HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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I believe a marine powerplant manufacturer offered turbocharged LD28 at some point but information is a bit sketchy now.
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Man....nissan should have come up with the color 20 years earlier rather than that bronze they used back then.
Cool thought on keeping with a real nissan color.
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I honestly don't know what is better now.
The 944GTR has the long tubes.
It made 600hp out of 2.5 liters in 1987 for hours on end though IMSA was already working toward sanctioning out turbo cars at that point.
Al Holbert's death put an end to anything more than privateer development.
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Not much left to do on the exterior.
I wish I had one that close to perfect.
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The Ld28 could run into egt trouble with more than 8psi and the stock pump.
I'm not really sure what the power potential with longeivity as a concern is on one but there are a lot of blown head gasket stories on relatively low boost.
Might want to talk to these guys....they have a forum dedicated to the LD28.
http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php?sid=7273971a8cb1168b8abc5d5e5eb1c2fc
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Manual was only available on 1983 but some might have one with a production date before 8/82.
Turbo egr tubes are all the same.....don't rememer if N/A were but most likely.
As far as the FS5w71b tranny from the non-turbos.......it is easily as strong as the borg warner T5 that nissan though they needed.
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Missed the part about the inside of the tires being worn.
If your rear tires are less worn on the inside try swapping back to front and see if that changes things.
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Loose wheel bearings can cause wander as well as a toe out condition.
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Wow! that 318 with L28 is sweet!
If you have some good U-pull yards around, you will find them indespensible when doing research on unusual swaps.
I've actually pulled an engine from one car and suspended it in the engine compartment of another to see if the swap would work.
They look at you funny when you leave covered in dirt and grease but without anything to purchase.
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Ah..........the old "disconnected the coil wire but left the distributor plugged in when priming my new engine thereby sending unburnt fuel/air mixture into the exhaust where it ignited once I cranked it with coil wire connected back up".
The upside is that the girl was too startled to razz you any further.
You didn't even flinch!...I would have jumped a mile.
Did it do this more than once?
If not, what did it do?
I've seen properly timed cars do that.
If you're worried about timing, you unplug the injectors, crank it, and use a timing light to see if cylinder 1 is close to where it should be on the timing marks.
If you do that, be aware that there could be residual fuel in the intake that could cause the engine to possibly start even with injectors unplugged and that just uplugging the spark plug wires could cause high voltage sparks to seek ground through a wire or component....which might damage the ecu.
If it were me, I would crank it again as is and use the timing light to see if it's close and hope it doesn't happen again...........if it came from the intake.
If it came from the exhaust, then you can relax since you won't be worried about blowing a silicone coupler off of a pipe and taking it in the eye.
Don't let that discourage you, you're so close to it running.
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Car is now running on M30 ecu (for high impedence injectors) with low impedance turbo injectors and dropping resistors.
You would think that it would run pig rich but the car runs like it came from the factory with no hint of loading up and fuel mileage is about the same as the 280zx turbo.
I'm very surprised but I guess the ecu is new enough that it can "trim" the fuel a bit but I get no check engine lights and EGR works to satisfy the emissions gestapo.
I cut only the portions of the M30 harness as needed and many portions of it made the trip with no modifications.
This harness used to bolt onto the unibody near the strut but I just moved it from in front of the abs pump to behind, routed it along the firewall and left it such that any engine movement does not cause bending at any 1 point over and over......it moves and flexes in many different places rather than concentrating all bending into that 90 degree curve.
Pic no longer exists but it is of the stock 1981-1982 zx turbo dropping resistor unit and 7 insulated spade connectors plugged into it.Next was how to speedometer that uses a sensor rather than a cable to work with a tranny that only came with a cable.
Luckily, Jatco makes both the current zx turbo 3n71b and a RE4R01 tranny out of a 240sx.........which does have a sensor.
It bolts right in and the 3.9 speedo works..........and is damn close to being perfectly accurate.
Once the 3.54 goes in, I have a gear for the sensor from a Q45 infiniti that I've already tried though I have to clock the offset housing 90 degrees..........or find a housing in the required offset that might not be very common.
Pink gear is what I am currently using but black gear is what will go with the 3.54.
Offset can be seen. -
LOL...........Monzter......I was thinking about that setup in the back of my mind when I posted that and wondering if the m12/13 would show up on this thread.
It seems the designers at that time also did not agree with each other and you can see both schools of thought in the engines from other teams of that same time frame.
Neither school of thought is "wrong".
On the Tag Porsche formula one engine pic below, the tubes might be close to equal length (kind of hard not to be with turbo centrally located) but they surely aren't long or "tuned" like the BMW ones in that the tubes are easily half as long as the bmw tubes and I'm positive that the rev limits are similar between the BMW engine and it's competitor engines shown below.
This is exactly what I was referencing when I made that statement about short length tubes.
The Renault turbo formula one engine.
The honda turbo formula one engine.
I can't find a good pic of the honda header but, from what you can see here, this header is even less ornate than the others.
I'm normally one to disagree with it but only on road race cars where I have plenty of A/B comparison experience.The part "but only on road race cars where I have plenty A/B comparison experience" refereneces IMSA GTO cars since I did state "where I have plenty of A/B comparision experience".
The experience referenced was this porsche 935 in 1986-1988.
Here's a cool history on the car.
http://www.911handbook.com/articles/article_pwgarretson935.html
Funny thing about that car......I was at a u-pull junkyard in daytona 17 years after the last time I saw the car and the cell rang with somebody on the other end asking questions on that car and the later 944gtr which was purchased by the same buyer.
I could hear sports cars racing at daytona speedway a few miles away and immediately realized that the reward of free entry into a cool event (rennsport II) hung in the balance of my next few words.
I said "I can much better answer your questions in person..........if you can get me in." "I'm only 10 minutes away".
20 minutes later, I was answering questions on the 935 and this GTO 944GTR.
The mad scientist looking gesturing guy is Dave Clemm or "Mr. Fabcar".
His concentration is total and nothing kept him from being sidetracked.
I just stayed out his way.
The 944GTR used the long tube philosophy while the 935 used horrible looking pipes that made big power.
An hour later, I was kneeling and sighting down the side of a very dented up old 356 coupe and saw a pair of legs in my peripheral vision come up and said to whoever it was (without looking) "man, did this thing just come out of a barn?" as I stood and turned to address the person standing there.
He said "A chicken coop!.....It came out of a chicken coop!"
It was Seinfeld and I almost couldn't control myself from laughing because he said it just like he would on his show when making a point.
I snapped a pic as he got into the car next to it which is porsche branded car #1.
The dented car next to it also has a roof rack with a spare tire on it.
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Car stereos in the last 10 years have reversed thier thinking on the two power wires.
It used to be that the yellow wire was constant power and skinny while the red wire was thick (carrying the power to run the integrated amp....if equipped) and came on with the key.
More recent car stereos seem to have the constant power wire now as the fat one and the "on with key" wire as more of a trigger to wake up the unit.
If your constant power wire is the thick one, I modify the wire going to the cigarette lighter to be on all the time and take power off of it for the radio since it is strong enough to run a high current item like a lighter.
The reason for this was so I could leave a solar trickle charger in the car when sitting for long periods but you need the lighter to always be on.
It also helps with those lighter plugged aux jump boxes in that you can hook it up and let it transfer a bit of life to the battery without having the key on before you try to start it up.
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The clocking is a work-around that makes it possible to use more than one gear size per pinion housing.
Nissan just has you buy the entire works for each gear ratio.
I'm running that little black gear on the housing the formerly held a larger diameter pink...maybe it's white but stained by atf.
It surely won't mesh unless I clock it 90 degrees......or buy a housing that might not be easy to find.
That is why the original poster had intermittent speedo action....the gear wasn't meshing.
Just for reference, here is one from the FS5R30a pathfinder 2wd tranny.
30mm outside diameter.
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Tell Jimmy Bou that mark from electrodyne says "hi".
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I would take two pieces of very thin stainless sheet sandwiched together, use a hammer to form them over the headers, separate them, place fiberglass between then, rivit them together, and bolt your new shield to the bottom of the intake leaving about 1/4 an inch spacing from the headers.
If you look at dodge viper headers, they have a shield that looks like someone formed it over the headers with a hammer.
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Most emissions states use the newer component to determine the year's standards they will use for testing.
If the engine is newer than the car, they will use the engine year.
If the car is newer than the engine, they will use the car year.
Of course, the technician would first have to be able to discern whether your engine is actually newer than the car and I doubt a non nissan specialist would be able to do that.
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Nissan now sells them with tabs permanently mounted so any "clocking" changes will not take place without a bit of custom work.....they just sell a different one for each application though the gears on 1990 and later (maybe earlier) are removable and the older ones(1984 and older) aren't.
Earlier stuff had just a slot where at washer with a flat side holds it in.
If you just switch cogs, you will run into depth issues whether crushing gears because too deep or no drive to the pinion because it just doesn't touch.
Clocking it is just a workaround to get what you need though I believe nissan sells them with different offset for each gear since I haven't seen one offset other than directly opposite direction from the mounting tab as shown in the pics below.....it's possible but haven't seen it yet.
First pic is the S13 automatic sensor (4.08 with pink gear) on the left and a 1983 maxima automatic (3.54)on the right.
Both the green and black gears have the same amount of teeth and diameter though the sensor on the left came out of the car with the pink one installed......I just put it on top of the black Q45 gear I swapped onto it and I forgot to check the offset of the q45 housing....might do that tomorrow.
Even though it seems the pink gear has a different angle, my green gear'd drive on the right slid into the S13 tranny that the sensor with pink gear came out of and worked without binding or slipping while being clocked the exact same.
The green one is bored dead center with no offset but you can see the offset of one made to work with a larger diameter gear.
In this pic the shaft offset is facing away and you can see that turning it 90 degrees from the other pic would net the same gear depth on the tranny output shaft with the black gear as it would with the pink gear would.....but without the 90 degree change.
Though the pic is not perfectly straight, I can assure you there is only offset on one axis.
From what I saw on manual tranny sensor/drives, it seems the same offset thingy is going on.
In the pics Zedman posted, you can also the same offset scheme going on in the long sensor so we can hope that all nissan transmissions use the same scheme and exploit it.
I should have tried to put the smaller 28mm housing sensor from the q45 or J30 into a FS5W71c tranny since it seems all dimensions that I measured were the same other than offset depending on rear gear ratio.
I'll compare both to the sensor from my FS5R30a manual tonight and measure it.
EDIT: The FS5r30a shorty tranny out of a pathfinder (2wd) that I have has a yellow gear and no offset but it is the same as the long one posted by zedman that has the black gear.
The housing has a 30mm outside diameter for this mechanical drive.
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I was there in 1990-1991
If you saw a L28et with the super rare P99 head, that was an engine I donated along with the grey 1984 300zx turbo slicktop since I figured those guys might want the steel roof.
I recently got into contact with Brian and wish him the best.
If I end up moving back up to DC, I will surely look into doing anything I can to help them out since Brian and his son are pretty much all that is left of the spirit of Datsun Dynamics and I would really like to see them gain back some of the loyal customer base and keep the fire burning.
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I'm doing the opposite in that I am putting an electronic sensor into a tranny that had a cable.
If you look closely at the various sensors and speedo drive pinions, you will see most are offset a bit.
It seems the manual fs5w71c boxes use a drive that is 28mm in diameter and the automatics (3n71b, 4n71b, and RE4R01a) use a 30mm diameter body while the RE4R03a uses a 28mm body.
My speedo drive for a 3.54 280zx turbo 3n71b fits in and meshes into a RE4R01a of a 240sx with no troubles.......of course ratios are off.....and the older drives don't have a replacable gear.
It might be possible that the 28mm "short" sensors are interchangable from automatic to manual but not sure of gear mesh.
In the automatic world, the sensors and speedo cable drives have the shaft offset and It seems that the offset is there so you can use different gear sizes on the same sensor/drive...............but you have to clock it differently.
I tried this by putting a Q45 speedo pinion gear for 3.538 diff. on a sensor for a 240sx which is around 4.08 or so and found that I could make the much smaller diameter gear mesh by clocking it such that the mounting tang was nowhere near where it bolts to the tranny.
In this case, it was 90 degrees different so something between these two should be less and a change outside of these will be more.
The offset coming from a car with the 4.08 is to the extreme least amount of gear mesh depth so I guess the cars with anything higher than that might use a different housijng with more offset to deal with a larger gear.
I'm posting this because these dimensions and clocking may also apply to the mechanical speedo drive pinions..........more later with pics and dimensions.
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Yeah i agree with you. I just have seen some people disagree with it or think its not worth the hassle. To me its no hassle. Just finshed the merge collectors will go and pick some more pipe up today, with luck i may have the manifold close to finished next week.
I'm normally one to disagree with it but only on road race cars where I have plenty of A/B comparison experience.
Off boost response in road race environment is pretty much a non-issue since most engines never come down in rpms outside of where they make good power.
Another down side to longer runners is more piping that will be getting red/white hot under long pulls which means more surface area with which to radiate heat under the hood. (really only an issue when under boost and you're moving anyway so airflow helps).
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Wow!!
I'll bet you were listening to every sound and scanning gauges like crazy on the way out there.
Did you do this without a "safety net"?
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Sounds like one of the left over heads off of Bob Lentz GT2 car of possibly Greg Master's car that was purchased with something like 3 electromotive engines back in 1990.
I remember the engines sitting upstairs at datsun dynamics but I'm not sure what happened to them as Greg's dad flat out liquidated it with zero thinking and a lot of good stuff never made it to the hands of those who could do something with it.
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The two pieces kind of slip into each other once they are lined up.
If you take it apart and get it lined up, you still might have to push them together since I seem to remember then almost snapping together.
L28et into infiniti M30 begins.
in Other vehicles
Posted
My ecu injector driver #4 has gone intermittent after a month of being my daily driver.
It seems the 1981 280zx turbo dropping resisitors don't drop the current enough because adding the 6 ohm resistors to the 2.6 ohm injectors, the ecu sees 8.6 ohms instead of the 12 to 15 ohms the M30 ecu expects.
I'll guess I am running too much current and it's hard on the drivers at high duty cycles.
We'll see if this affects injector opening times and messes up my fueling.
EDIT: Turns out it was just a cold solder joint where the connector meets the board.
Ever since the 1981 280zx turbo, nissan has had connector as well as cold solder and cracked board issues causing intermittence.