dmyntti

On flat tappet lifters nothing the cam is held back by a slight taper on the cam lobes. This causes the lifterts to turn and also holds the cam back in the block. If you use a roller cam then you need to use a cam button on the front of the cam that pushes against the timing chain cover to hold the cam in place. As I recall the plug at the rear of the block is installed just like a freeze plug.

Its called a cut out or in the case of a switch operated one an electric cutout.

I got lucky and got one off Ebay for $300. Look around you should be able to find one for $500 or less. Heck for $700 I would sell you mine with CV halfshafts, but you can do better.

I also believe 95 is the best year for the reasons mentioned above. As for the 383 you can buy a crank and rods for the 383 conversion. The original 400 cranks are for two piece main seal blocks and are externally balanced so they won't work on the LT1. Check cz28.com and fbody.com for more info on the 383 kits and where to get the best prices.

I had the same problem on a Camaro. What I did was get one of those cheap triangular high flow air filters from a freind (I think it was made by edelbrock)and use that. I did cut the flange down about a half inch for more clearance (It is thin sheet metal that was easy to cut and file.)

Every motor has its good and bad points. Chevy's are cheaper and have a good aftermarket. Fords are lighter and the distributor is in the back so the engine can be placed farther back. I am doing a LT1 swap because I had the engine already when I decided to make the swap. If I didn't have the engine already I would be tempted to use a 4.6 from a Lincoln Mark8. It is dual overhead cam and all aluminum. You can often buy the Lincoln at a very reasonable price to use as a donor. If price was less of a concern I would use a LS1 or a Northstar. The choice is yours and its part of the fun. Do you want it easy, fast, different, or what it is all up to you. One thing about my LT1 swap is there are several out there on this site which makes me think it is almost boring and redundant.

I converted a motorcycle to larger aftermarket carbs once. The jets in the carb will likely be for a two stroke (oil gas mix) and will be too rich for the car. Also you will need to figure out a throttle linkage so all carbs work together and are synchronized. You can get the jets at any cycle shop and the linkage can be fabricated if your creative. just make sure that the carbs support enough airflow for the horsepower you intend to run.

It still could be a bad injector. The injector could be clogged or mechanically jammed and the ohm reading would still be right. If you can get ahold of one you can use an injector pulser and a pressure guage on the and watch the pressure drop from each injector seperately. Maybe you can rent one of these pulsers. I have one you could borrow if you can't find one locally (I'm about two hours away form you) Good luck

I once got a remanufactured engine and it dame with a pressurized can of oil for priming. I just hooked it up to an oil galley plug and opened the valve on the can and it oiled everything. I am not sure how effective this is but I did not have any problems with this motor. Maybe you could find one of these cans and use it. On my LT1 I intend to prime with the pump using a drill as I alredy have my intake manifold off for.

My truck did that when ever the rpm dropped down around idle. If I raised the RPM up the pressure would come back. When I tore it down there was a bad main bearing and I had wiped a cam lobe getting it home. I hope yours comes out better than that.

What I usually do is connect a couple wires to an extra headlight and connect them between the battery and ground cable. Point the headlight at the winshield so that you can see the light when you are working under the dash then just disconnect fuses until the light goes out. Once you know what circuit you are looking for you can backtrack the wiring disconnecting things in the circuit until you find the problem. The last one I did turned out to be an internal short in the alternator (probably the diodes as mentioned before). The most common problem I have found is a wire getting pinched by something (like a battery sitting on it) or being cut where it goes through sheetmetal.

To clear a salvage title in Ohio you have to fix the car then drive it to an inspection site (I believe there are three in Ohio) and have it inspected. You will need the VIN number from any car you got used parts off of and a reciept for the parts you put on. Once this is done you get a title that reads rebuilt salvage but it can be registered and insured. The state inspection sites are only interested that all of the safety devices are on the car and it is safe to drive, they don't car what it looks like. For insurance on my 55 Ford i have declared value insurance with Nationwide Insurance and it isn't too expensive at all. You might check with them.

I would think Husky mix because of the blue eye. I know Huskies have blue eyes but don't know if other breed had the Blue eyes. I have an uncle with a Husky and it has one blue eye and one yellow eye. The shape of that dog looks like a husky but not the color. Just a thought.

Someone sells one. It is called the monoblade but I don't have a link for it. The way I understand it is that you don't need it unless you have heavily modified your LT1.

Just looking at the two axles side by side the Z31 axles are longer when looking at the mounting flange. But with the 280ZXT shafts the adapter would need to be thicker because of the extension at the wheel end of the shaft. With a thinnner adapter it looks like they would be very close to the correct length which is why the adapters look so different. My question is since I can use either with an adapter is one better than the other? The 300 shaft looks stronger but that is just my opinion and I am often wrong.

I have both the 280ZXT Cv axles and the 300ZXT axles that came with my LSD. Which one is better to use? I expect to be putting down 300 rwhp. The 300 shafts look stronger but everyone is usng the 280 shafts.

With a draw through setup you would need a bigger carb to flow the amount of air required to feed the HP level you are after. With a blow through the air going into the carb is compressed so you don't need to increase the carb size.

The Gen1 and LT1 use different heads. The LT1 is reverse coolant flow. I think that they can be adapted but doubt it would be worthwhile. The LT1 heads will flow enough air for your goals as will any decent aftermarket Gen1 head and some stock ones. I personally like the 302 LT1 option for its feul injection setup but if you are going to spin it up high you will need an aftermarket computer as I think the LT1 computer won't go above 7000 rpm. I could be wrong though.

I did a Camaro with a booth exactly like Mike KZ did. I would recommend more fans if you are using a siphon feed gun like I was. Be sure to wear a respirator also. When I was done my clear plastic wasn't clear anymore and my hair was red. The booth did work well for keeping things clean outside the garage and the car came out really nice. I used furnace filters on the inlet fans as well as the outlet vents. I had to change the outlet vents three time in the process of my paint job. Building the booth was time comsuming, if you are only going to paint one car rent a booth.

The Vortec heads are a good budget Iron heads. I have them on my truck and like them. They require an intake manifold designed for them but that isn't too bad. They will need to be modified for a high lift cam which you will need for 400hp. As for the splayed four bolt main it is a nice piece but I'm not sure i would call it budget by the time you have them installed. I don't think you will need the splayed four bolt main for your requirements and that money would be better spent on a good set of aftermarket aluminum heads (Canfields/AFR's/Dart). In my area blocks are easy to come by and can be found with the factory four bolt mains (not a necessity IMO). I would get another block to build just for the reason that you can continue to drive your car while you build the new motor. Besides that you can then sell your current engine when you are done to help offset the cost of the parts.

I have this problem too. I now give everyone a schedule of when I can fix their car telling them I need to do something to mine first (which is true). I then give them a recomendation as to where they could take it if they need it quicker and how much it should cost. This has cut down significantly on the little stuff. I do still have to replace two engines one transmission and install a remote start system and CD player before I can get back to my Z. You should of seen the list before I quit doing the little things and oil changes. All of this and my beater 94 Hyundai hasn't been serviced in forever. I think my Hyundai will go on without service until the timing belt breaks or some other catastrophic disaster sends it to the junk yard.

Personally I would not trust the hose clamped ruber hose on the guage for fuel near a flame. The thing about these test is that you need to know how things act in a car over time. With the clamp design by JSK I would be concerned about the rail rotating or moving from sided to side or longitudinally. With the pallnet design I would like to know how the tab is attached to the rail as over time I could see this tearing loose. If the attachment is secure then this design would hold the rail stable without exerting force on the injectors. I could be off base here but these are my concerns. I have worked as a designer for natural gas compressors but I don't have any automotive design experience.

What about adding a weld in sump to the stock tank. This is what I am planning. If I were to use a surge tank what would I do to get the fuel line large enough to feed a V8.

You could get a 12 disc changer that will play MP3's, then burn all your CD's to MP3's with your computer. This may not fit all 200 but it will hold a lot of songs. If you only copy the songs you like and omit the one you don't care for it may hold enough. I have never seen a car cahnger that will hold more then 12 CD's. There are home CD changers that will hold 200 discs but they would not have the antiskip feature needed for cars.

I doubt the headers you have are going to fit the MSA kit. Maybe if you post pictures of your headers mounted on the engine someone with the MSA kit can give you an educated guess.