80LS1T

Well I will try to put this into words.... What you need to do is take any clips out that might be over the caps of the U-joints. Then you set the u-joint over a channel. Then pound on the part where the ujoint goes in, not the shaft and not directly over the hole where the cap is. You will probably have a really hard time getting those caps loose if those are indeed the original u-joints. Once you get one cap loose turn it over and repeat. It is much easier if you have u-joint press when the u-joints are really old and rusted in. Here's a pic I drew to kind of help...... Hope this helps a little bit? Guy

So how did sanderson make the headers for you? Did you take your car there and have them make them or did you just have to modify a set of headers? I suppose swapping from the LT1 to LS1 made swap a lot easier since you had most of the wiring done? Guy

Which tube? (sorry I dont know why that other pic was up? I guess the link changed?)

You mean a NA L28......right? That is haul'n some a$$ for a L28! Guy

I actually found something to cover the large part of the harness at Menardes on Monday. It is piping / tubing for water. It looks just like the normal wiring covering only its like 2" in diameter. It is working pretty good. Now I just have to make a positive batter post in the engine compartment since I am finally moving my batter to the rear of the car. I think I am going to use a remote battery post froma Stratus(I work for Dodge so I see these every day). It looks like it will work perfect but I havent tried yet so we will see. I should be posting some pics by early / mid next week, of the new and improved engine bay! LOL Guy

No problem! I tried to link it from your site but it just showed the "box with the red X" Maybe your webpage wont allow linking? You could always put pics in your Hybridz album. You can link from that for sure! Guy

Those are pretty bold words considering your on a HYBRID site! I think those kind of thoughts should be kept to yourself. I dont think any kind of swap is worthless, its all a matter of what the person who is swapping the engine likes and dislikes. Anyways.....I am really watching this thread and I hope someone finishes this swap soon and with LOTS of pictures! I love the Supra's and the Z's so this should make for a great car! Guy

Looks nice! I put the pic on my site, nobody likes to have to click on stuff to see pics. Guy

Back when I was 4 years old, my parents got divorced. Me, my sister and my mom moved back to Wisconsin when I was 6 to live with my grandparents. My dad stayed in California due to his job. Then when I was 7(1989) my dad bought a 1980 280ZX. He was the second owner and it was California car its whole life. When I turned 10 me and my sister started to visit our dad out in CA every summer. On our first visit to see him, he showed me the ZX. From that momment on my dad promised me the car when I was old enough to drive. Then I went on my first drive at age 10. He let me drive the car down some side streets in CA(I was sitting on his lap)! It was kinda funny though cause I almost hit a parked car!!!!! He also had a Jaguar XJ8(I think it was an XJ8?) at the time but that wasnt as cool of a car to me! I loved the ZX from the time I saw it. Then when I turned 16 I started to look for a car to drive. I found a 1977 280Z in pretty good condition. Thats when I called my dad to see if I could have the ZX. He said he would ship it as soon as I have some actual driving experience. Not just a few days of driving experience. So I begged my mom to let me get the 280Z but she said no because it was too fast. So I got a 1986 Crown Vic Ltd. yeah that sucked! What a friggin BOAT!!!!!! I hated driving that car but it was pretty fast(at the time) for big a$$ boat of a car! LOL Then on Oct 25, 1999 my father passed away from a heart attack at the age of 62. I was only 17 at the time. After all the legal matters of what goes to who I finally got my 1980 280ZX on May 21st 2000. It was not the way that I wanted to get it but it has been my baby ever since then. I treat my car like a mother treats her first born child. Anyone screws with my car and I will lay a beating down on them! This car will never leave the family and I hope to pass it down to my son(when I have one) one day. I think my next project will be a 240Z though! I just love the way they look with ZG flares and a nice aftermarket front airdam! Guy

Where do you get cars to build like this? That looks like fun! Guy

Well over the past few days I have managed to hide a lot of wires and route them a lot better. I still have the main part of the engine harness that needs to be covered? Its about 1.5"-2" in diameter is some places. I dont think they make wiring covering stuff that big(that generic wire loom covering stuff). What can I use to cover this? I was using electrical tape to cover it before but thats just getto! Any ideas guys? Guy

Yup thats exactly what I've been trying to put into words! I will provide pictures but he wont be doing it for a few months. I refuse to drive my car in snow/salty/wet roads. Besides I have other projects that need to be completed before the body work. But he will be doing it come April! God I cant wait till its painted! Guy

Well what he ment by "seaming" was that you would be able to see the line between the body kit and the original body panel. Not like a gap but just a slight "seam" where you could tell it was a body kit. He said molding would be were you wouldnt be able to tell that it was a body kit and it would look factory. I told him I wanted it molded but he said the fiberglass would crack a lot easier if he molded it in like a ureathan(sp?) body kit. Since the ureathan is much more flexable you can just mold it to the body and it will flex with the car but with fiberglass it doesnt flex as easy. So he's going to mold it in but where the two edges meet hes going to use a seam filler to make it easier for the body kit to flex. Does that make sense? Guy

Yeah Tim240Z told me about that a few months ago. I didnt really check into the price of the whole set up though. Maybe I should? Who knows maybe its cheaper than converting to the 94-95' MAF system? Guy

What on gods green earth would you need 1000HP for? Can the chassi handle it..........no way not even with a cage and subframe connectors. You would need to have a full tube chassi and then it wouldnt even look like a ZX anylonger. If the search function was working I would say do a search for a member by the name of "tt350" He also thought that 1000HP would be a good idea....try to find some of this posts and you will see what every one suggested for him to do... Guy

Try this one on for size..... The guy who will be attaching my body kit is restoring an old MOPAR stationwagon for some guy. It has a shortend rear end(mopar of somesort) / two 18" MT Street Legal tires tucked under the tubed fenders / runs 14:1 compression a on 5xxCID big block mopar(it was a 440 I think but its been punched / stroked out to 500 some CID) / he only runs turbo blue / the fuel line is 1/2" supply / full interior and it is having about $8000 worth of body work and paint done to it........all for his DAILY DRIVER an occassional drag race at the track! He has another car like this that he actually uses for track use..... So is that a race car? I think its close but his intended purpose is a daily driver......even if it runs turbo blue and 14:1 compression! If you intend for your car to be a daily driver with full interior then I say its still a "fast street car" and not a "race car". Once you start pulling out interior pieces to make it ligher then I say its a race car! Guy

I would like to dress up my engine bay by hiding as many wires as possible. Since my engine is an LT1 I will be buying the Corvette fuel rail covers for starters! I am also moving my battery to the spare tire compartment due to the fact that there really isnt enought room upfont. I was using the typical wire looms and electrical tape but it doesnt look as nice as I want it to. I want like steel braiding going over my wiring harness! That would be sweet! But I dont think there is such a product? Anybody have any pics of really nice ways to cover a wiring harness? Or a place to get something that I am looking for? Thanks, Guy

Today I was talking to one of the body shop guys who has his own shop at home to do restoration(mostly that kind of work) anyways I asked him about attaching my body kit. I told him I wanted it molded in to the body and that it was fiberglass(MSA Aero Kit 2). He said that he would mold it in but that he would not "seem" it because its fiberglass. He said that it would for surly crack sooner than later and that he has a better way of doing it so that it still is "molded" in but in wont crack. He said he would "seem" the pieces on then cut the seem an fill it in will a "seem filler" so that the fiberglass could flex a little bit so that it wouldnt crack nearly as easy. It seems like a good idea to me and once its filled in and painted you wont be able to see it! Ok so how many hours does it take to install a body kit on a Z/ZX? I have the front, rear, and side skirts. My ZX is straight rust free and still in the original paint. I just want to know a ball park figure to do a really good job.......say 10-15 hours? Racer X you out there? Thanks, Guy

Just so you know goldraven the passenger side LT1 manifold does NOT work on the 280ZX in the MSA mounting position. I dont know what mounts you have for yours but I tried the passenger side on my LT1 and it hit the frame rail. Guy

No prob! Guy

Well GM's are known for getting the injectors "dirty" Have you checked the plugs yet? I would say pull the front 3 plugs and see what they look like then if they are ok I would take it to a shop to have a "Motor Vac"/Injector cleaning done. It really all depends on what the codes are but its probably misfire codes from what you have described. Guy

Yeah 26" X 19" is perfect for the 280ZX. Guy

With out a doubt the #'s should match if your going to say "all orginal 240Z" Basically if you say that(in my opinion) everything from rims to seats should be what the car came with. Now if there have been parts replaced on it(which Im sure thare has been) they too should have been 240Z parts, not 260Z or 280Z parts. When someone makes a statement like that I think they should be held liable for not providing what the description says. Did the "ad" on ebay state that the engine was not a 240Z engine(block)? If so then I would say you are screwed since it was clearly stated in the ad. Guy

No "chestnuts roasting over and open fire"? Guy