peej410

ILL DO IT !!!!!!!!!

i did just that but ive replaced my framerails with 2x3 tube. if youd like i can take some closeup pics of the mounts i made. let me know - pete

alright.. is the hydraulic release bearing worth the money?? dont you also need a new master for the hydraulic release bearing? as of right now i just want to get my car on the road so i can enjoy some of the summer. now are both types of slaves shown there? why would anyone have two slaves???? sorta confused

i am trying to rebel and do my entire swap without ever buying the jtr book.... i just got to the part where my engine and tranny is sitting in the engine bay... i was on ebay just now and i found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420949580&category=33733 i was just wondering if it will work or not? (i do all my own custom fabrication so mounts and brackets arent a problem) thanks -pete

alright awesome, icant wait to get this budget sucker on the road thanks guys -pete

hrmm, both are good ideas... one question though if the carb sits at a 2 or 3 degree angle does that mean that the carb surface should be level to the ground? or parallel to the level plane of the car? right now as the car sits on stands its as level as i can get it (within a hair). tim how much did it cost to make the drive shaft, i work at a fabrication shop but ive never even considered this, should i try doing it myself? (still a novice) thanks for your time guys i appreciate it -pete

alright well heres the deal... im running a 2 bolt sbc with a t-5, and i have the bellhousing that mounts the tranny vertically instead of on the 15 degree angle like some are..... now my problem is, everything on my car that i would ordinarilly use to figure out my tranny mount ive replaced. ive made my own custom frame rails subframe connectors floors and motor mounts. my crank dampner sits about 1/2 from the steering rack and my distributor is about an inch from the firewall. whats the best way for me to determine how high to mount the transmission ? should i mount the differential and get an angle off of that with my angle finder and try to replicate the angle on the corresponding surface of the tranny output? i cant think of any other way to do it right. thanks in advance for your help and ill get some new pics posted soon -pete

yeah even though its fathers day my dad made me food and i do have energy to work on the car while hes taking a nap on his new recliner haha

todays the day for all the dads who take sometime to spend with their families and even for those who work too hard not to have the time. We appreciate you guys you define our lives through thick and thin. Todays your day to look back on all the hard work and to look at what you have, know that its all worthwile and we love ya guys. hopefully someday ill get to be a father too - pete

i am so glad that the Zcar community has respectful understanding people as members, most other forums would have been full of cursing and ridicule. maturity always wins and ross is still the man

NICE RACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

using part of ross C's kit and doing my own hunting around i was able to source calipers and rotors for my 4x4 toyo conversion very inexpensively, i got the whole package done with everything including what i got from ross for 325, with all new parts no junkyard stuff. soon i will be starting the rear setup, ross will be the first one i contact. i really think his setup is ideal if money is tight.... and on top of it all the fit and finish of his parts is superb

ross c of modern motorsports

i only wish i had the funds to put all the cool stuff i want in it now while its all apart. im maybe a month away cash permitting

KEEEP TRYING never give up never give in and when youve reached your last bit of patience, take a breath and try harder

ross is the man

very nice...... I WANT A LIFT ~!!~

perry once i get my car on the road im gonna come pay you a visit.... im from connecticut and nothing pleases me more than road trips and v8Z's

alright how bout this one, i got my Z in april of last year, 8 days later i crashed it into a moron in a lumina, that week i also found out my girl was seeing someone else.... anyways, bent the frame alot of the front suspension. on top of all that the bitch in the lumina is suing me for 15000 when there was 500 dollars of damage to her car. compounded by the fact that she insists ambulances came to the scene when she drove away. may 5th of last year brought a full tear down... i ripped off all the body panels up front pulled the motor front suspension.... i bought a mig welder taught myself to weld and purchased a bunch of power tools used. i spent weeks trying to get the carpets out, they were glued down using weather strip adhesive. eventually aircraft stripper helped me clean everything up, after that i saw the horrible mess created by the previous owner, including the passenger floor pan which was merely tacked in a few places. so i bought sheetmetal made new floor pans and subframe connectors. then came the task of stripping TAR off of all of the underbody. this guy was too cheap to paint the underbody after he prepped it so he tarred the entire thing. i por-15ed my floors i can bombed my engine bay black. i bought a chevy 350 for 500 dollars with a fresh rebuild i got a used t-5 for 100 bucks and pieced together my 4x4 brake upgrade (THANKS ROSS) my motor will be going in soon. if you are lacking motivation what i find that helps is every morning, i take a morning poop, on my way to the porcelain i bring a car magazine or a catalogue, also buy some of the cool little stuff (ive been on this stainless steel hardware kick for a week or so lol) that will help your project get together in the long run. keep the faith man, watch days of thunder alot, rent bullit and ronin. tune into speed channel and watch the races. heck try and get your wife to help. a helper thats fun to look at always makes the job go by smoother. be greatful for what u have.... i cant even find a decent girl. im also only 21 and still living at home soooo goood luck and take lots of pics... as for the kid (damn cracker) tell your parents that even though u cant drive yet you want to buy an inexpensive car to build.. something that will keep you motivated to work hard in life. something that will form goals and structure, something to keep you from going out and getting trashed make sure to point out the fact that if your poured hundreds of hours of blood sweat and swears into an automobile your alot less likely to drive like a dipshit in it good luck kid if u want more advice pm me

doh im finding all this out after i bought all my brake stuff.... oh well

that could be part of it, from my experience (minimal) if your steering endlinks and your a-arms are parallel to the ground at normal ride height you are right in the sweet spot of where things should be

i considered a motor plate but i want everything to be able to break down easy and come apart easy, i always try and design my setups for ease of use later on down the road. which is why most of my stuff is functional and ugly i also intend this to be a street car

yeah i thought about doing that too but id really like to be able to move my whole front crossmember up and down to compensate for lowering the car to eliminate bumpsteer

ive thought about one of those cross members but i dont see the point, if i ever wanted to drop the oil pan id have to pull the engine out so that the sump would clear the transmission bellhousing. i dont really like the idea of the setback plates used in the jtr setup i think that is a cheesy way to make it bolton. my motor mounts will be made up of 2 inch 1/8 wall tube cut to fit a piece of 5 inch wide 2x2 angle they will bolt through the top and the side through the frame rail. i will cut two holes large enough to insert a plate with a piece of tube with the same ID as the bolts i use to reinforce the mounting assembly thus making the motor mounts removable from the frame. i work at an automotive fabrication shop and even my boss (25 years experience with porsche race cars) says the jtr method seems cheesy, so this is the way im going to do it. ill be able to put my motor wherever i want and it will be much stronger than anything ive seen whil still retaining the setback position