letitsnow

I'd go for one rated higher, 300rwtq should be pretty easily done with your setup.

Is 3" piping necessary?

What do you mean by change the ignition events? With a lowly turbo dizzy you have just as much control over spark timing. If you have MS/megajolt already, edis will LIMIT your rev limit options compared to a dizzy or MS driving coils, you can't do spark cut with edis. IMO, the hot setup for wasted spark is a 36-1 wheel triggering the MS directly and having 3 ignition drivers in the case.

Win! Absolute win!

You could tune with MAPdot and not deal with the TPS at all.

Didn't think about that problem, I just kinda figured german car guys were completely nuts and considered a 2000rpm lumpy idle acceptable. One of these engines is the contingency plan if I nuke both of my L series, probably not for a few years.

Give delta cams a call, they might not have much experience with the m104(maybe they do, I don't know, just guessing), but a cam is pretty much a cam no matter what engine it's in, they all have similar design requirements(with respect to reliability). As for specs, you'd have to ask them what they can do and compare to what you want.

That spreadsheet is pretty cool, thanks for posting it. Ignition timing doesn't matter much on the ignition system, so this is useful to everybody.

What about a regrind? They can cut you almost anything.

Did you check advance auto/autozone? The nissan dealer?

It depends what you define as quality parts. If you have super-overkill strong parts you can spin it higher than if you have good condition stockers. The're both of 'good quality', but one will be stronger, that's just semantics though. Piston acceleration should be the magic number here because if you recall some basic physics, F=m*a. If you're feeling frisky, find the position of the piston with respect to the crankshaft angle, take the 2nd derivative of the whole thing with respect to time. Do it all in standard metric units(m, s, Hz are the useful ones here) and you should get an an answer that works out to roughly something*cos(something else(t)) m/s^2. The coefficient of the cosine(or sine, depending on where you started) is the max acceleration. You could then find the force, and subsequently weather or not your parts will deform or break. It's always so easy to say it, doing it is a different story. I'd do it, but I've got an english paper due very soon and I havn't finished the book yet.

I believe it's being worked on, there may be a beta posted somewhere in this thread. http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=30254

Synchro is probably bad, when you shift quickly it'll grind. When you let it settle in neutral it gives the synchro time to do it's job and let it slide nicely into gear. The only thing you could do, other than replacing it, is changing the tranny oil, if it's ancient or low it could make it grind a bit or shift hard.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/544011/544011#msg-544011 Specifically this post by TonyD

I really don't think porting the thing more will help if you get creep with the BC hooked up but don't get any creep with the BC unhooked. Something the boost controller is doing is making it creep, what did you change with chris, the box, the solenoid, everything? Got a cheap manual controller to try? I'd do that before I pulled everything apart.

Move? I've heard of people having family members that don't live in CA own and register the car for them, out of state.

Where do you get things plated? General plating on st. paul?

Knight Rider wasn't evil!? His windshield wipers were. It didn't come up much in the show though.

Did the is200 come to america with the 1g-fe? If it did, you might be able to claim that that's what you swapped in.

I'm not sure if it really shows your age, the first book was published in 1937.

It might take much longer to cover the first few feet, but the car is still accelerating just as hard for the other ~1300 feet. I've run(in my f-body) 15.3 at 106 because the track was cold and I didn't get the tires hot, waited a bit and did a better burnout, 13.0 at 108, got a bigger stall converter and slicks and went 12.3 at 109. That's a 3mph variance over 3sec.

There are a lot of books out there on this subject, but depending on your math background, you might not understand a word of it. You might want to see if you can find "Design and Simulation of Four Stroke Engines" by Gordon Blair in a library, it's about $100 on amazon.

That's a little harsh, correct, but harsh. It doesn't matter what carb you have, if you don't have the proper pressure air will force the fuel out of the carb. Go to theturboforums.com and read as much as you can in the Carburetor+Boost section, also, do a search for demon carbs in the same section.

Look at the MSA exhaust, it's about as cheap as you can get for these cars.

I agree, that's kinda what I was getting at.