dmyntti

Use either a headlight or a turn signal buzzer between the battery post and the cable. This will allow you to either see or hear the current flow. Then start disconnecting stuff one at a time until the light goes off or the buzzer stops. If you tried removing the fuses already and that didn't stop the current then look at the alternator and anything elase that is wired without a fuse.

If it is stock then it should have hydraulic lifters. If this is the case then you tighten the rockers to take up all slack (friction felt when turning pushrod) and go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn depending on who you talk to. You need to make sure that the lifter is not on a lobe. Any Chevy V8 manual should give full instructions. You can also set them with the engine running if you control the oil with deflectors or valvecovers with the top cut out. I always set them at 1/4 turn past zero and then readjust them running once the engine is warmed up.

I think the best option is to get a 383 rotating assembly that is internally balanced. You have to make sure the the crank you get is for a one piece rear main seal block.

You could have a shouldered bolt made at a macine shop, just use larger bolts as the stock to cut. I had some custom bolts made for plugging smog injector holes on an old Hyundai once. There were 4 of them and they charged me $20 for all four. They were considerably more complicated then what you would need.

This gae valve idea concerns me. You should be running a regulator to control fuel pressure. With a gate valve your pressure will be totally dependent on the flow from the pump and the amount of fuel going in the carbs. Your pressure will be all over the place if I understand what you are using the gate valve for.

You might have a hole or a leak in the line between the tank and the pump. This will cause the pump to pull in some air through the hole. I found this on two old Oldsmobiles. The fuel line was routed in such a way that it rubbed agaunst the floor board and wore a hole in the top of the line. It acted very similiar to what you are describing.

Maybe you should contact another machine shop first. There is nothing wrong with a vortec block and the powder metal rods are supposed to be the strongest of the factory rods. They may not be as strong as aftermarket rods but they are good rods. Supposed to be good for 450ish horsepower. I beleive that the cam journals can be line bored and oversized bearings installed. Make some calls to machine sho[ps and get other opinions. I personally like to use speed shops for my machine work. I feel they have better quality and I use them even for standard stock type rebuilds. It is worth the extra money on the machine work to get a better foundation to build from.

If you have the retainers that keep the lifters from turning then it is a roller. Non rollers need to turn in there bores. The oilly crap in the lifter valley is broken down oil. It is a sign of either oil not being changed or severe overheating. I had this on the bottom of an intake manifold in a well maintained van I bought. It turned out that the Y pipe was clogged on one side and forcing all of the exhaust from one side of the motor to pass through the exhaust crossover passage in the intake. This craked the intake manifold and ruined two exhaust valve springs.

I would think it would have to be either the coil or the pickup in the distributor. I am a Chevy guy so I don't know the Datsun distributor. If it has an ignition module like a chevy than that would be a likely cause too.

That differential is different from the one in your car. You will need new mounts and axle shafts to use it. It is shorter and wider than the one you have and the axles are different. If you are looking for a bolt in than you need to find a LSD from an 87-89 Turbo 300zx. These are getting hard to find though.

You forgot to mention the GN. I think Scottie can put up some stiff competition if he can go.

I saw a seller on Ebay selling a Nismo clutch type LSD and asked him if it would fit my long nose. He replied that it would not fit the early housing and only fit the later ones. He had bought it to put in an early Z31 and found out he could not use it. Since he had no reason to lie to me about this I would assume that there is a difference in the carriers from the long versus short nose R200 and the Nismo unit is for the newer short nose.

I had this problem on my truck when I put the engine in. It turned out that when I put the engine in I let it lean back to far and bumped the fitting from the oil pressure guage on the firewall and damaged it so it leaked (alot). It looked just like an intake manifold leak and I almost pulled the intake until I noticed the damaged fitting.

A buddy of mine put in a similiar bridge. What he did was find someone selling a flat bed semi trailer. He bought the trailer without the axles and the person we bought it from delivered it and removed the axles. All he needed to do was cut off the front (headache rack) and build small ramps on and off of the bridge. Just a thought. Sorry I do not have my engineering tables handy.

I don't think the regulator would create a problem as long as it does not restrict flow in the return line to a point that the tank gets overpressurized. I would not however atempt to use an orifice for this because the fuel flow through the return varies and with the orifice so will the pressure in the tank which may get excessive.

The red line appears to be straight compression line without any combustion. Notice that the peak it at 0 degrees crank angle. The blue line does appears to look like you would expect with compression. I have worked with an old superflow engine analyzer developing components for compressors. It is amazing how much difference port/valve flow has on the traces. I can't speak of cam timing because the compressors I worked with had a check valve style valve and you could not adjust valve timing.

The way I was shown on a slate table was to bolt everything down using business cards as shims to line everything up and then melt beeswax into the joints with a torch. This was a billiard shop, the felt was stretched around the slate and then glued around the outside with a spray adhesive from 3M.

Try pulling the plugs and see if it turns over. It should turn over fast then and you can see if any water or coolant comes out of the spark plug holes. I also think you just have an electrical problem. Have the battery checked and if it is OK and the battery cables are good then get the starter checked.

Nice price! Mine was a lucky Ebay find how did you find yours. Make sure it is an LSD though because a read here that not all 87 ZXT had LSD's. Good score!

My costs so far for a R200 conversion. I have not installed it yet. I got lucky and found an 89 R200 LSD on Ebay that was listed wrong and got it for the reserve price of $300. It is in beautiful condition and looks new and came with good axles. I ended up driving from Ohio to Atlanta to pick it up though. I then purchaced a Mustache bar from a member here for 40 and have a R200 non LSD cover which I got with another rear end from another member here. I plan to buy the CV conversion from Modern Motorsports for $225 and then everything should bolt right in. So my total will be. R200 LSD $300 Mustache Bar $40 Axle Adapters $225 Total $565 plus a trip to Atlanta

Rather than stroke why not start with a 350. You get the bigger bore which allows for bigger valves in the heads. If 350 cubes isn't enough then you can stroke it to 383. 350's aren't all that hard to come by in our area (I live in Ohio but used to live in Indiana). I have two sitting in my garage looking for a new home.

Cool, did you find a rear end yet?

What I have now. 71 240Z ($250 good body bad engine) 72 240Z ($300 bad everything my first Z) 73 Corvette ($1700 long term body off project) 76 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 ($1500 getting built 454) 84 Bronco II ($300 on Ebay winter beater) 87 Dodge 15 passenger van ($400 cheaper than renting for a week) 55 Ford Customline ($4500 near show quality 8 years ago) My wife has 2000 Hyundai Elanter (bought new) My Step son has 66 Chevy truck (given to him by his Dad, JUNK) 73 Ranchero ($450 on Ebay, we needed a project together) 94 Hyundai Excel (wife bought new and it won't die) My step daughter has 99 Neon (I bought new and gave to her last year for college I am 33 and couldn't possibly count all of the cars I have had. I used to fix them up and sell them. I need to get back to selling them again because this is nuts. Anyone want to buy anything or give me a place to park several cars.

Thanks Dot My quarters are complete from the trim line down. This is a long seam. I wish they did go up into the pillar area like yours. They are also glassed in behind the wheel wells. I was told the metal was cut out behind the replacement panel. I am concerned that this will weaken the cars structure. This is one of the reasons I plan on using a roll cage to stiffen things up.

I bought a car with fibergalss quarters already installed. It was done similiar to what Dot said with the rivets. I do not know if the area was prepped correctly or not but both quarters have opened up at the seam from metal to fiberglass and I can see the rivets still attached to the metal. The rivets pulled thru the fiberglass. I will be reworking this area. I read somewhere about an adhesive to use for bonding metal to fiberglass. Any one have any info on this stuff.