jaime240z

I need some help please. I'm having problems with the drivers side door lock. the passenger side works cherry but the drivers side seems to be loose or worn out? Every time i close the door the lock pull falls by itself and locks the door. I thought the problem may be a faulty door lock so I switched it with the pass. side door lock. No luck- the pass. side still works cherry and the drivers side still feels loose and won't stay in the "unlock" position. Does anyone know what is causing this? Has anyone else had this problem? It isn't the door lock itself because I isolated that and the problem still occurs. I hope I don't have to buy a whole new door mechanism. MSA seems to have them but I'd rather spend the $ on something else. Any feed back is greatly appreciated. I really need to get this fixed ASAP since I almost got locked IN and OUT of my car this past weekend. Thanks in advance. -JAIME

that's about as dumb as they make 'em. I bet he tried the leather conditioner on his ass and sprayed some windex directly on this eye balls! Good thing nobody got hurt.

Damn! Them's some fightin words. I can't wait to see the video clip to this one. I wish I were closer to see it in person!

hahaha I'm gonna go clean my.......uh round wheel thingies. Get to work

Scott, I think you might be referring to my post under the "rims" thread. I was just-a joking with the bling-bling. Like kid-vid says it just means something shiny 'n fancy. I was just trying to get a laugh out of the bunch as a dispute over the true definitions of "wheels" and "rims" was unravelling. So the next time you hear a pimp or drugdealer (as these are usually the only types using this phrase) talking about bling-bling, rest assured thay are talking about some sort of jewelery or 22" gold plated wheels (or is it rims) Sorry about the sarcasim or any confusion my humor may have caused. Jaime

ok so then what's bling-bling. Is that only for gold teeth? j/k

Where would be a good place? quality,price warranty?

hahaha. who's laughing now.....

Grog, cool web site. Love the shaker hood!

I can't say on a v8 (I still have the six) but my exhaust has both a glasspack and flowmaster. I put a header, 2 1/2" pipe and muffler at first But it was too loud for my liking. After installing the glasspack under the driver's seat area, the exhaust noise really calmed down. Long rides in the z are now enjoyable. Only a little power loss was noticable, but not much.

Cool. I hadn't seen a sbc stuffed into one of those. That thing must haul butt.

On my 240 I installed the elec. ignition system made by Crane Cams (hi-6S and the XR3000) I removed the resistor and the ignition works great. If you ever go back to points be sure to replace the resistor.

Another idea- instead of using header wrap- try wrapping your wiring and brake lines with a reflective heat jacket. You can find these in jeg's and summit catalogs. That way you don't risk damaging your headers. But I think coating the headers might be the best solution, however the most $.

I bought my 72 240z for $500 in 2000. It has very little rust, a 5-speed, complete interior, curr. tags, and it ran good. It had a fuel leak ( oh yeah, it also came with dual webbers) I've been driving it pretty much everyday since I bought it with very little demand from the car. I'm confident this car is solid and ready for some real mods. My opinion is to try autotrader.com and do a search under collector cars in your area. I'm sure you could find a good project car and maybe even one that is in pretty descent shape for that price range. Good Luck

Did you remember to bleed all four corners? Also new or at least nearly new rotors should be used with the toyo calipers because of minimun clearance issues.

I think your prices are about right, Ed. I've been weighing out the pro's and prices to doing the conversion. I've already got lowering spring with new stock rep. struts, susp./tech. sway bar set, energy bush. through the whole car. I've decided I might as well spend a little more money now than want to do it all over again in 6 months. IMO anyways.

Ed, I don't have the msa springs but I'm also planning to use 17" wheels. I've learned that with coil-overs you will be able to use wider wheels (8 or 9" wide instead of 7")Is the extra inch or two width worth it? I'm leaning to yes.

Mike, just curious, about how much for ground control w/ tokico 5-way adj?

Sweet! Thanks for the wiring diagram

well according to the JTR manual "the (toyota) caliper sticks out the same as the Datsun caliper, so it will not affect wheel clearance." That is assuming your current wheels are the same dimensions as stock. Hope this helps.

Thanks Mike. I guess I should wait until the entire system is installed and worry about neg camber later. If tire wear isn't too bad I might not need either (plates,bushings)

Thanks Lone. Sounds like this hand-me-down part is going to out perform my $100 flex-a-lite counterpart.

I had a similar problem with my 240. It started slow and eventually got really bad. I didn't think it was a ground because I drove the car for a year with no problems. It turned out being a bad alternator that was slowly going out. Check the obvious stuff first ( batt. cables, Alt belt tension) otherwise get your alt tested and volt. regulator if applicable)

Thanks for the info guys. Anyone here have pros/cons on the camber plates like the ones ground control sells for the z. I'm trying to plan a suspension upgrade and I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Any info would be great.

That's great info. How are these supposed to be wired in the z car. I have a 2 speed fan but have not installed it yet. I'm wondering how you guys wired in the 2 speeds?