dmyntti

billy383z I remembered were I read about the all aluminum radiators. It was in the JTR book (seventh edition), they claim that the welds crack between the side tank and the core. It sounds like you are getting good service out of yours though and I may just go this route. 6 Years without a leak sounds good to me. Thanks for the information.

I was thinking of using this radiator as well as this is recommended by JTR. I have heard that an Aluminum radiator isn't good for a street car due to the fact that they develope leaks over time with many heat cycles. If this isn't the case I may go with an aluminum one as well, that price doesn't seem to bad.

It sounds like a vacuum leak on the passenger side of the intake. Use the porpane torch trick concentrating on the passenger side intake manifold gasket. If one side of the intake gets a leak and goes lean then the computer will richen up the mixture for all cylinders making the other side too rich. Also check for vacuum leaks around the injectors if one of the o-rings got damaged it could cause a problem.

When you finish the upgrade on your house I wouldn't bother with the Satellite internet. I am an IT manager for a constructin company and have 5 Starband systems. They are a PITA to work with and they are not nearly as fast as they claim, not much better than dial up and they cost way to much ($80 per month). The only reason I use them at work is for remote job sites that don't have phone lines installed. My cable modem at home is almost as fast as the T1 I have at work and never has gone down.

The Canon is nice. There is also a Sony with similiar specs in the same price range. This is what I have, I believe it is a P-71. The Sony uses memory sticks which are a little more expensive then the compact flash the the Canon takes. I am an IT manager for a construction company and we have started outfitting all of our superintendants with digital cameras. Many of them like the Sony's that use a floppy disc to store pictures but that is personal preference. I have 12 Sony cameras, 2 RCA, and 2 Canons and have not had any trouble with any of them which is impressive considering the environment they see. I say select by features you want and avoid anything that has doors that fold out (for LCD, flash, etc.), I think that is just asking for trouble. Hope this helps.

The rod length that you require will be determined by the piston that you buy. You can get a piston that would use your stock 5.7" rod I believe. You do not have to go to forged pistons that is a choice you will have to make depending on what you are going to use the engine for. You will need to get an externally balanced style dampner and flywheel for the 383 crank. It has been several years since I built a 383 though but I believe the info I have given is correct. There are more experienced 383 guys on this board and there have been some previous posts about the subject so I search may get you some good insight. Good Luck

I had no luck finding one in a junk yard. Everytime a yard claimed to have one it turned out not to be LSD. I ended getting one off on EBAY for $300 with the whole rear suspension. I did have to drive to Atlanta to get it though. I was luck with the one I found because it was listed incorrectly and I just stumbled across it and bought it for the reserve price.

I also got a complete 300zx rear suspension. I got it for the LSD differential but was considering trying to convert some of the other parts. I.E. bearings, stub axles, disc brakes etc. into my 240Z.

Are you sure you needed an externally balanced style harmonic balancer? Many aftermarket 383 cranks are internally balanced. Was the dampner you removed externally balanced type?

The wire from the carb is probably for an electric choke. If it is then it should be wired to so that it is hot when the ignition is on. The one from the MSD might be the one that goes to the distributor to get a signal from either the points or the module depending on distributor. I am guessing on the MSD because I have never run one. Hope this helps.

These lines don't run the vacuum secondaries. There are two vacuum connections on the front of the carb one on each side. As I recall one goes just above the throttle plates and the other goes just below them. The reasoning is depending on the distributor vacuum advance you want you either pick the one from above the throttle plates giving you more advance as the throttle is opened further or less advance as the throttle is open for the one below the throttle plates. As for the pipe on the manifold it could go to a number of differnt things (auto-trans, brakebooster, emission controls, etc.). These plugged vacuum ports are pretty common especially on engines with aftermarket carbs and etc on them. Most likely they were designed for some part of the emmision control system or some other thing you are not using (i.e. automatic trans modulator, etc.) The vacuum secondaries are operated by a vacuum servo on the sideof the carb. There should be a short vacuum line coming out of it and going to a vacuum port on the baseblate of the carb. I am working off of memory here, it has been several years since I worked on a Holley. How do you know the secondaries are not opening. Hope this helps.

I am a little confused. How is the exhaust routed through that turbo? It appears you would have to pluck the outlet on the manifold and plumb the exhaust through turbo at the top. Also in the picture it looks like the turbo is pulling air in from the same chamber as it is putting it back into, notice the holes in the floor of the manifold under where the carb. bolts up. I think I am confused about this setup because from what I am seeing it wouldn't work at all. What am I missing?

I believe there are two different possible possitions for the indicator on the timing cover. One for the passenger side and one for the drivers side. I am not sure how far apart they are as far as angle though. You probably have a timing cover for one style and a balancer for the other style. If you could findthe angle difference then you could adjust the readings accordingly. Maybe someone can chime in with the angle difference or tell me if I am mistaken about the two covers/balancers.

If it is the original rear end then it is not original. Only the 300zx's came with LSD. The sought after clutch type LSD's only came in the 87-89 turbo models. There were VLSD (viscous) in the later cars. There was never a stock LSD in the 240/260/280 z or zx as far as I know.

Here is a problem I ran into once. I was working on a Vette and trying to bleed a new slave cylinder. I could not get a good pedal until I read the shop manual and found the directions. The problem was that the bleed valve was not quite at the top of the slave with the slave mounted to the transmission. The manual said to unbolt the slave and angle it up so that the bleeder was on top. This is what I did but it appeared that if you jacked the back of the car up enough you could actually bleed it in place. I do not know if this is your problem but it sure drove me nuts. Hope this helps.

The blue puffs out of the pipes sounds like valve seals. You may just need to have the cylinder heads rebuilt. The miss and lack of power could be anything. I would probably start by looking at the carb. Turbos with carbs can be very difficult to set up. I assume the turbo is blowing through the carb. If so make sure the fuel bowl vent is seeing the pressurized air or you will have a problem running lean. Also check the fuel pressure because the carb will need more fuel pressure as the boost goes up. Just a few thoughts.

I went with a 700R4 because it was the cheapest route for me. I got it for $200 from a member of this board. If you go with a 5-speed you will need to get the V8 version the others won't hold up. After that you will need a shifter and parts for the clutch ( i.e. clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc..). I to would have preferred a five speed but could not get one in my budget at this time. I hope to put one in some day though. I think if you search around for the parts and get crafty you could get a five speed in for under $1000. If your budget can stand it and you want the 5 speed eventually then you might as well do it now and save the agrevation later IMO.

The button connects the coil output to the rotor which directs the spark to the correct wires. It is hard to check the secondary side of the coil but you can see if the primary (low voltage side) is working. Put a test light on the tach terminal of the distributor. Then crank the car, if the light blinks then the primary side of the coil is switching. If it is then I would pick up another coil and try that. Another common problem with HEI's is the wire that goes to the module from the pickup sometimes shorts to the housing this usually shows up as an intermittant miss though. Hope this helps.

I am talking about the ignition coil. If you have a module inside the distributor then you don't have points. I assume that since you are talking about a module inside the distributor and your on the Chevy V8 forum then you probably have an HEI. The coil on most HEI distributors is inside the cap. It has a button with a spring on it that connects it to the rotor.

What type of distributor. It could be the coil, the coil wire, the rotor, etc.

You could pick up a 3.54 geared R200 and swap in an LSD carrier. That is what I plan. The 3.7 LSD's are hard to find they are a clutch type and are an easier swap but the VLSD are easier to find but the gear ratios are lower. If you get a VLSD make sure you get the axles with it. There is lots of info on this site about it. Good Luck

It is also moved to gain some much needed clearance with the steering shaft.

The intake gasket for a V8 engine needs to be thin. If you put a thick gasket in it then it will leak at the valley seal. Even if they make a thick valley gasket the bolts would no longer line up and the ports would be mismatched. These type gaskets can be used on inline engines but not V type engines. By the way the 80's Corvettes were to my knowledge all 350's not 400's. You would either have a TPI or a Cross Fire injection setup. The Cross Fire was only used for a couple years so most Likely you have an L-98 350 if it is from a Vette.

I am pretty sure those are the supply and return line for an oil cooler. I assume that these could be used for your oil feed for the turbos. Just be sure that oil also flows through the filter and to the rest of the engine. My 88 Corvette had this oil cooler. In that case the oil lines ran to and from the radiator.

If you remove the spare tire well would the later tank work on the earlier car?. I have an early 71 that I am putting an LT1 in.