jaime240z

I have tried searching but my questions weren't answered. I have a '72 240z and recently purchased a set of GC coil overs with replacement Tokico HP struts. I don't plan on sectioning the struts. The GC instructions are not very detailed and I want to make sure I'm doing this right. Where exactly do I need to cut off the stock spring seat? I don't have the strut housings out yet to minimize down time. Does the threaded sleave just rest on the supplied perch ( once the perch is welded )? Any advice would be great! I don't plan on doing everything myself.I work with a few welders that could weld this for me.[/img]

That looks pretty sweet. I've been looking for an affordable brake upgrade!

Ok cool. I am just wondering. Did you mount the actuator to operate on the vertical or horizontal rod? I'm not sure about the 260s but my car has a horizontal rod from the inside door handle and a vertical rod from the outside door handle. Does it make a difference which one I mount ti to? Thanks.

Has anyone installed power door locks on their 240? I have a '72 and just installed a Viper alarm with all the bells and whistles. I just ordered the lock actuators and relays and I'm wondering if anyone has any pic's or info on where to mount the actuators. Wiring them is pretty straight forward. Thanks in advance for any help.

I have the kit made by flex-a-lite with the probe and adjustable knob. This kit is pretty bad. I would not recommend it. I have to re-adjust the temp. knob every other day. It just won't hold a setting for some reason. However, I've always been pleased with painless products. I've never used their electric fan kit, but I would buy their's over the flex-a-lite kit. Just my $.02

Hey Brad, I noticed you put Pioneer here I come. I must say, I am in the middle of installing all Pioneer gear in my Z. I have the deck (p-93300) and 12 disc changer and 3-way 6x9 speakers in so far and I coulnd't be happier. The deck and changer NEVER skip and my ride is pretty rough. The 6x9s sound good running off the deck for now and I have a pair of 5.25 components that I need to some how mount in the front kick panels. I also have an amp on the way and I plan on using a Pioneer 12 in. sub in the near future. The Pioneer stuff sounds and looks sweet. I highly recommend it!!!

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I figured it might be a personal preference between the 3.54 and 3.70. I think I'll track down a 3.70 and keep it on hand in case the 3.54 decides to go.

What gear ratio is everyone using with their T56 trans? I plan on using a 95-97 T56 with a 350-400 hp SBC. I have an R200 now but I plan on either rebuilding or replacing it soon. What gear ratio do you guys recommend?

I'm in the middle of the same project. I've got 5 1/4 components for the front, 6x9's in the rear and a sub in the spare tire well. Nullbound, how did you make your sub box. Is it a full box or is it just the top piece where the subs srew on to? Also are those two 10 in. or 12 in subwoofers? I plan on making a "false floor" on the rear deck to allow plenty of mounting surface for amplifiers. Then I'm going to re-carpet the entire deck to cover the amps/subs for regular driving. The kick panels are going to be a challenge. I would love to see someone fit an 8 in speaker down there. I wish more manufacterers made more parts for our Z cars. I'm in the middle of installing a Viper alarm system too. I bought it on ebay for cheap and I was planning on paying someone to install it but everyone told me they will only install what they sell. So now I'm stuck with a whole lot if installing to do as well. Not to mention the cd receiver and 12 disc changer I installed last weekend......And all of it was bought on ebay at prices to good to pass up.

Cool feedback, guys. I also did the basic H4 swap on my 240z. They were brighter right off the bat, but I never got around to installing the relays. I'm sure that would have helped get more juice to the lamps. I just put standard halogens back in and, well, they suck! The H4 lamps that I bought are 7" round with a 2.5" projector lens. Not the typical reflector type lens. I want to put them back in, with relays, and high powered Xenon bulbs. I was wondering if anyone can recommend a brand for the HID conversion. The ones I'm looking at come with Hella parts and your choice of bulb ratings (5200K, 7000K, etc.) I think I'll get them in a few months. I post the results. Until then I've got some wiring to do.

I would fight it and hope that the officer doesn't show up. That's about the only chance you have of getting off. If he does show up, you might as well starting filling out the check so you can sign it when the judge tells you the $ amount. These are words of experience ,

I'm looking at a few HID kits on ebay and was wondering if anyone has done one. There's one seller in particular that seems to have some pretty quality stuff. I read through all his feedback and it seems legit. Just wondering about the install. Seems pretty straght fowrward. I guess I just need someone to talk me into spending money on something I don't really need. BTW: my car is a'72 240 with regular headlights. I had the H-4's in but I removed them. If I do end up doing this swap I will, of course, need to go with the H-4's again. Thanks. Jaime

yeah, that guy RULEZZZ!!!!

I don't remember what the stock offset is, but I can tell you that Racing Hart will custom make wheels for early 240z's. 19's are about $600 ea. for the 3-piece. They're made to fit the specific vehicle so they shouldn't rub as long as you use an allowable tire. Also, it'll take them a few months to get here from Japan. That would be without the need of spacers or adapters.

I think the years are 75-78 Z's. Like Tomahawk said, get that JTR manual. Then you'll need the diff. and mustache bar. From there, it's as easy as unbolting the old one, and bolting the new one in! With the right tools and a friend, it should take 2-3 hours or so....? (note: this time may vary depending on beer consumption and "significant-other" interference)

I have used ground-controls on my last two cars (yeah, ricers-but that's the past ) I liked them, they rode good for being lowered. I think the Eibach springs contributed the most to that. Note that Ross and others on hybridz sell coil-overs that also come with Eibach springs. I think this is one of the more important components of these kits. I'm not sure that Tein or other suppliers even make kits for the early Z's but you're probably paying alot in importing costs if these are JDM parts. Ground-controls are made in cali. and suppliers on this web-site are located in N. america as well. Plus these guys pretty much specialize in Z cars. ( ground-control has a whole section on their web-site about auto-xing Z's as well). Jaime

YES! And great job on the new web site! If you haven't seen it yet, Check It Out!

I just did the same swap on my '72. All I used was the R-200 and corresponding must. bar. I used the original crossmember. I also replaced the bushings with Energy Susp. units. Also, if you're planning on changing the bushings to the rear control arms this would be a good time. You'll have them half way off for the swap. As far as lifting and lowering the diff. I used a regular floor jack with no special adapters. I was able to manage by myself, but a partner would've been very helpful for that part. Remeber to use jack stands since the whole rear suspension will be pretty much taken apart. And remember to turn the front diff. mount 180 deg. Hope this helps. Jaime

I am also interested in the answer to this question. I've seen a few pictures of hybridz on this site with cowl induction hoods, but which brand is most recommended?

Food for thought. I also went through what you are going through. I got frustrated and mad because of the wheel options available for early Z cars. I was very close to just ordering a set of custom made wheels and have them imported for over $2500. But then I sat back a moment and thought about it, looked at my wallet, tought about it some more, looked at my wallet again... You get the picture. Anyways, I ended up buying the adapters from Ross. They are great quality and you can use any style FWD wheels you want. And get this, they fit in the fender wells better than stock wheels. Not to mention Ross is a specialty Z guy (along with other vendors on this site) so he knows Z cars well. He also provides great info. and great customers service. To sum it up, $200 or so isn't a bad deal for these adapters. And once you're able to bolt up some "ricer" wheels or whatever wheels you want on your Z I think you'll agree. my $ .02 Jaime

In case anyone is interested: The hub adapter I have is the right one. Apparently the "C" in 3503C is molded in the part by Momo to respresent "center". I called Momo USA on this one. Why they would need it to be marked center, I don't know. Anyways I bolted it up today and it fits good. Wow, my turn signals even cancel again. ( damn cheap Grant adapter ) AND, my Momo pedals came to my door today, too. It was a good day! Thanks for the help, Dan. Jaime

AH yes! months. I've been waiting for this damn adapter for a while. Not to mention the steering wheel. Oh did I mention the pedals have been on back order too. They're supposed to be in this week, but we'll see about that. I thought I had finally found the right steering wheel on ebay but it turns out the seller just hasn't updated the picture. DAMN! Then I found a used one. The right one! But the seller has a few neg. comments about taking money but not delivering. DAMN! So I said screw it! I bid on the used one. I figured it's the only way I'm going to get what I want. But I e-mailed him and said I'll buy it from you. But you have some bad comments under your belt. So send it COD and I'll pay you extra when it gets here and everyone's happy. I doubt it'll work but it's worth a try! About the hub, I think I'll check with Custom Auto and see if they have the wheel I want and I'll run my little question by them tomorrow, too. Maybe I'll get lucky, who knows? Thanks for the help, Dan. Jaime

Dan, What you're saying about the pins sounds right. I don't jave a dig. camera so I can't provide pics right away. I was just out in the garage and I tried to swap the Momo hub in for the Grant hub. The grant hub also has the pins for the T/S cancel but it slides onto the spline very easily ( maybe because it's worn ) But the Momo hub doesn't go onto the spline all the way ( maybe because it's the wrong one? ) I stopped trying to force it on there so I could still return it undamaged in case it's wrong. I can tell you this much though, there is a part # stamped on the Momo hub that reads 3503 C .However on the box it only has a serial # followed by 3503. The part number it stamped on the hub edge near where it bolts to the steering column. Also after doing some research on the net ( man I love it ) I found out that Momo does make hub kits with part #'s followed by a letter ( A, B or C) Apparently the early Z's require 3503A. The one I have looks like a close fit but I think I'll still return it just in case. Jaime

Thanks, Dan. Do you remember if your Momo hub had two pins that go into the steering column along with the center spline piece? Mine does, but the Grant adapter has the center spline piece and three small bolts that secure everything? I don't know if that makes any sence but they are so different it would make sence if you had them both in front of you. Anyways, thanks for the info. I'm going to get in contact with as many dealers as I can tomorrow. Apparently Momo changed the design on the steering wheel I ordered. I got the Champion but when it came in the mail the spokes are now darker silver and the horn button and logo are totally different. Not a big deal but the shade of silver doesn't match anything in my car. I'm going to try to hunt down one of the old design models. I know picky, picky, but this is MY Z we're talking here here. ( haha ) Jaime