letitsnow

I kinda thought(or at least hoped:p) you tried to do fuel only when I first looked at it. Even with the igbt circuit wired up it wouldn't have worked, the bip373 was grounding on the heatsink somehow, meaning no or very sporadic spark. Also, the injector drivers overheat after 30sec of running, I can only assume it's an issue with the PWM circuit because it only does it on the car(with low z injectors), not the stim. Even if you got it going fuel only it probably would have died a few minutes into the trip when the injector drivers blew. The injector driver issue even has me kinda stumped, I think I'll make a thread about it. I'll have to bring it to school for when I have some spare time I can check it out with an o scope. I'm pretty sure the new board will fix most of your issues.

No filter, I know, it's dumb, but I drained the tank and there was NO rust or other garbage. It's a walbro 255lph gsl392, it gets super loud if there is any pressure in the line. It also takes at least ~2 min to pump a gallon of gas free flow(it might not have even been a gallon), that works out to about 115lph. I should really time it, but I'm convinced it's bad. It flows a similar amount pumping from one gas can to another outside of the car entirely.

No idea on the delivery, but I do have good news(for you, also means more work for me). Your old megasquirt would not have run your car in the condition I received it. I've got it mostly worked out though.

It appears that my fuel pump is bad now. There is no pressure at all in the fuel rail after running for a few minutes.

Swain Tech is in NY and they do excellent work, it might save you a decent amount on shipping.

It's really weird, but if it still runs good tomorrow I'll be happy.

If you are using the turbo ecu, you need the turbo dizzy and shaft.

It was air in the fuel lines. I haven't figured out if I just didn't prime the fuel pump correctly or if there is an air leak in the tank.

I switched the drivers around and the injectors between cylinders. I looked at the datalog and noticed that DC2 was twice DC1, the I went out to the car and changed the injectors to simultaneous from alternating, this made the DC's the same but it didn't make it run any better. I can hear all of the injectors firing when I listen to them with the screwdriver method. Checked compression again, it's 135-140 across the board. This is the msq I'm using. running on 3 cyl.zip

That's how I've got it wired, I did switch them around to test. It didn't make a difference as to which ones fired. I also checked to see if the injectors are firing by listening with a large screwdriver.

As the title states, The engine will start and run on 6 cylinders but numbers 1, 2, and 3 die after 5-10 seconds. Things I've tried: Check ignition timing Check cam timing Check valve lash Change spark plug wires around Change spark plugs around Change injector wires around Change injectors around Check compression(125-135 on the offending holes) Listen for hissing when pressurizing the cylinder with an air hose at TDC Play with dwell settings on the MS1 Swearing loudly at it The plugs and wires are new, the cap and rotor came with the dizzy and looked new, I'm going to replace the cap tomorrow. The engine is a '77 bottom end with a solid p90 head, 280zxt manifold and turbo, 280zxt injectors and fuel rail(had the injectors cleaned and flowed), MS1, open MSA downpipe, 280zxt optical dizzy, no turbo to TB pipe yet. If the cap doesn't fix it, I'm stumped. Datalog of it losing the 3 after startup, I put a flag roughly when each one died. You can see one coming back when the rpms increase and then drop back off. Throttle didn't move at all after it was started. 3 cyl.zip

Another to siliconeintakes. The 2.5" coupler was slightly loose on my stock TB, it looks like it will seal with the t bolt tightened down on it though.

I just checked 3 of the CHRA's I have around, one was a ford t3, one was a 300zx t3, and one was an air research t4. The t4 didn't have threads and my bspt fitting threaded perfectly into both the ford and the nissan. NPT and BSPT are very similar, there is only one thread difference. The BSPT seems to be a little smaller, but you can cram an NPT into one if you try hard enough.

Yeah, I'll take it. You do have the case and whatnot, right? PM me your paypal and I'll send you the money.

I might, I have to see if my dad wants it for his car. I'll try to get back to you soon about it.

What are you doing with the old box?

The inlet thread on a stock turbo(or any normal t3 or t4 chra that I've seen) is 1/8" BSPT, british standard pipe tapered. You can get them from most online hardware stores like mcmaster, haven't seen any at local places though.

I'll just leave this here. It's a pretty cool spreadsheet that plots flow on maps like the squirrel performance ones. Turbo.Sizing.zip

The only PU resistor I have is on opto in and tach select, nothing on the IGBT.

Any progress?

Most likely the neutral safety switch or reverse lights. But those shouldn't be connected to the engine harness.

I'm not sure what you're asking, n2o boils at -88*C.

It works in the same way, a phase change from liquid to gas, so I would have to think so.

I think that injecting before the turbo would be better, I'm going to quote TonyD(who was speaking in reference to water/meth injection) because he explains it much better than I do. I would inject the fuel after the IC though.

One thing that bothers the crap out of me is when people use NO2 when talking about nitrous, if you're going to use an abbreviation, use the right one, N20.