dmyntti

Yeah, I have seen Denny's inserts and I think his car will be very loud. His side pipe set up is very cool though. They should flow really well, headers to 3.5" side pipes and very little baffle.

The holes you are talking about are just clearance holes for the bolts to go through. I would imagine that the JTR brackets are drilled for .4375 as I doubt that they got a special drill bit to make these holes. Don't sweat it just drill with the standard drill. If for some reason the bolts wont go through then you can always redrill later. I used to design parts for natural gas compressors and the clearance holes for studs and bolts were just taken off of a chart. If I were to put a hole diameter of .44 on a drawing the machine shop would have just drilled it .4375 as this would be in tolerance anyway. Hope this helps.

I believe the block for a Vortec is the same as the older SBC. Just remember that it has the one piece rear main seal which is preferred. The stock heads and springs can only handle so much lift so an upgrade is in order. For the rebuild kit you could use the one from Summit assuming it is for a one piece main style block. The intake gasket will not fit the stock head though. Also be careful to use a Vortec intake manifold with the Vortec heads. You can get a set of Vortec heads reworked to use the older intake manifold but I don't think it is worthwhile. I put a set of Vortec heads on my Pickup (76 4x4) along with a Performer Cam and Intake and am quite happy with the results so far.

Didn't they build a turbo small block. I think I remember a thread from a member that has an original Scarab turbo. If you look at the second page of the article listed it looks like it mentions a 425hp turbo engine.

I just set up my new garage. I used older kitchen and bathroom countertops to make oil resistant workbenches all along the outer walls. I also have 8 foot tall shelving above all of the countertops for extra storage and a place for florecent lights. I used one kitchen sink as a location for draining oil etc. with a bucket set under the sink drain. I used one counter with a sink hole in it around my parts washer. I have a bathroom vanity with countertop that I will be making int a sandblast cabinet. This is all very usefull and the best thing is it is all free. I had a couple people give me their old kitchen counters and even a built in oven with cabinate (for heating or powder coating parts). This is what I have done so far but I still haven't moved my stuff in yet.

I think the with the engine in the setback position and the transaxle in the rear the car wqould actually be tail heavy. The Z with an LS1 and Camaro six speed should be around 50/50 if not a little heavier on the rear. If drag racing is the goal then rear heavy would be advantagous but for autocross I believe 50/50 is preferred. With my LT1 in the setback position and everything uneeded removed from the front and the battery moved to the rear I am hoping for near 50/50 weight distribution. I like the idea of the rear transaxle for drag racing and the components would sure be strong but there would be alot of fabrication involved. It would be unique as opposed to my LT1 swap that seems boring compared to many on this sight.

The LT1 uses a roller design lifter and thus it won't hurt to replace all of the lifters. It is also acceptable to reuse roller lifters when you install a new cam. This is not true of non-roller lifters that develop a wear pattern matched to the cam lobe they run on.

My 96 Corvette LT1 has four bolt mains. I understand that all Corvette LT1's had four bolt mains and that some Camaros even came with the four bolt block. The 2004R and 200R4 are the same transmission and can be used with an LT1. I think the correct desingantion is 200 R4 but I have seen it so many ways I am not sure any more.

If you have the sound located down to a specific area you could unplug the injectors in that area and see if the noise goes away. If it is all around the intake and your oil pressure is good then I would assume you are hearing just the regular injector ticking.

If the lifter was clogged I don't think you would be getting oil to your rockers. You will have to remove the intake to change the lifter. There is a spider assembly on the LT1 that holds the lifters from turning. I have seen the stock lifters on EBAY reasonably inexpensive. You could also check the Camaro/Firebird sites (FBODY.com etc.) for the lifters. Are you sure it is a lifter, I had a Vette that had a bad injector that ticked pretty loudly even though the car ran well.

The holes in your heads go into the cooling passages in the head. One would normally be used for a water temp guage and the other would just be plugged. I installed Vortec heads on my truck and did not do anything with the rear coolant bypass and have had no trouble with the truck overheating.

There is another thread on this subject. Someone painted and baked there calipers and thinks he warped them . I would search for this thread before I tried the paint and bake.

Good information guys. I guess when I set up my new garage a will use a larger air line, fittings and regulator. This should give me more consistant painting. Thanks for the info.

I do have a guage at the gun. When I adjust the regulator to give me correct tip pressure (i think it was 15 psi) I have 70psi at the regulator. That seems like too much drop to me. I also ended up with orange peel and sagging. I am sure much of the results were my own inability to paint but this gun seemed inconsistant. My old syphon feed gun sprayed the same paint perfectly when I painted the doorjambs and under body.

I am having trouble with my new HVLP gun. I have a large two stage compressor and plenty of pressure. My pressure is dropping at the gun when I spray. I believe that I need to replace the regulator with a larger one. I never had this problem with my siphon feed gun but the HVLP has way less overspray.

Check Summit Racing they have B&M transmissions. I believe they even have a 700R4 for RV's. I am planing on picking up there Chrysler 727 this winter to put in my van when I rebuild the engine. 270,000 miles on the trans probably warrants a rebuild/replacement. The cost for the 727 is around $700 and this is cheaper then the rebuild shops are quoting me to rebuild the one I have now.

The JTR manual and kit are for the 240-280Z and not the ZX. You will need to make your own mounts for the 300ZX. There are several people on this site that have done it and maybe they will chime in on difficulty.

Your goals are very easy with a Z. I am going with an LT1 and hope to dip into the twelves and get better than 20mpg. If you want to go cheap the carb engine would be cheaper and could easily reach your goals. If you want fuel injection you have several options. The late model Vortec truck engines can be had cheap and can reach your goal. Another option is a TPI from an 80's Vette, Camaro, or Firebird and these are usually pretty cheap. You should be able to bolt in the TPI and go 13's no problem. Then theres the LT1 from a 90's Vette, Camaro, or Firebird. Theses are a little more expensive but they still are not very expensive and will do 13's easy.

For an auto go with either a 200R4 or a 700R4. Both can stand up to your engine and are overdrive. The 200R4 is lighter and a little more efficient but harder to find. The 700R4 is fairly easy to find as it came in just about every rear wheel drive GM made since the mid 80's. The later one are supposed to be stronger but the newer ones called the 4L60E are computer controlled so you would probably want to avoid them.

Good Score! If you are going V8 you probably don't need that driveshaft. If not I you may want to get it as I think the pinion flange on that rear is different. Definately buy it for $300. I paid 300 for mine on EBAY and drove from Columbus Ohio to Atlanta to pick it up. Get the halfshafts even if you are not going to use them now they may come in handy later. You can always sell what you don't need on this sight later.

Stony, How (where) did your stub axle break? Was it a twisting fracture? It could be that with your custom axles you are getting more shock to the stub axles. On most rear drive cars the axles twist a little as torque is applied. This helps absorb some of the shock in the system. With your custom axles and clutch you are probably exerting much mor shock load than most and that may be what caused your failure. Jus a thought.

Watch Ebay they seem to go for $500-$600. I got lucky and got a complete 89 Turbo rear suspension for $300 . The reason the one I got went cheap is because the kid that listed it listed it as a 280Z Posi Race end . My finding it was shear luck and I got it for the reserve price. Watch out though shipping a defferential is expensive, I had to pick mine up.

I considered going with a Corvette differential as well. I was thinking of having the rear struts from the Z modified fot allow the Corvette wheel bearings to be used along with all of the brake hardware. I would then mount the differential like Scottie's first mount. You would then have to have custom axles made witha slip joint in the middle. I was thinking of front driveshafts from a 4x4 truck shortened to fit. I never got the rear end to start measuring things up though as I got lucky and got a good deal on an R200 LSD. Just some ideas I had, but I have no idea if they would work out or not.

I believe all of the 305's had smaller valves. Big valves don't fit in the bore. Another thing to consider is that the 305's had smaller injectors than the 350's so you may need an upgrade.

I have looked at the same thing for my Vortec converted truck. You can get a TPI intake that will bolt up to the vartec heads. I believe it is from Scroggins but I am not sure. The option I have been looking at is to get a newer Vortec FI manifold off of a newer truck ang use that. It would come with all of the sensors mounted and will bolt right up. I have seen these on EBAY pretty reasonable. Another option would be to get a single plane carb manifold and have it drilled for injectors. Then you would need to come up with a throttle body which can be converted from a TBI engine with the injectors removed. Just a few thoughts. I think I am going to go with the Vortec manifod with Megasquirt when and if I ever start that project. (The Z comes first)