roye@hrewheels.com

Tony we are actually looking for another bridgeport, do you have any info about the one you want to get rid of? RE

No, not a complete set up. The JTR kit has the engine and transmission mounts along with the drive shaft yoke adapter. The body is primered and ready to be mounted to a preped car.

Yep, still available. E-mail me directly RoyE@HREWheels.com

You will be so much happier with the CCW’s. I forged is just not the proper “image” for a Hybrid-Z. You could also look at Fikse, Their still run by Jim Fikse and you just can’t beat their reputation. RE

Please also consider how much thread engagement you have after you throw the spacer on. If you still have your factory lug studs you might not have enough thread engagement to safetly drive the car.

Im 27 now, bought my 260 from my brother when I was 16. Bought My 70 240 from a scrap yard for 400$ when I was 21. All it took to run was a battery and a new ignition coil.

You could also order a sigle replacement stud from ARP.

When you are using a backspace measurement to find your offset you need to use the overall width of the wheel for the calculation. 17x9 = 10" overall so centerline = 5.0= 127mm (I work in Millimeters) BS= 142.875 BS-CL= 142.875-127= 15.875 offset on a 9" wheel Rear BS-CL= 136.525-152.4= -15.875 on an 11" wheel If you need a detailed explanation PM me and I call you. Roy

I'll vouch for ccw, great company with great service

If you measured from the outside flanges on these wheels that back space measurement would give you ET of +16 in front and -16 in the rear So you would actuall have 17x9 et+16 17x11 et-16 PCD 4/114.3

If you were to say that you have a 10" wide wheel you would be measuring from the bead seat, so a 10" wheel is actually 11" in over all width from outside flange to outside flange. That sounds confusing- Always measure from the bead seats

I like, Michelin - BFG (same company) Just not the BFG Radial longtrails, they came stock on my truck and were terrible. Yokohama, I have a set of Geolanders on my Frontier and they work great off road, they are quiet and they have worn very little in 12,000 miles Firestone, I have never had any but friends of mine did and from my perspective they worked well.

83 Volkswagen Vanagon..........Awesome

If you like mesh wheels talk to Dave about the C70's. They are lighter than the 545's and look more like our competition wheels. They are what I will be putting on my S30 this year if all goes well. RE

From Autoblog.com Honda's departure from Formula One came down to a singular factor: cost. The amount of cash required to campaign a team (or two) in the top tier of open-wheel motorsports has been on an upwards trajectory for as long as we can remember, and combined with the current economic downturn, it was just a matter of time before a manufacturer questioned whether or not it was worth the expense. That's a tough pill for enthusiasts to swallow considering all the knowledge gleaned from F1 -- not to mention WRC. However, in an attempt to get costs in check, the FIA announced earlier this year that it would pursue a tender to supply an engine and transmission package to teams for the 2010 season and beyond. F1's governing body announced today that Cosworth has been tapped to provide the new "low-cost" drivetrain, that requires an up-front payment of 1.97 million Euros and then an additional 6.42 million Euros each season during the three-year contract. While 20+ million Euros might not seem like a bargain, it's a pittance compared to what automakers invest developing their own engine. If they opt out of the unbadged Cosworth engine, teams can use their own de-tuned version of the current 2.4-liter V8. Transmission choices are still up in the air, as Cosworth negotiates with Xtrac and Ricardo.

Glock bowed out, the last race of the season is where drivers try to firm up a future position, I'm sure we'll see him in a McLaren in a few years. You can't deny that both Masa and Hamilton are fantastic drivers but Masa owned that race, he should have been champion.

Of course if you want the anwser from the source, call schneider. They have stock regrinds for datsuns as well as fresh billet to produce whatever your heart wants. Some one there will be able to give you the full story, they have experiance with our cams and every other manufacturers. I'm not promoting them because they are local, but because they have always had a good reputation and they have helped my previouse employer out before on some weird applications. RE

Use a sbc as an example, roller lifters will take out a stock material cam, and a roller cam will take out the distributor drive gear if it is not replaced with a different material. Nissan/Datsun has always had good metalurgical practices but I am 95% sure that you will find that the surface hardening on a factory cam is not sufficient for use with a roller rocker.

The hardned roller bearing on the rocker will destroy the factory cast iron cam. You alway have to use materials of the proper hardness when using roller rockers (or lifters in a sbc/sbf). Call schnieder cams in san diego CA, they will grind a roller cam for an L-series. RE

A friend of mine runs a blown/nitro 455 in his GTO, he even had a write up in hod rod a few years ago. Unfortunately the photgrapher showed up the week after he had catostrophic engine failure so all he had to show were chuncks of the block and crank layed out on the ground. Your right though, there is plenty to be had with the older Pontiac engines. The stock Ram Air heads would flow very and allow the motor to rev much quicker if you ditched the factory 30 degree valve seats for a 45 or 55 degree cut. It seems to me though that cores are pretty hard to come by, at least on this coast. When ever my friend needs blocks and other core parts he drives his flat bed (chevy truck with a Pontiac motor) back to Nebraska to find them.

You're right BRAAP, it was the mains that were fully grooved and the rods were partials. The Idea behind the large groove is almos Pontiac specific, they have such a large main journal that they have problems with building up heat from the rotational speed at the surface of the journal. The aditional area in the groove gives the crank more cushion before makeing contact with the bearing. Your definatly on key with the Jessel set up, it's what we used in our car and in 3 years of running only had 1 part in it fail, which was the cupped end of the rocker where it meets the push rod. BTW, what size of a motor are you looking to build (in a perfect world) RE We built a 482cid SBC (yes SBC) with sb2 heads and ended up filing the bottoms of the intake runners with titanium putty and re-sculpting them up to the short turn radius to lower the volume of the runner and found that it had almost no effect on the overall air flow when we flowed the heads.

If you have not yet contacted www.eaglerod.com they have been a good low cost supplier of forged rods and cranks for me in the past. At the shop I used to for we had a Jr. Fuel car with a 400cid sbc that turned 9,300 through the traps but we did tare it down after every "race day". That motor had about 25k in it but in contrast one of my co-workers had a 70GTO with a Blown Pontiac 455. There is not a lot of aftermarket availabilty for the Pontiac motors so he used every trick he could to keep it alive. With 70% nitro it ran in the high 7's 8 times before the factory cast crank let go. He increased the width of the oil grove in the rod bearings and cut it all the way around (only 1 shell in the rod bearing set came with a grove in it). A trick nascar builders use is to pump the oil directly to the center of the main bearing cap to help offset the downward force from the power stroke. You have to remember though that the main limiting factor for reving these engines is valvetrain stability. You will spend twice as much money getting the top end of the engine to work as you will on the bottom. You can buy a "rev kit" for a sbc that sets a plate, under the cylinder head where the pushrods pass through, that will hold springs against the lifters to take their mass out of the equasion. Custom pushrods, roller rockers, titanium valves, titanium retainers, springs, all of these parts cost a lot of money and you wont get near to having a reliable high rpm sbc or sbf with out such parts. If your goal is the sound and rpm it might be more economical to to e-mail a few nascar teams and ask about buying a set of used sb2 heads (we have gotten a few sets for customers in the past) they come with a shaft mounter rocker system, the valve agangement has been changed so that the intake ports can be larger and be out of the way of the head bolts and push rods. These heads are proven to run at max rpm for hours at a time. These are your best bet for getting the rpm you want and the flat plane crank will give you the sound.

Also, if you dont have the high pressure pump hooked up; how are you routing the fuel? where is the pump you are using located? what type of pump are you using?

If your running the FI electric pump like blue72 and sweetleaf are hinting at it could cause you to hydrolock the motor. I have however seen people think that they should run their timing retarded when they first run a new (or new to them) motor. This will cause excesive heat to build in the combustion chamber and will typicly seize the intake vlaves before the exhaust, so you may want to double check that you are set to the proper ignition timing. RE

Check out a kragen, if the shanked nuts there don't fit make sure the past owner didnt beat up the lug holes or try using a conical lug on them, if he did try to install conical lugs it would close in the od of the lug opening makeing the smaller so you would have to deburr the hole. Try slipping them in from the back. RE