running close to each other. Thats all I am hoping for anyways!

I was at the Chrysler training center in Hartford(sp?) for "Body Electrical" it was a basic overview of all the electrical systems not really specific to a certain body. Well we havent had a HEMI engine go bad yet but Im sure within the next few years there will be a few here and there! There's always some moron who doesnt change his oil! We had one guy who only changed his oil 2 times in 50,000 miles! Well those are the only records that he has of when he changed it. Not to mention the engine was extremly cruded(sp?) up with dirt and bearing material! Yeah he wasnt too happy when we told him it would cost $7000 to fix(it was a 360cid) not the HEMI. Oh and if I wanted to get a used 2.7 Liter I could get one of those! Those engines are the biggest POS's that Chrysler can make! We have done a lot of heads/engine swaps due to sludge building up and cause the timing chain tensioners to stop working(the timing chain tensioner works off of oil pressure) Anyways.... I wont be doing a swap for a few years due to wanting to buy a house and my girlfriend of 4 1/2 years would like to get married some day! LOL But I would love to have a HEMI Z! Guy

Impact Wrench! Most of the time it will stop turning once it starts to press into the tappered part of the shaft. Just get it snugged up and then you can torque it down and install the cotter pin! Guy

Well the heater controls are vaccum operated so maybe you dont have enough vaccum for some other things....fuel pressure regulator? I cant remeber if the fuel pressure regulator is vaccum controlled or not? As for when you turn on the lights the idle drops a little...how much is a little? Have you taken a vaccum reading at idle? Should be somewhere around 20psi Also do you have the specs on the cam? Guy

Well if he does that, then what will turn the fan off? Guy

WOW! I cant believe your leaving the Z! I thought for sure you were a life'r! LOL I never new what a GN was until I read some of your posts. Now I have come to appreciate the power of a turbo and what you can do if its is done right. You showed me that its not always cubes that wins, sometimes in force induction and good engineering! Your always welcome here and I hope you still post once an a while. We have seen some of our long time members leave recently for other cars and say they are going to stay but most dont. Dont be a strainger! Oh and are you selling the whole car with drivetrain or just the car and then swaping the drivetrain into the RX7 or 240SX? Guy

Sure you can wire that up with this thermal relay kit from Jegs! Its adjustable from 160*F to 210*F Just hook your power wire from the relay to your fan a walla! You would need to attach the sensor to the engine though? So you could set it to come on at when the coolant gets to 160*F. 771-18907.....Wiring kit w/threaded sensor....$59.99 Guy

Do you have another set of tires/rims? You could swap the whole tire/rim combo onto your car and see if the problem goes away, if it does then you know its the tire/rims and not your suspesion/steering system! Guy

Hey Bill! Sorry I never got over to you place after you gave me that strut assembley. My car wasnt running the best so I parked it for the winter in late september I have seen Bill's car in person and it is very nice! Lots of custom and very unique features! I really like the fuel door! 8) Anyways....I promise to stop by sometime this summer! I am going to be painting it soon! So it will be pretty close to finished then(not that cars like these are ever done! LOL) Guy

Wow that sucks! Sometimes I think you are too nice to your stepson! LOL I would go nuts if my son(if I had one) didnt check something basic like that and it fried the bottom end of a fresh motor! Oh well, I hope he learned something Guy

You can get a Quafie here...http://www.bildon.com/catalog/drivetrain/ for $1099! Not too bad! Guy

8) Thats great to hear! I bet Cyrus wishes he would have kept his now! Oh well hes got a nice little project now! This has probably been asked but whats the deal with the ABS stuff? I understand the having to have all the emissions & OBD2 stuff but ABS? That has nothing to do with clean air......does it? Last time I checked it didnt! LOL Guy

Well Im not overly concerned but its just kind of annoying. Its one of those things that annoys the driver/owner but no one else notices! You know what I mean? Who knows maybe the new pilot bearing will fix it? Guy

I measure a HEMI yesterday at work at its right around 28"-29" wide. How wide is a SBC? If I was going to swap a HEMI in I probably wouldnt do too much as far as internal work. Just some headers and turn off the torque managment! I personally think that the engine is "detuned" and that with some headers and some PCM tuning you could hit 400rwhp easy but thats just my opinion! The Ram's would be way more of a tire burning machine if they could turn off the torque managment with a button, kinda like the traction control in sports cars! I know with the 03' HEMI rams there is a wire that you can disconnect and it will disable the torque management and not turn on the check engine light. I checked Ebay for prices on them but there isnt any on there. I can only image what the cost of them will be! Plus Im not sure if there is much support for PCM tuning in the aftermarket. Someone has got to do it....right? Guy

My best friend is over in Iraq right now for the Army Reserves, and when he comes back he wants to buy a new car....He told me that he wants to buy a new Celcia GT-S. So I looked up the specs on that car...$24,000 for a 180HP 4cylinder! Not my idea of bang for the buck! So now I am trying to convince him to get a used 03' Mustang Cobra! Yeah 390HP for some where around $23-25K thats more like it! I told him with a few mods it would be faster than my car! How much do those cars weight anyways?(03') Guy

What, you can't say...... "This guy was being a penis about the situation"? J/King I am kinda somewhere in the middle on this one. I agree with Aux, that this is kind of like a bunch of guys standing around in a garage bench racing and drinking beer. You have to accept some of it and try not to take it so seriously. On the other hand I also agree with Nic, that it will get worse if the mods/admins dont keep a close eye on it. I too have been to other car sites and they do use too much of the "^$%&^%" to explain things. Some sites dont even filter out the curse words! Not to mention most of those sites dont really have too much info on actually working on cars...its more like "well if I did this, some time way down the road, what kind of HP would I get?" or "how much HP will a pulley get me " (Im not a huge fan of the "bolt-on type car guys"...If all you can do is bolt on pulleys and "ram-air boxes" then your not a real car guy!) What I dont want to see is guys complaining about using words like "bastard, crap, screwed, etc..." there has to be some acceptance! Guy

Yeah I installed new pilot bushing but it wasnt a roller type like the stock one was....I am going to get a new one from GM and install that before the tranny goes in. The throw out bearing came with the clutch set up so that was also new. I am going to clean up the clutch assembley, install a new throw out bearing, and reinstall everything this weekend. I wont know if it fixed it though for a while since I still have to send out my headers for coating! From what I can tell the TB doesnt look damaged. I did get the oil leak right around when I started to hear the noise which is why I am wondering if that is causing my noise?

Come doesnt anyone here do tranny work? Guy

Whats wrong with 345HP Stock? Not to mention there is a lot of room to grow. Yeah I would image the price will be quite high for a while though? I could make some headers now that I know I can! Guy

You know I never really though about that? Maybe I should put one in? When I had the 280ZX one in there it kept gettin pressurized and blowing coolant out of it! So I just took it out! LOL Now that I think about it I know why it was doing that, I had it hooked up wrong. I think I will put that back in! Thanks for making me think! LOL Ok now about the clutch pedal switch, yes I pu a clutch pedal in but no I did not install the whole manual tranny pedal assembly....just the clutch pedal part. I also had to modify the pedal so that I could get full travel(I used the Z28 pedal assembly), so now that switch that was in there doesnt really fit. Its no big deal I can make a braket to hold a switch I was just curious about the rules... Yeah after hearing about Mike's misfortune, I know I will be installing a switch! Thanks, Guy

Ok I installed a "Centerforce Dual Friction" set in my 93' LT1/T56 drivetrain when I installed my engine. Now after about 1000 miles on the drivetrain there is some clutch chatter. When I press the clutch pedal down a little bit the chatter goes away....? All I need is small about of pressure applied to the pedal and its gone. To me that sounds like a throw out bearing? Im not a tranny gurue(sp?) though! I went to the centeforce webpage and this is what they gave as possible causes(the ones in red are ones I have eliminated) Now I do have an oil leak at the back of the block....I pulled the tranny tonight but I didnt/couldn't get the fly wheel off so I couldnt verify where exactly the leak is. Now I am curious if maybe my clutch is contamined with oil and that is causing it to chatter? Has anyone run it to that? It doesnt appear to be soaked in oil though... There are also some hot spots on the flywheel, could that cause some chatter? Im not sure if it is really extreme though? I could take pics if you guys think it would help? Thanks, Guy

Ok well I dont have a overflow bottle for my coolant. Its either full or not full! LOL Is that ok too? Coolant cant leak out unless a hose leaks. Anybody know about the clutch pedal/brake switch for a manual tranny? Guy

Now I try to park close to the door but parking the living room is just rediculous! All kidding aside, sorry to hear about your bad luck once again. Hope you dont get screwed over with the insurance end of the deal. Guy

Just wondering how things are going with getting this feature "turned back on"? I have a small website and I know its a lot of work building a site, I cant imagine what building a site like this must be! Just curious how things are going? Thanks, Guy