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Concept drawings?... I still feel that it will be plenty easy to figure out if something isn't working properly once the engine is fully installed. That said, it really isn't like starting completely over if in fact something is wrong, it's just a little detour. I've never completely rebuilt an engine, but I would guess that it is still more work than having to temporarily remove an engine to simply replace the one part that actually needed it--not to mention more expensive. I'm sure your vw shop is in fact very reputable as far as those go, but it's my money and I don't need to do shotgun maintenance just for the peace of mind. Anyway, back on track: I'm about to install the new water pump, and later hopefully pick up my old temp sensor to do a little testing. I would definitely listen to Careful about the instructions on install so that everything goes back in at least in as good of shape as it came out, especially the tension pulley. Interesting side note, it seems the genuine nissan pump is the only one that doesn't come with a paper gasket; I don't know if having a paper gasket is bad or anything, but they sure do love liquid gaskets, and so do I. Also, all bolts are preped with a drop of locktite.

I'm not good at estimates, but yeah it would probably cost a buttload to have it all professionally done. Even more for it to be "legit as sh*t." I'd rather just by a corvette and call it a day. A souped up l28 would be pretty nice though, and not too hard on the checkbook. The 26 isn't at all hard to find if money is no object either. If'n I get mine running I was tempted to start asking if people want kits for certain things because the going rate is outrageous. I don't know who your boys are but for most people, actually making the "kits" is the hard part. I mean if I could just order an "rb26 into 240z" kit off ebay the whole install would take a weekend. And it would be the best weekend ever. Anyhow, the water pump came today. Part 21010-21U26 on the box, but it is certainly the oem replacement and not the n1, so I'm not sure where that confusion came from.

I just realized today that Chris Rummel already discussed using the stock temp gauge for the rb swap. He confirms that the rb sensor will not work for the s30 gauge. Unfortunately he couldn't find the ohm specs on the l6 temp sensor, so he just used it and made an adapter hose to get it to work. My hope is to figure out the specs of my l6 sensor and find an alternate sensor with the same specs but also the same size as the rb sensor so I can screw it into the stock port. If all else fails I can go his route, which isn't really bad at all.

Lloyd, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And if it is broke, I'll know what needs fixin' pretty soon. I'm not one to replace every nut and bolt unless the old ones fail, but that's just me. In retrospect, it's probably more like drinking out of a milk jug without first looking at the date than eating off a dirty plate.

Are you the first girl on our forum, or... There's no such thing as too much, but, even with all the preliminary research and warnings I got, it is still ending up taking a lot more than I thought it would. Of course, if you've converted your garage into a machine shop then go for it, absolutely. That's a good name. I still haven't named mine!

My hamburger wore off but yep, that's the one. You're like an online parts catalog! Yeah overseas they don't seem to baby their engines like we do. Well, it's been sitting a while obviously. I was wondering if there's a additive treatment or anything out there that helps keep rust and fod at bay, but regular use and periodic servicing will probably do a lot of good.

Okay, I just had a little too much trouble figuring out that sensor. At room temp it's in the vicinity 400 ohms and when it heats up the resistance actually goes down. I never imagined that. So the question is, does my gauge work the same way? When I get the chance I'll have to hook it up and find out.

Cool. I ordered the one that said rb25 pump so I shoud be fine. Moving on for know, do you know if I can adapt my temp gauge to the sensor on the engine? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the sensor with the 2 wire plug at the coolant outlet is the temp sensor that goes to the ecu, while the sensor next to it with only one wire goes to the gauge only. A first I thought it was just a switch (I'm not getting an ohm reading at all) but then I saw that there is already a fan switch on the bottom of the radiator itself. The service manual seems to have nothing about this little senor or its resistance value (all I found was the test for the other sensor: .3k ohm cold, 2.5k ohm warm) but I don't think this is what I need. If this sensor doesn't work for my application, I'll need the resistance range for my original gauge so that I can get a sensor that works and tap it in or something. Would be pretty cool if the old datsun sensor went right in, wouldn't it? That is assuming the sensor on the engine isn't needed for some other function that I'm unaware of. Any ideas?

The final install of the bov. I had to shorten the T pipe you saw earlier and welded it onto the turbo intake flange at an angle so that the line would have more clearance from the frame rail. I forgot to get a picture of what the flange now looks like, but if I take if off again I sure will. You can see the T part below. I got some polished stainless so it would look more presentable as well as be easier to bend on the harbor freight tubing bender I just bought off craig's list for 40 bucks. I got the old water pump off. It looks like this should be a required replacemement before installing your engine (besides the fact that the seal may have already failed like mine). It was annoying to get off, and it doesn't look like it's in the greatest of shape either. The lefover water the engine spit out was pretty gross as well, and the block will benefit from a good cleaning before a new pump goes back on. I'm still a little fuzzy about the propper part number of the water pump to get. I know nissan uses lots of p/n's for the ame part but I want to make sure they are actually interchangeable. All the pumps on ebay look identical, however the n1 pump is also indistinguisheable from the stock version according to the picture of the one I almost bought. The belt might be interesting to get back on. Also, I'm still looking for the ati damper instructions so I put it back on right. Man I hate getting everything on and off over and over.

And another thing, does anyone know if the water pumps are interchangeable between rb20-25-26? The ones on ebay all look exactly the same except the "26" ones cost more. To make it more confusing, the p/n for the 26 pump on ebay is different than the one I found in fast. ???

By the way, I feel like your location keeps changing, stony. Didn't you start out in nz or some paradise like that? I guess your car uses all weather coolant.

Well, I refuse to buy the special tool to take off and put on the idlers, but yeah. I'm debating also having the covers lp'd since I'm already having to go through the trouble. That engine paint really let me down something powerful. I got the throttle cable from a local control cable shop. 4 ft. even and fits just right. Standard 3" travel if I remember right. Those shops can make just about anything in a couple days if you know what you want. The ball is just a universal type, about the size of a zerk fitting. The end of the cable isn't attached to it, rather it is a bored cylinder with a spring loaded sheath that snaps over the ball loosely but doesn't let go. 35usd

Sure wish I had figured out about the water pump sooner. The bottom cover, thus the top cover and the belt, thus the balancer, thus the radiator, must now come out.

I, can't, READ!!! Or, that I'm lazy, and only looked at the picture. Also, I'm in no condition to be badging my car yet.

The filters are in for good now, I think. The bpv lines are in and looking fine, pics coming soon. I filled it with oil and water... my water pump is weeping! :'( Does anyone know if it's easy to press these apart and replace the seals or do I have to buy a new one? I bet half of you guys have one to "give away" since everybody is upgrading to the N1, right? Pm me!

I think I want a set.

This is the last time I change my mind on filter placement, I swear! At least for now. I was able to mount the front filter pointing up after all without being in the way of the rear filter--due to the implementation of that modified flange for the rear filter (adding a 30 degree angle) making it possible to stick it near the strut. Note that the filters themselves have a 10 degree angle at the flange. I don't remember ordering this option, but it ended up serving me well.

Just picked up the filters and it looks like they're good to go, I just have to get a few more clamps and secure the tube for the rear filter so it doesn't bounce around so much. The front filter hangs kinda low, so unfortunately it will get dirty much quicker, but on the plus side it won't be as hot. I just can't drive through any deep puddles.

My personal website will now house all the images for this project. I'm working on organizing them into categories so that its easier to navigate. http://www.davestation.com/pages/240z.htm Ideally, this thread will then be organized into similar categories, not necessarily time frames, for an easy flow of the process to read through.

I don't like the way those filters are fitting, it's so snug that I'm certain over time they would rub holes into each other. I've returned them and ordered smaller ones. Also, I retook a picture of the fuel pump because I believe since the last time I posted one, I switched it around. The original install had it pointing the wrong way! The bov is installed and I'm ordering some high heat flexible hose from mcmaster to hook it up to the intake. Note that the front turbo flange has also changed, as well as the plug for the rear intake (needed that recirc port). Here are the individual homemade pieces, as well as the new maf flange. I've cut up the silicone tubes for the mafs already (removed legs, increased angles), here's how they sit. Updated the overflow line so it fits properly. Installed the new custom throttle cable. Much easier than i thought it would be (uses mostly original mounting with a new ball up top). Misc: The battery is in, everything in that corner seems to fit nicely so far. I jumped to the radio to test out my sound system freshly installed. Pretty sweet I'll say. First try, I like that

hehehhyeaaahhhh.

The filters I got came today, a bit of an overkill again on my part. They looked smaller on paper! I hope they fit...

Sadly, in light of the complications accompanying the new bpv, I have to abandon the air box and just get twin cone filters for now. The fuel pump is working now, but I found out I need new o-rings on the injectors because two were leaking. Also, my so-called engine paint isn't exactly fuel-proof, so I'm going to end up lp'ing the fuel rail black. Meanwhile, I got anxious and already started on the sound system, which I know is a completely unrelated topic and should be its own thread altogether, but I'm pretty excited about it because it's the first time I've been able to buy quality ingredients all at once and hopefully be a one stop shop. On the last car I ended up spending just as much on the cheap stuff because I kept changing my mind and whatnot. Also, when you have a soft top things tend to get stolen. So it's a 12" pioneer "thin series" sub that I made my own box for (as close to spec as I could get: sealed offset rectangle ~.75 cu. ft.). I hope I don't get any flat tires because that's right, it's going in the wheel tub. Two rear mounted pioneer 6x9s and an alpine deck with imprint powered by an alpine 5 channel amp on the contingency that I might end up needing two small speakers up front as well (If there's one thing I hated about the past systems it was that I always seemed to have to buy a new amp or replace one when I upgraded or bought new speakers.) Pioneer has some good amps but no 5 channels so no matter what I would need two; plus the new alpine amps are tiny. AAAnyway, the line for the bpv is still tentative so I don't want to post pictures yet, but I'm getting close to summing that up. The way I keep adding more and more lines and crap under the hood this is turning into a new car where everything is hard to get to.

Dude you're definitely going to have to accompany that with pictures