roye@hrewheels.com

I have a 4 barrel Manifold with A Holly 550CFM single pump and a Pacesetter with a O2 bung on it. If interested you can email me at RoyE@HREWheels.com Thanks,

Try tying your switched ignition +12 to the battery for the purpose of a test fire. I had a similar issue with my 6AL, I had it all connected "properly" but could not fire off. After adding a simple toggle switch for my ignition hot I had no problem. What I eventually found was that the factory ignition switch had a dead spot if I turned the cylinder to far, the starter motor would run but the ignition hot would go dead.

Daniel what are you using to measure AFR's? If you are seeing a "lean" condition because of extra o2 in the exhaust you could actually have a rich missfire or ignition problem. Also, when you say that you can rev it pass 3500 from an idle you mean in neutral right? Can you hold RPM in that scenario with out droppping AFR?

Thanks 280zex/Onion, I had one of my guys (also an S30 owner and forum member SDgoods) pick up the header from MSA today on his way back from picking up rim parts. Hopefully I'll get through stripping it and ceramic coating it tomorrow for install this week end. It was such a bummer to go through my entire motor and still have an exhaust leak in the header. Ill be very happy to be rid of it! Thanks again RE

I have been running the Arizona intake for a few years and when i installed it I had to grind away some material and add some sergical dents to the (pacesetter) header to get the two pieces to fit together. I want to replace the header for one that is not severly warped so that I can get rid of the constant exhaust leaks I get. I contacted Dave at Arizona Z but he did not have a clear anwser for what headers will fit with out issue. Motorsport also wasnt sure if their header fits. Has anybody else found a combo that works? Thanks Roy

I second Cockerstar, I used the "titanium" color cerakote over my cleaned up pacesetter. I bought the 4oz bottle for 35$ and used a diy spray kit from home depot. Basically a glass jar with an aerosol attachment to pressurize and disperse the paint. I did spray the part at work in one of our powder coat booths then baked it for an hour at 500 degrees. Looks great and has not peeled/chipped. It was recommended to me though not to use the air dry version for a header, it does not have the same characteristics as the heat to cure paint Roy

I was trying to avoid the dealer, I bought a bag of 25 metric woodruff keys for the crank through mc master for $8. I was hoping to get a bunch of spare Dowels and woodruff key so that i could give the extras to the machine shop i used to work for. We (they) do a lot of work with classic datsun and these two items are something we were always scrounging around for. getting the keys in bulk was easy enough, just need the dowel tubes....

Guys I'm getting ready to put my L28 back together and im trying to find a source for the 14mm hollow dowels pins used between the block and head. My engine was missing them when I puled it apart and i cant seem to find this size available. Mcmaster and grainger both go from 12 to 16mm. If any of you have had to source these before please let me know, Thanks Roy

doublez- Yes that is Pro_E that I am using, and are you telling me that you are learning pro in High School? My High School was lucky to have autocad-13. Design a wheel the same way you would machine it. Start with a revolve to create your turned profile and then use a series of sweep/cut to create the windows, use different planes to add details on different Z levels. You can create some very nice parts in this manner, surfacing for 3d machining however can be very difficult to set up and keep constrained. If you have questions regarding that feel free to email me, My user name is my actual e-mail so feel free to shot me some questions. RE

In my not so free time,

You need to have a minimum of .550" from back pad to the top of the lug seat, it is not safe to go any lower. If your wheels have Shanked Lug Nuts also consider that the shank must be shorter than the seat X-section otherwise you will bottom them against the hub giving you a false torq reading and loose wheels. RE

Are you going to run gigantic spacers?

I had the same problem, 150$ pace setter header gets in the way, I had to remove a bunch of material from the bottom of the manifold and put a well placed dent in the header to get it to fit. RE

How far away from Vista are you rbpowered? my ovens are 5'x5'x6' RE

You may want to check your valve lift and compare it against your Retainer/Valve guide clearance. Ive seen plenty of aftermarket heads that dont have the same guide height all the way across. Also, check to make sure that the valve moves down the guide, you could have siezed the vale in the closed position causing the stud to break.

Agreed, there is no comparison between pressure cast and net forged. Rays Engineering/Volk is the premier Japanese wheel manufacturer, their wheels are worth every penny you spend. The Konigs will be much heavier for the same load rating and you have to run a spacer, not cool. RE

I think Tony D is correct. A step will sometimes be machined into what would normaly be a flat flywheel to cheat old pressure plates, I'm pretty sure all of the flywheels I did for classic Datsun went out with a .025" - .030" step in them. RE

Iv'e used NIC for some custom powders, quality stuff and most importantly they deliver quickly. We use Akzo Nobel for most of our powders, we use their 158c121 acrylic clear on our parts. At 2.0 mills it's as smooth as glass but we still have to wet sand and buff any little dots or dirt that lands in it. How do you plan to shoot the main body of the car? do you have a booth and oven big enough? I wanted to use Akzo's powder primer on my entire car then use liquid paint for the color and clear but it just wasnt realistic for me since we use small batch ovens. RE

Are you using the Tiger Drylac Black chrome? It looks nice in the pictures. I did my Cowl and inspection pannels in Rohm&Haas Solar black, I want to do the hood but it's a little too big for my ovens. RE

Had a CHP Officer light me up as he was coming toward me on a 2 lane road. After an hour of running plates and checking the vin's on our bikes, (3 pre 80's Husqvarnas, one of which was a freshly restored cr250 that he REMOVED all of the paint around the vin on) he gave us a ticket for having a turn signal out on our trailer (which was his stated reason for pulling us over). He also gave us a ticket for the restored Husky not being registered. So again, how can you pull some one over for a light that you can not see from your perspective, and how can you write a ticket for a bike in the bed of the truck?

I know which booth I'm going to right after setup.....

I finally have appropriate wheels for my 70. 17x8 ET5 and 17x8.5 ET3, 19.2 LBS in front and 17.6 in the rear. I could have made them weigh less but I left the pad X-section pretty thick so that I could mill them down and change rims and offsets if I ever get coilovers or fender flares, I’m not racing so a few Lbs is not a huge concern for me. I like the flat black lip, from 20 feet away it makes the car look like it still has a 15” wheel on it. Please don’t hate on the tires, I had a set of 215’s left over from my wife’s 240sx that I am going to use up before moving to a tire more appropriately sized for the wheels. This weekend was the first time I had driven the car in a year (illegally), only 3 more years of back registration to pay off before it’s my DD! RE

These came out of the machine shop today, 17x8 ET4 and 17x8.5 ET6. I'm going to throw some rim parts on them tonight and test fit them, hopefully they fit the way I want them too. I'm thinking Flat Black Rim Parts with Brushed centers.

I really like the custom home depot coolant hoses and plastic fittings!