jaime240z

Point taken Spirit! BTW I actually have been laid up in bed and I know exactly how my Z cars feels. Only it's a few years older than me! Well I hope I can fix this glitch soon.

Get 5 shells and do all of 'em. And please post some pics J/K my opinion is biased since I prefer Gm perf. parts so I would say stick with the SBC and manual gear box! And save the rotary for a 510 project.... oh no..my secret is out...

Well I know this is going to be a big surprise. I searched 4 local part pullers in the area and...no Z cars! Which means no replacement relay..which means dead Z Spotfitz. I think I will trace out the wiring tomorrow and see if I missed anything the first time around. I'm skeptical though beacuse the car was running when I parked it 3 months ago. this has been a little problem that got worse with time and now it's finally broken all the way. That's why I'm thinking it's going to be a switch or relay, as opposed to connections. But who know...? nno really, who knows? Anyone..? Oh well I didn't get out the the garage today because it was like200 deg. out there. Matbe tomorrow will be a little more productive. I really miss my Z. Even though my truck has A/c and the Z doesn't. A weekend cruise in the primred beast would be worth a little sweat though...

Yes REAL HID costs Big $$$. but I don't think it's nearly impossible to do on an early Z especially considering the kind of swaps that are talked about on this website. True, the auction mentioned on this thread does NOT supply a true HID conversion. But for the price, that kit would be a decent upgrage from the old halogen lights originally on our cars. I did a similar H4 ( hella ) swap on my 240 and it made a big difference in visibilty at night. You should definitley upgrade the wiring harness though. I noticed my headlight switch got VERY HOT ( near the steering column ) before I upgraded the wiring with the H4 conv. I know Pete's website has good info on this method. I know because I pretty much copied what he did and it made the H4s even brighter. If you're unsure about wiring I've got an APC wiring upgrade kit from Jeg's brand new in the package that I would be willing to get rid of. It's specially designed for this appliaction to be used with an H4 conv. I never used it because I ended up using Pete's method, but it is perfect for someone who doesn't want to get too involved with wiring, etc. The relays are already wired in with the kit. It's as close to plug and play as you can get with this. Also, I noticed the kit on ebay has TINTED blue bulbs. Sometime people think these bulbs look like HID with that pure blueish/purpleish light emitted from high end luxury cars. Well the "tinted" bulbs won't look quite the same as a true HID kit. So if cops in your area are looking out for anything illegal on your car, ( and in Cal. they usually are ) your blue headlights will stck out like a sore thumb at night. As for true HID kits. I've noticed alot of these kits on ebay as well and many of them seem poorly designed. Beware of these if you're looking to buy. I would stick with brand names only ie HELLA or Philips. Alot of these kits use universla bulbs with glued on adapters so they "fit" your car. These usually suck because they change the way the bulb is positioned in the housing, thus giving off the wrong beam pattern, thus not giving you the full amount of light reflection from your lamps. This could mean dim HIDs or very bright ones, blinding oncoming traffic ( and cops). And yes I am planning on doing HIDs on my 240 someday. I'll be sure to documant and post!

I just bought the Wilwood valve! Found it on ebay with free S&H! Here's the link if anyone is interested: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2934061693&category=1467&rd=1

OK thanks! Boy, I sure hope this works.....

Carl, that problem you had sounds too familiar. I gat all those same new parts too with similar results. I found that relay in my chilton's manual. It's labeled as the accessory relay located near the pass kick panel (inside). It has four wires on it blu/red wht/red red/blu & blk. I don't know if the acc. relay is the actual problem. It's the only thing I hear clicking when I try to start the car though. Oh yeah, I also replaced the ignition switch thinking that was it. IT WASN"T Alternator and voltage regulator were replaced recently too. Oh yeah my car is a '72 240Z with a 5 speed. I did learn somthing new though: On the fuse box, with the key in th ON position, when all the other circuits show 12.5 volts, the IGNITION curcuit only shows around 6 volts ( the circuit on the left column, middle fuse ) I'm not sure what's causing this but that's probably a good clue..... Any electrical gurus out there got any ideas about this I'm going to try to scrounge up some acc relays from parts yards ( hopefully ) and see what happens.

Yup, I did that. Actually I bought new batt. cables with the battery and cleaned the connections at that time too. I also double checked the cables/connections/ and grounds today but that didn't change anything. One thing did happen though. It happened a couple of hours after checking that stuff so I don't think the cables etc was the problem. The engine tried to turn over once. But it was brief and it didn't last the whole time I had the key in the start position...And it never did it again all. night. Battery is holding 12v. cables and connections seem to be good. As far as I know the starter solenoid is good. Checked the fusible links just for kicks...and nothing...? Does anyone know more about this acc relay? I have a hunch that's what it might be. I wasn't able to find one in the MSA or VB catalogs so I'm going to try to find a used one . Or maybe I'll call Nissan tomorrow. I'd hate to spend big $$ on a rare part and not need it though..

Nice link Adam. Is that your convert. Z? That lloks Bad A$$

Right on! Thanks for the info. I guess my main concern was that this be the right part # for the Z car. But I guess you have to fab. it up so I'm just going to go for it. I also plan on upgrading the stack Z brakes as mine need improvement. Il ike the idea of the flex hoses. It probably made the install a bit easier! Thanks!

OK I think I figured out what part that is. Accesory relay is what I'm thinking. However I still have the problem. 13v and no start. Only clicking from the acc relay. I don't remember it doing that before I parked it, but then again there was engine noise involved back then so who knows? BTW. Before I parked it I had the starter and soleniod tested at 2 different parts stores and they both said the parts were good. I was having a similar problem at the time that I now think is related to this. However when I had the parts tested I learned that I needed a new battery, which is where the Optima comes into play. The new battery seemed to fix the problem 6 months ago but the problem has popped up again and this time I'm stumped.

Good post. i was trying to figure out how to post that big enough to view the text. Sweet job!

Ok I haven't driven my 240 in a few months. It has a near new ( 6 mos) Optima red top battery. I went out to try to start it today and all I got was clicking from the starter solenoid..? OK I figured the battery was dead. I checked it and it was a LITTLE low ( 10volts or so ) but not dead. So I set it on the charger and let it simmer.. hours later voltage is OK. I checked all the circuits and everything is getting a good 13 volts. I go to start it and..... nothing! The starter isn't even clicking any more. I do hear a new clicking sound from inside the car. I traced it down to a relay of some sort near the pass. side kick panel. It looks like an original piece with a multi wire harness plug. Does anyone what this piece is? It's definitley clicking when I try to turn the motor and I'm thinking this is what is giving me grief! I looked in my Chilton's manual as well as VB and MSA catalogs to see if I could ID this part. Has anyone esle had problems with this piece? I'm trying to figure out how to test it but I'm not an elect. wizard so I'm thinking I should just replace it.....if I even knew what it is. I think I'm going to be dumpster diving at the local yards real soon. Any help would be great! Thanks in advance.

I agree with Carl! You can't polish a turd

Hey all I see is red Xs too. Why can't these pics be viewed...? Mike I found a copy of a Ground Control installation sheet. I can e-mail it to you if you like. It's kind of vague but it does provide a picture. I'm still unsure about a few things but I haven't even taken the old stuff off the car yet. I'm hoping once I see everything in front of me it will majke more sense. What gets me is how the threaded sleeve is just supposed to "sit" on the perch with no welding...? I guess it's just held on by compression of the unit....?

Wgaz, who did you get your T56 from on ebay? I've been looking at a couple of retailers on there but I was unsure about the quality of them. Any recommendations? Thanks.

I would be interested in this too. I have had coil-overs on my last cars but I was young enough to pay someone to do it. Now I'm ready to install a set on my Z car and would like more info as well!

Oops! That's right Doug. I've been meaning to do that. Thanks!

Thanks guys! I wanted to be sure the fitting sizes would work with my 240z but I guess it will take some custom work to plumb it right.

Well if you happen to be in Monterrey on Sept. 12-14 you're in for a pleasant surprise. The Cherries Jubilee ( hot rod and custom ) Car Show is going on that weekend. It's a pretty sweet event unlike anyother I've ever been to. My gf and I stumbled upon it last year on a weekend get-away to Monterrey. It wasn't like your typical Good Guy's event or Honduh hang out. Just rows and rows of sweet rods ( i even saw a few Zs there ) lined up from Monterrey to Pacific Grove. Everybody was really cool and they have a Big Fat ( mature crowd ) cruise around town. If you or anyone on this site is in the area that weekend I highly recommend checking it out!

I am wondering what F/R brake proportioning valve everyone is using. Right now my 240z brakes are stock but I plan on using MM rear disc conversion along with 4 piston claipers up front. Will this Wilwood item work?: Valves weigh only 8 ounces, are black anodize finished and have two .25†side mounting holes spaced 1.00†apart. Standard in and out ports are 1/8-27 NPT. Knurled knob with fine thread tuning provides precise pressure adjustment. Used for street rods, pro series racing and off road vehicles. DESCRIPTION PART NO. Knob style proportioning valve 260-2220 Any help would be great. Thanks!

FYI: The Tokicos I recently bought appear to have a manufacture date on the box 8) I've had a bad experience with Konis too. The set on my last car seemed to last less than a year...Maybe I was a victim of the same thing.....

Hey Tim, what did you think of the Precision kit? I'm going to need a kit soon and I'm wondering which on is good?

Yes, I agree with racerx. There are a few different ways to do this. You can buy jars of silver, gold, and colored flakes from a reputable auto paint supply store. They cabe added to the base or clear. And like racerx said, definitely do a test panel and remember that it will look different when your WHOLE car is covered. I don't think the "bass boat" paint job looks very good on a Z. Also, be sure to premix enough paint/flake to do the whole car so you get an even amout through the whole process.

Sweet carbon fiber dash! How much do those puppies cost?