dmyntti

One way you could tell depending on the type of crank used is: Look for a 400 style balancer and flywheel. The 400 crank requires external balancing where the 350 was internally balanced. Most 383 will have the externally balanced crank but there are some 383 crank that are internally balanced so if you have the 350 style balancer and flywheel there is still a chance it is a 383. If you don't mind taking it apart you could measure the piston stroke and compare it to a 400. Just a few thoughts, someone else may have a better idea though.

I can let you store a car at my house but I do not currently have space in the garage. I am buying a new place with a barn and may be able to store yours inside for a little while depending on timing.

I live in Ohio as well and have looked into this before. You could get a cheap plane ticket down there and rent a Uhaul and trailer and tow it back or rent a Uhaul truck locally and drive down with your trailer. If I weren't so busy I might do it for the money but I am too busy at the moment. I live in Newark (near Columbus). If you need a place to store it for a little while I can probably help you out with that.

Welcome Aboard, it is nice to have another Ohio member. Check the events forum to see info about the Heartland Z meet planned for August. Now for your questions. You will not want to use the stock 5 speed in your car as it will not hold up and is not easily adapted to V8. If you want a manual you will need either a T-5 from a Camaro or a T-56 six speed. For the 700R4 or 200R4 you just need to run the cooler lines to the radiator (which you will need to replace) and wire up the torque convertor clutch solenoid (easy). Most likely your differential is an R180 in which case you will need to upgrade it to a R200 or R2230 from one of the later cars. The R200 is a bolt in if you get the right model and also get the mustache bar.

If the ground side of the coil is switching then it appears that the Pentronics unit is working. If the coil ground is switching then the coil should fire. I think your problem is in the secondarys. There are two psooibilities that I can think of. Either the coil is bad or you are not getting the ground through the secondaries. You could have the Pentronics clocked so that the coil tries to fire when the rotor isn't lined up (unlikely) or maybe the plug gap is to much for the coil to fire accross. My suggestion is to try another coil. Also look at the rotor and see if the metal tab on top is sticking up enough to make contact with the terminal on the cap.

Just a wild thought here. Check to see if the distributor itself is grounded. As you mentioned the Pentronics grounds through the distributor housing. With the gesket under the distributor maybe your not getting a good ground through the clamp bolt (paint) or shaft (oil). Just a wild guess. If you have ground and still no spark try to determine if the ground side of the coil is switching. If working properly the negative side of the coil should go from +12 to ground while cranking. If this is happening and still no spark try the secondary side most likely the coil.

Scottie, Thanks for the info. I will post pictures of this if I decide to go ahead and do it.

I will be using a 700R4 transmission. The LT1 should be quite happy with a 3.08 gear ratio as this is an optional ratio for the Corvette with an Automatic, some came with 2.59 ratio andt he Corvette tires are about the same diameter as everyone is running on their Z's. I do intend to drag race this car some probably with drag radials or slicks but I do not anticipate getting below the twelves. If I can get the rear setup like I want then I will do a similiar conversion on the front with the Corvette front wheel bearings and brakes. I will be using an adjustable proportioning valve. I have a buddy that has a machine shop willing to do the work for me and I have a complete set of struts on a parts car. I just want opinions before I buy a Corvette rear end.

If I go with an R230 conversion wouldn't I still have a weak point at the 240z Stub axle? I have also had a difficult time finding a LSD R200 or R230 with a decent gear ratio. If I went with the Corvette rear I could get a 3.08 gear ratio that would be good for my drive to work (65 miles each way). Another benefit of the Vette stuff is the large disc brakes and five lug wheels. I know I can achieve my goals with the Datsun parts if I can find them but I think it is going to be pricy compared to the Vette stuff. Beside's I like to be different (read: makes things difficult). 8)

I want LSD and a taller ratio for highway driving. My car will be a daily driver with some drag racing on weekends. I do not want flairs and after reading your writeup I do realize I can not keep the whole Corvette rear suspension. I think that what I am trying to do would eliminate the weak points in the rear end and make my drivetrain fairly bulletproof.

I was thinking the C4 because it has a bolt on wheel bearing that should be easier to attach and the caliper bracket appears to bolt in with the same bolts.

Bump

You would want to get the pedal and linkage parts from another Z car. Most of them were manuals so the parts should be easy to find. Post in the parts for sale forum and you should be able to get the parts. I have the parts on a parts car but I live in Ohio. The five speed came out of the later cars. I do not know if the clutch linkage from the newer cars will work with the 240 though.

Yeah, I saw this writeup on Scottie's page. This is why I am not intending to install the entire rearend and am going to keep the Datsun suspension. It is a very good write up though and very informative.

I am considering having a set of Z struts modified to accept a stock 84-96 Corette rear wheel bearing assembly. These bolt on with three bolts and have a splined hole through the middle. I would use this with the Corvette brakes and the Corvette Differential. The half shafts would have to be built with a slip joint in the middle like the Datsun shafts. I was thinking these could be adapted from some front drive shafts off of 4x4 trucks cut down to length. I do not have the Corvette rearend yet but was wondering what you guys think. Thanks, Don

Anyone have one of these running yet. I am very interested in building one but would like to hear some unbiased opinions about it. Is it reliable and how hard is it to build and set up.

I looked at UTI when I graduated High school. They have a good program and are pretty well thought of in the industry (this is very important). You might visist some fo the dealerships in your area and ask what they think of the school. It is them that will be hiring mechanics out of the colleges and this should give you an idea of employability. I personnally would have gone to UTI except that I decided I wanted a four year Automotive service management program. I went to Ferris State University in Michigan (another good school). Unfortunately I found out I have arthritis in my upperback and have a hard time working under a lift. My Autoservice degree still got me in the door at a small engineering firm and I ended up being a design engineer for natural gas compressors. I left that company to go to a large construction company owed by the same owner. I am now the IT administrator (odd for a mechanic huh). You never know where things will lead, life is funny. I do make more money now than I could as a mechanic or any of the other degrees I was considering so the schooling was definately worth it. Besides that I make lots of money on the side working on other peoples cars. Sorry for rambling, and good luck I think you would be happy with UTI it looks very impressive. You never know where it will lead.

We need to know more specifics on the engine. A 650 cfm should be good for a mild 350. IMO An 850cfm seems awfully big unless it has trick heads, intake and cam in it.

Judging by the distributor location and the factory hood latch. I would say that is in the Scarab/Hooker position.

Thanks again for the info. I will have to decide about the headers. I really want long tube tuned headers but those do hang awfully low. I may be able to get away with it as I do not plan on lowering the front of the car much (maybe 1")

Thanks for the info. Man I love this site. I now have a good plan for my exhaust system which is the last issue in the planning stage.

dewzenol Thanks for the info. I think those are what I need. I will have to look into knock sensor relocation. I think it has been discussed on this board. If not I will check some Camaro and Corvette boards. Thanks again

dewzenol Where did those headers in the second link come from. If they fit well for an LT1 in the JTR position, I would be really interested in getting them. Thanks

I agree with zfan. You need a fairly thick bead os silicone on the block as there will be a gap between the intake and the block. Also be careful when dropping the manifold in place, it is hard to put straight down without the intake scraping some of the silicone off of the block. I have heard of people sealing an end gasket intake leak by cleaning the area and laying a bead of silicone over the area without removing the intake. This would not be my preferred method but if it saves removing the intake again it might be worth a try. Just clean the area good first. There really isn't much pressure trying to cause a leak in this area, it is just a hard place to seal.

Possibly bad rubber brake lines. I have seen the rubber brake hoses get spongy and balloon to cause a soft pedal. It does not take much expansion to really screw up the brake feel. Also check that the calipers are moving OKon their sliders. This could cause both the squeak and the funny pedal.