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jaime240z

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Everything posted by jaime240z

  1. Has anyone installed power door lock actuators on their 240z? Where would you mount the anctautor? Verticaly or horizontal? I have the actuators and relay that will plug into my Viper alarm. If anyone has pics of their install that would be sweet! 8) I've seen inside the door panels and it looks like it's going to be a tight fit but I'm sure it's possible. Thanks in advance!
  2. I say go with the toyota v6 and don't forget the TRD supercharger :flamedevil:
  3. BigPhil, I think the project looks sweet! Looks like you've put in a lot off work, from the stereo to the body mods. I especially like the Kenisis wheels and the gas door. Q: How did you get the gas door flush? And were you able to find a gas cap that fits behind it
  4. That sounds familiar. BTW what year is your car? Does this help?: http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23529
  5. The pics look good! I'm planning on going to the Cherries jubilee! I'll keep an eye out for your Z. I'd love to see it in person. Great work!
  6. with the 2 5/8" guages I removed the plastic bezels from the stock guages and used them with the autometers. I repainted them black, sealed them to the dash, and then mounted the autometers behind them nice and tight. It made a very nice fit and there was no extra charge for the pieces.
  7. HOw did you wire up the starter button? I'm trying to install a pushbutton on my 240Z and I'm interested in how to wire it up. Thanks.
  8. I like the guy who said "neons have something for everyone .....blabla....sorta sporty looks" I think a Z06 is a WHOLE lot more than "sorta sporty"!
  9. Hahaha!!!! I saw one of those today on a tercel WITH the optional light!
  10. See if this works: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23529
  11. I recently had the same problem. Look in the Troubleshooting Category for my thread. I think the title was Car won't start. Help with parts ID. I'll try to link it here.....
  12. Thanks Ross. Ihad also recently inquired about the rear disc kit for my Z. I will definitely be placing an order in the near future for that! 8)
  13. That's retarded ............................I'm speachless
  14. Ok thanks! I received the rubber o rings from GC that were missing from my kit. That answers some of my Q's. Also, when you remove the stock spring perch from the strut housing, are you supposed to cut all the way through the tube..? ..or just cut the perch. I've seen pics of it done both ways... BTW: I'm not going to section. Thanks!
  15. OK, OK. Here's my progress. I opened up the steering cover ( the black plastic pieces areound the steering) to have EZ access to the lock cylinder and harness. I tied in a jumper to the blk/ylw wire on the ignition switch harness. I tried to start the car and...nothing! I left the key in the ON position and the touched the jumper to a 12v source on the fuse block and VROOOOM It started right up! Now it seems to almost always start on the forst try. Even without the jumper wire..... So I'm not sure if the lock is tweeked or the connector on the harness...? I thought about buying a cool push button starter. I think that might do the trick. It's alot cheaper than the $100+ lock cylinder. I remember seeing a pic on Tim240z's website of a sweet button starter mounted in a Z dash. I'm going to do some research and follow through with this. Thanks guys for the help and info. I was starting to get frustrated but I see the light now. Luckily the Z is not my main source of trans. 8)
  16. Sorry! I fell asleep after posting and I've been busy with my Z car lately I think I've got it running consistently now. Maybe a few more things and it'l be back on the road!
  17. Ding, ding, ding. I think I've figured it out and Spirit mentioned it days ago. I ested the acc relay and everything seemed to work OK. I tested the leads with the key in different positions. Seem good. I traced out all the wiring from the battery to the starter and to the ignition switch. The ignition switch on the back of the keylock cylinder is new so I figured that was doing its job. Then I tester the leads on the harness behind the ignition switch. It had the constant power ( wht/red, if I remember correctly) and the acc leads got power with the key in the acc position. The only lead not getting power was the one going to the starter with the key in the start postion. POS! I was pissed I had wasted so much time trying to figure this out and I was happy I had found out ( maybe) what was wrong. So now my focus is on the ignition lock. Not the small module that the harness plugs into, but the actual key lock cylinder. The only other test I could think of was to "tap" the lock cylinder with a hammer to see if that would "fix" the problem. And holy carp IT STARTED. It started right up on the first try like my car was saying FINALLY you dumb-ass. Anyways, I let the car warm up at idle. sounded good except for a header leak. I then shut the motor and waited a minute...tried to start it again and NOTHING! I tried tapping the lock cylinder again but this time I wasn't so lucky. Well I'm 95% sure it's the ignition lock. Now, has anyone else experienced a similar problem...? Did replacing the ignition lock do the trick? I looked up prices in the MSA and VB cats and this piece is around $100. I know used ones are less but in this case I want a new part. However I don't want to fork over the money unless I'm positive that's the problem. Can anyone out there help with this.....please.....
  18. I did an R-200 swap last year on my 72 240 and I must say it was pretty straight forward. All I got was the diff. and mustache bar. I already had the poly bushings from the master kit which I recommend doing while the stuff is out. You need to turn the front diff mount 180 degrees to work. I'm not sure what year your car is so keep in mind this was on a '72.
  19. Nice pics. Man I love the smell of clear coat!
  20. Yeah I propped thwire up to see if it would work with the stock eng and 5 speed but it didn't work too well in the winter. The manual choke on my 72 doesn't help the cause at all. Oh well, at least that feature is there if I ever go EFI. 8) That reminds me, I still need to instal the door lock actuators! Forrest, does your Z have power door locks? If not you can get the actuators for $5 each and wire them to a relay. Your alarm should have a plug tto send the open/close signal to a solenoid ( dei part #451M ) I haven't got a chance to look in the door to see where I will mount the actuator though...just a thought...
  21. Hey that's sweet! What year is your car? Is it autamtic and EFI? I have the same feature on my alarm but ti's not hooked up because of no Auto. or EFI. I figures I'd get an alarm with that option just incase an LT1 or LS1 ever snuck into my engine compartment 8)
  22. Yup! I got me one of them multimeters and two wiring diagrams for the Z incase I need to cross reference. Every circuit on the fuse block was getting 12.5 volts EXCEPT for the Ignition fuse. I still haven't gone out to the garage today. Too many other honey-do's today. I'll keep the post updated.
  23. Thanks Spirit. What you said makes sense. If the relay is clicking that means it is possible it's doing its job internally. I think I'll try your technique today. I'm pretty sure I can get the cover off the relay. Here goes. nuthin'
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