peej410

alright, well just for referance, are the screws on the front of my carb (edelbrock) air bleeds or fuel ? and is screwing it in richening it or leaning it.

hrm, i just bought this carb too, for my purposes over the winter and into next summer it should be alright, i disconnected my vacuum advance and took it for a rip last night and blew my driveshaft. needless to say its A LOT faster.... the drive shaft was a temp i tig welded together at work and im not suprised that the datsun universal joint broke. but itll be down for at least a day before ill be able to drive it again. i have a question though why if anything bigger than a 600 is too big for a stock motor would i put a holley 750 on it?

im looking to do the same with my 98 maxima, i love the motor but the only rwd tranny that i know of that will bolt up is a pathfinder unit and they are $$$ and rare . the maxima already has a solid beam rear suspension setup with trailing arms, two more arms added would make it a fierce four link, it would involve intense modification to the firewall and exhaust tunnel. Im a fabricator though so for me its just more fun look online take measurements of stuff. i know for a fact that the v8 will not fit under the hood of a crx, you will need a huge cowl, the only reason id ever consider a swap like that is for the ultimate sleeper. a huge cowl hood doesnt really file into the sleeper category, good luck -pete

when i setup my clutch slave i used a wilwood pull type, i bought a heavy duty gm clutch fork out of jegs (lakewood product) cut the end with the push pivot for the slave off, drilled a 1/4in hole in the fork put a bolt through it with some washers spaced the heim joint that comes with the slave in the center, i bought another heim for the other end. using a piece of flat stock that i put a slight twist in, i was able to position the slave so that it pulls at the correct angle by mounting it to the bolts of the transmisson mount itself. the clutch pedal is very stiff but is very linear and very smooth. there are lots of options im sure that my suggestion isnt ideal. however i love making stuff over and over again just to try and squeeze out that extra little bit of efficiency/performance...... goodluck -pete

hey guys, i know i havent posted in a while but I GOT MY Z RUNNING i work on it almost 6 hours a day now, for a while i was working full time and spending 8 hours a day on it. but it runs, and it goes straight at like 90 anyways, ive had the unfortunate trouble that most newbies have with the whole engine process.. first day i bent a valve. pulled the head off replaced propperly lapped the valve and installed a new head gasket. last i checked i have compression in all the cylinders, not much (120) cold but its uniform and the motor is bone stock. i bought a brand new edelbrock carb (was told they were plug and play for the most part) and at first it ran pretty well. Then when i bent the valve because it was running funny at idle i was trying to adjust the roughness out (didnt know the valve was bent) well ever since then it pretty much ran like crap. i have played with it quite a bit. i know im getting pretty much full spark, but with my vacuum advance im getting way too much advance at like 1500 rpm (41 degrees) , i have the vac advance connected to the correct port. i took off the top of the carb and adjusted the floats like is recommended in the carb manual. i need to adjust the idle mixture. my question is, when i give it throttle underload it bogs, one time it backfired through the carb, is it my ignition ? is it my carb ??? sorry if this is all jibberish my mind goes like a mile a minute when it comes to solving stuff like this and i get confused easily (the wonders of adult add) thanks -pete

duley noted

ahhhhaaa that makes soo much more sense now.... i found in playing with dd200 that enlarging the exhaust valve will create the same power that was lost going from the 1105 to the 1102, is this because the larger exhaust valve flows more for the same amount of duration than the smaller? does this also mean that you can get away with running less overlap ????

well i wanted to keep the compression down so i dont have to worry about any knock, this is going to be a daily driven toy, i already have a nice weiand split single plane, and 86 corvette tubular manifolds, but i will be fabbing my own headers once i get this thing actually driving.... why is the high compression essential for the big cam ? i was just playing with DD2000 while reading some things about matching cams and heads, and why 2.02s advantage is minimal.... but im confused... this site said that instead of running 2.02 heads youd be better off having larger exhaust valves installed, which would be similar to running a cam with more exhaust lift.... is this true or did i mix it up? when i punched this into DD2000 i got the power back that i lost from the transition from the 1105 to the 1102 and now its at a much nicer RPM. what im basically going for is something fun to drive that has a fairly linear (read straight line) power curve. also one last question before i get annoying, why does volumetric efficiency go up with a bigger cam ? and is there an ideal vom.eff. ??? thanks bro your always there for me with these things

thank you sir thats exactly what i wanted to hear.... would you do a cam on a stock setup ? im looking at the summit 1105 because of the nice torque curve ive seen on DD2000 and the xe 274h-10 im really new to all of this so if these are really extreme cams or something just say so and ill do my own research. thanks

well i finally got my Z running last week, what did i forget to do you ask ? properly adjust the sole rocker i replaced an over tightened rocker i assume resulted in some valve float or a delay in the exhaust valve closing thus the up and coming piston struck the valve and bent it. for now i will be replacing this valve and pushrod alone, i need my Z to be somewhat mobile over the winter..... what things should a newbie engine "builder" remember when putting a head back on ? if something like this has been asked before (probably not because most everyone here knows alot more than i) just say so and ill use that beloved search function also, is a nicer set of fresh 2.02 heads worth it if my motor has less that 2000 miles on it ? my motor is a 71 350 all stock with the 882 heads on it (stock too) -pete

I DROVE MY Z LAST NIGHT wooohoooo new pics in my personal album !!!!!!! oh and i used a volvo radiator

its been a long 18 months ill tell you that!! i made completely new pans out of 18 gauge sheet metal that i bent using a method i created which works really well which i can explain if your interestedand the brake setup can be seen on ross's website http://www.modern-motorsports.com any more questions or if i missed something let me know - pete

??

im totally a novice and i was told that the edelbrock would be good to learn on

normally youd be correct, however those framerails are 2x3 1/8th inch tube

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_personal.php?user_id=2568 you can see all the pics on my personal gallery almost all of them are new, let me know what you guys think of the custom tubular framehorn, its my own concoction, be honest

alright thanks, i think im goin to go with the griffin but i need to look into it more. i wish i wasbetter at thinking up keywords for search so i wouldnt have to bug you guys wish me luck

hmmm... i think im sold on the griffin rad

hmmm well, could you do me a little favor? measure to see if it is indeed exactly 26 inches? because that is all the room i have exactly 26 oh and i found the best stuff for absorbing rad vibrations..... its used as the foam rubber weather stripping for the bottom of garage doors. we used it on my buddys 85 mustang GT and it works great.

is the griffin epoxy or tigged?

hey dot, sick ride how much did you guys pay for the griffin? would the afco be comparable? from my understanding, its less expensive because its brazed not tig welded in a much larger assembly line thus making it cheaper to manufacture.... also, i have a brand new stock replacement waterpump.... but its the long style. id like to run the short style and a single belt setup what are my options as far as low cost/longevity ?

hmmm, well my front end is fairly heavy, after the accident i did quite a bit of over building. im glad this wont be the last Z i ever build.... i work part time at a fabrication shop and right now im still pretty much apprenticing so money is a big issue, what would you guys recommend ??? - pete

hey all i did a search about radiators and is seams as if most of you Sbc swap guys are using aluminum radiators, due to my custom frame rails i can just barely fit a 26 x 19 in rad. my question is, it seems as if alot of the aluminum core radiators only have one or two cores, while the factory style copper or brass (not really sure what it is) radiators are 2, 3, and 4 cores. is a 2 core aluminum radiator such as this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2428404970&category=33602 going to cool as well as a 4 core oem copper brass type ? thanks for your time -pete

some companies (longacre?) sell digital levels they are fantastic for stuff like that. with my Z my only problem is the fact that i dont really have anything left to referance off of that i really trust. as far as being able to adjust how level the car sits, id make a set of plates with those threaded pivoting feet. we use them for alignment stands when we have shops special order them for us. they hold a ton (literally)... practicality has kinda been erased from my thought process, nothing i do is practical anymore. anyone want to trade a CJ7 for my maxima ??? heh

yeah, as of right now i dont make too much but i dont know anywhere i can get paid to learn the right way, i recently worked on this SCCA rally car and some of the welds on it were HORRIBLE, and they were welded by someone who took a welding course at a tech school... nonetheless i explained to the owner and i will be doing a great deal of work on it once their seasons over. i have people offering me jobs left and right for alot more money and alot more hours (only work 4 hour days) but i wouldnt give it up for the world