mr jdm

hey what size tubing did you use for the lower and upper support if you dont mind me asking?

WHen I bought my z the sr20 was already in there. The owner made custom mounts that were weak and one snapped. With his mounts the alternator sat fine. I just mounted my motor today, but didnt try bolting up the alternator, it may or may not need to be moved. I used the mckinney front crossmember and snapped a pic of the distrance between the Greddy manifold and the clutch master. The clutch master is a Tilton one, that is about 2" shorter than a stock z one, and I had to use a 90 degree an fitting. There was no way of mounting it any more further back without hittin the clutch master. I also had to cut about 1/2" into the oem front crossmember for the oil pan to clear. When your mocking up your motor mounts just be sure you know which intake manifold your going to be using. Here are some pics.

I have 2 questions for you. The z firewall has so few things mounted to it. I know you are trying to go with doing the job EXTREMELY correct. But what would be the disadvantage of cutting this section out and welding it to the firewall that was in place already? Also, if you have a welder handy and you seem you are pretty good at welding, why didnt you just smooth out the whole entire factory firewall and just redrill holes/mounts for brake booster, clutch master, and steering shaft. Seems like it would of been much easier? no?

Ive been buildilng nissan for 5 years now. I bought an sr20 motor with pistons, rods, cams, valves, springs, almost everything to do a full build. I was buildling the motor for a 510. I started searching for a clean 510 right when I knew what I wanted to do. My buddies and I use to shop at a place called garage kwai. Very friendly and always hooked it up crazy on prices. Anyway, one day im at home and a friend Im's me on aim with a link to ebay. Sure enough, it was a Rhd 280z with a basic stock sr20 fmic/exhaust in it. It was Chris's car, he was a tech at kwai. Knowing this was a one time opportunity, I grabbed it right away. And now Im trying to build 500whp sr20 z.

Nope I didnt move the alternator, everything cleared. also, I never had a stock manifold, I just peeped at one I have laying around inthe other room. Right away It looks like the stock manifold would clear, but greddy one wasnt. I bought a shorter tilton master and was actually going to test fit the motor this weekend.

I have a rhd z, the problem I was running into is using the mckinney crossmember, you cant mount the motor far back to clear the oem crossmember without having the intake manifold HIT the clutch master cylinder. I bought a shorter tilton clutch master, I have not yet tried test fitting the motor.

Your car is bad ass. Im building one with an sr20, my s13 has an rb25 in it and im thinking about swapping them so the rb25 is in the z just because of your car. Why didnt you flip your intercooler upside down have the outlets closter to the top?

I'm running the peakboost manifold as well, hehe my car is RHD though, no steering shaft to deal with!

Whater you do, do NOT go to maaco. Period. And dont use a single stage paint.

any suggestions cmonnn

thats a great idea! and it would definetly work with the greddy intake manifold well, but I just ordered one these manifolds because I wanted to do a before and after with Greddy to see if theres any results, also got the 90mm tb to go with it. Im really hoping this manifold clears it but I dont see how it would be possible to invert this one? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-NISSAN-SILVIA-S13-SR20DET-SR20_W0QQitemZ230356778633QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a2557e89&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12|39%3A1|72%3A1171

I just bought a manifold and waiting for it to come in, but stock is definetly not an option. Hehe, running an sc61 with built head. I wish it was hitting the reservoir, its hitting the actual body, about 1/2-1" of the end of it, by end I mean the end thats facing towards the front of the car. Any suggestions on what to do, im kinda nervous because I havent ever had to relocate one of these.

Hey guys whats up, Im doing my motor mounts and right now I am using a mckinney front engine cradle, not trans mount was going to make one or order it later. Anyway, the motor is a redtop with a greddy intake manifold on it. The ONLY way for the motor to sit on the mckinney cradle and NOT hit the front stock crossmember... what happens is the rear of the intake manifold hits the clutch master cylinder because the car is RHD. Whats the solution for this? relocating?.. I have never relocated one, any ideas or advice.

alright, this is exactly what I did. I followed the FSM, installed the cams and rotated the motor over a few times. At TDC my chain looks like this. As soon as I turn the motor a tiny tiny bit clockwise, slack appears. The chain tensioner is completely released, is this ok? Cause it doesnt seem normal and a long time ago I brought a motor to a shop and they told me the timing was wrong and this exact situation was going on. Any advice?

I am planning to prime the car, I guess I will just sand the paint with 80 grit, do the body work, shoot the high build and sand it and then paint.

As soon as my car gets back from my friends shop after having a rocker panel changed, im going to start the body work on it. I have been doing a lot of reading and pretty much know or think I know what im going to do in the right steps. The only question I have is since my paint on my car is in pretty good shape and is the original paint job, I just want to strip the paint off and leave the original primer. If I were going to use a DA sander to strip it, should I use a 80 grit or 180 grit sandpaper to get the paint off and not go to bare metal?

Im painting my car in my 1.5 car garage, the 60 gal air compressor is inside and it does blow air around. Ive decided im going to build the frame with 2x4 and get plastic around it except I will not close off the door side, I will leave the garage door open and paint. Il keep you guys posted with pics, hope to have the car done real soon.

Im building a paint booth for my garage, im going to use either wood or pvc pipe for the frame. My only question is where do you guys get those long wide rolls of plastic so I can make the "walls" of the paint booth.

na i dont have the front cover im going to be taking it off soon, Ive been busy workin on the chasis.

Hey Im currently dropping a built sr20 into my rhd 280z. Anyway, I was doing head studs and a head gasket on the motor. I followed the FSM step by step. TDC 2nd mark from left on pulley Turned the motor over til the grey links lined up with the dots on the crank sprocket. Now when im going back to re-install. THe intake cam goes in at 10 o clock, and the exhaust at bout 12 o clock. When the exhaust cam goes in at 12, one of my Lobes is pushing on a rocker and I have to torque it down like that in order for it to stay at 12. The cams btw are tomei 272 12.5mm lift, the chain was never dropped down and was always held with a lot of tension Otherwise, the exhaust cam sits good at about 11 o clock, but when this is finally installed my chain looks this without the chain tensioner in, but I dont think the chain tensioner installed will removed the slack in the middle because it only takes it out from the left side when your facing the motor. Should my chain sit like this lined up, or should there be more tension up top before installing the tensioner? Im guessing if it your chain has that much slack in it then it skipped a tooth on the bottom to the left or right?

Just like title says, please pm me or would be even better if ya called my cell. Its 847-873-9649. Thanks.

Heres mine although im painting my car s2k white.

you know what I just found another thread, and according to it I can use the stock 280z halfshafts, can somebody back me up ?

Hey whats up, i have a few questions that have been answered a million times and have actually spent a few days searching and just reading around. Its hard to put everything together and there really is an overwhelming amount of knowledge. I have a 77 280z, it was imported from japan and manual from the factory. Im dropping the whole rear subframe tomorrow and Im assuming it already has a r200 long nose in it, thats what it looked like at least. The only question I have, is after swapping an r200 obx lsd in, and using these http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144963 for the spacers going from 12mm to 10mm, my question is, can I use the halfshafts that are on there already so my only major purchase is the OBX lsd?

yea its a 77, I guess il just try prying it off