peej410

thats definately a very good point, this cars been raced for years andit was already pretty tweeked, but its not a unibody car so welding a cage to it makes it react pretty funny. my boss has been putting roll cages in for 15 years, ive personally assisted in the construction of ten, also the guy that bought the car just seems to be some guy with money who wants to go racing so he bought a car that looked good. well this car has been repaired at least 10 times in every corner except passenger rear. at least now its safe for a person to be in on the track, cutting apart the old cage was horrifying, missing welds no DOM tube, some of the tube actually looked like what we use to build our porsche exhaust systems, i hope the owner actually races it and this isnt all a pipe dream oh i just noticed, so i thought id edit , if your referring to the door gap at the front lower portion, it was like that when we got it. i was talking about the upper rear door gap increaseing like 3/8 of an inch on both sides....

well its a full scca cage and i believe something connecting main and front hoop is necessary, i wish i had gotten some more pics of it before it was carted away... we noticed something that was peculiar and fairly rare, we went about welding the cage in a different order than we usually do and it actually effected the door gap quite a bit, but we arent too concerned because the old cage that i cut out was basically what we consider today for exhaust tubing.... i cant wait till the next one !

thanks guys... a year and 6 months ago i had no direction in life... now ive set goals and ive got something to look forward to... finally something to work for

i got a job 6 months ago at a welding and fabrication shop, if it wasnt for all of you inspiring me to fix my Z myself after the accident.... so far this is the result, its a triumph spitfire vintage series race car, i designed almost all of it myself (boss nudged me in the right directions) let me know what you guys think - pete

awesome thanks very much

i had a few suggestions, i work in a fabrication shop and in my short time their ive learned a great deal. you should make sure to get a set of machinist squares (little right angle things used to accurately create right angles) also look into an angle finder, the manual kind that has a long arm and a piece of flat steel with 180 degrees of measurement. it will ease the replication of angles from side to side. as for coping the ends, we use a bridgeport mill, which i understand is out of the price range of most people, but a good used one can be had for under 1000 and will increase the quality of your work ten fold. (if used well hehe) also, a rotary chopsaw type cutting tool will tend to create an angle in your cuts... as the saw passes through the tube it continues to grind away at the surface area of the tube on either side of it. id consider a band saw from delta as it can be used to mitre cuts, and can be used horizontally or vertically. if you can afford it, this is what i would get http://www.ellissaw.com/bandsaws/1500.html very pricey but it is the best piece of equipment ive ever used. their floor grinder is also very nice, good luck and buy your steel in bulk its cheaper

hey i was wondering what you guys recommend for stuff like the splines of the input shaft and the t/o bearing surface of a transmission and other things like that, i already know not to use very much and i was thinking something lithium based would work well, just wondering if anything out there performs better than anything else. thanks as always - pete

You will lose power raising the compression - the extra compression will cause detonation at a lower boost level as you can't pull the heat out of the mixture inside the cylinder like you can with a higher boost level and an intercooler. in general i believe you are correct' date=' however if the goal is not very high boost, then the bumped compression would spool the turbos faster wouldnt it ?[/quote'] That may be correct. The power potential of the motor is less with increased compression, especially if you are restricted to pump fuel, but off-boost will certainly be exciting, and boost is always fun. sorry to post whore but i love the quote in a quote in a quote in a quote

You will lose power raising the compression - the extra compression will cause detonation at a lower boost level as you can't pull the heat out of the mixture inside the cylinder like you can with a higher boost level and an intercooler. in general i believe you are correct, however if the goal is not very high boost, then the bumped compression would spool the turbos faster wouldnt it ?

does anyone have advice for me? if we arent sure what cam is in the mustang should we use the bronze gear just in case?

hey guys, i have a similar question but on a different application, my friend has an 85 mustang with aftermarket heads and cam, the only problem is, we cannot find out any specs on the cam from the two previous owners. we are upgrading the ignition system to an msd probillet, if we dont know what cam is in there should we get a brone gear for the distributor just to be safe??

so angry had to vent, after months of piecing everything together im less than 12 hours away from firing up my Z and driving it (up and down my driveway) after a year and a half and i realize that im stupid and when i went and bought this used flywheel i was handed a 168 tooth and not a 153 tooth, i trusted the guy (very old and trusted shop owner) and his shop burnt down a month ago! now after having two seperate shipments shipped next day air (forgot one thing) getting all excited pulling my motor out making my mounts and everything i cant run my car this weekend and i have to find a 153 tooth flywheel

after rethinking this statement i decided.... I blew it to bits, the clutch just made it easier

i have an act street clutch in my maxima its very nice although i liked the jim wolf (clutchmasters stage 3) better but it blew 3rd gear to bits goodluck

mmmm rb35 powered fairlady R.. you guys are giving me ideas. ive been thinking about a vq3.5 and q45 rear suspension in my maxima for a while...

definately now i just have to decide what to run for a TO bearing (clutchsetup)

i love seeing stuff like this. people pushing through boundaries that have barely been realized .... keep up the good work, let me know if you need any fabricators to work for ya i think that everyone here can appreciate what your doing

this isnt really about a Z but my buddy has a carbed 302 in his mustang, it has ford racing heads ??? but we upgraded the manifold to a performer rpm air gap. im new to the carbueration thing and i was wondering if hes got a holley 600 on it will we have to rejet the carb ??? the intake runners are almost twice the volume so i think we will i just wanted 2nd and maybe 3rd opinions thanks in advance

hey guys if you want to check out some new pics ! my friend and i have been playing with the idea of opening a shop this is one of the proposed logos "follow us performance"

how much hood clearance?? or is that not an issue?

i personaly would move the rack... the design that im using although a little more cluttered than jtr or msa allows me to mount the engine to my framerails and move my entire subframe anywhere i wish... wouldnt moving the rack down help decrease bumpsteer if your car is lowered??

why dont you just pull the rack off put the dampner that came with the kit on and if the motor runs right then worry about modifying your setup... although youll need an alignment most likely id think this would be the simplest way to test both dampners

hrm..... well the reason i didnt buy the jtr is because so far everything ive done pretty much effects the jtr mount method which is why i made mounts off of my tubular frame rails and why im making a tranny mount off of my subframe connectors, also i just picked up a pair of headers off of an 86 corvette for 100 bucks without the air tubes... i hear these are worth big bucks... is this true???

hrm.... my bellhousing is very different, im not really sure even what its from just that it fits ill have to get under there today and take a look at all this stuff

After spending some time helping my buddy with his 85 mustang GT i noticed that the two inch cowl he has on his car has these slits in the back that have a screen (never really bothered to look at a cowled hood b4) my idea is... the area directly aft of the engine bay/firewall is an open area where the cowl resides as we all know. if you were to cut two 10 inch long 2 inch wide holes in the upper firewall and reinforce them with little pieces of rod every inch or so and add a little mesh screen... wouldnt that take advantage of the high pressure area directly at the base of the windshield the same way a cowl would? its late and im lacking sleep so if this doesnt make sense say so... if im correct i think this would work just like a cowl hood but without the cowl, all input is encouraged - pete