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Posts posted by pat1
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Looking good, your going to make me put flares on mine.
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i may be interested in buying an oil pan in the next few months, im planning on building a rb25 240z
Sure, just let me know. I'm right down the street from you. I'm in Woodstock
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DONT DO ANYTHING TO THE CARBS...check your ignition timing first...chances are it is advanced too far. Always set the ignition timing to the stock setting prior to running a smog check....an over advanced ignition will cause the HC levels to be too high
The timing to far advanced will cause the nox to be High. It will be hight because when you advance timing the cylinder temp goes up.
It's a good idea to check the timing though.
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hc is unburnt fuel, your running a bit rich. Lean that carb out a bit.
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Thanks for the info.
I find it very unlikely that I would loose the entire bank at the same time. That would mean at least 3 wires failed simultaneously!! (1 for each cylinder).
Have you seen this happen??? I'm still thinking internal pcm failure?????
The truck is still in his driveway. Too cold for me to play with outside.
Yes, I have seen one bank fail. Check the wiring before you replace the pcm. At the dealer I work at I have only seen a few pcm's go bad. I have been there for 15 years.
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Your welcome Tanuki. I had fun building your pan. And thanks for the plug:2thumbs:
thanks again
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Kiwi, Please take this as constructive criticism.I noticed that you said that you were going to build a oil pan without baffles. This will cause problems in the future with your new customers .Without baffles it will have a problem with oil starvation and oil sloshing from side to side and front to back. Resulting in a failed product, wasted money and upset customers. I would like to see your product as well as mine to accell and be a good product so everyone is happy.The volume of your pan is huge and will require alot of oil to fill up the pan to correct level. I would try to slim that down to use less oil and better fitment and cost less in materials. I can help you design a baffle for your pan. I have a new design that a member on this board brought to my attention (THANKS RKLAMB123) and will use on my next pan.
If you want please let me know.
thanks
Patrick
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I'm a mazda master tech, In the early tribute the wiring at the pcm would break in the wiring sleeve. It is very hard to see the break because the wires are still intact. The wiring would break in the wiring insulation. What i do is pull of the black cover that covers the wiring at the pcm and gently pull on the wires on the right side of the pcm as you were facing the pcm in the car. I can't remember the wire colors. I bet you can find the wiring diagram on the web. Find the wires going to the coils and injectors and check them ast the pcm. I have seen tons of these tributes with this problem. I hope this helps
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If you are wanting something to experiment with I have a RB25DET pan that came with my swap... someone has already done a bit of hacking to make it work witha RB26 Pickup/Block.
I have a SpeedShop Thagard based pan now which I want to redo also, maybe we can work something out...
What do you want to do to the Thagard pan?
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Yes I did. I might need one for my 300zx also
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Nevermind, I guess nobody is interested it this. Just a thought
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I got mine from a guy on this forum. Andy is a dealer and is located in tenn. I'll find his user name later. I just searched NIStune on the hybridz main page.
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I'm sorry I Meant to say the parts on the heads don't interchange ie valves etc.
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I know nics is a pain in the butt. I have both a red top and a silver top. The silver top is in my car and the red top is used for making my pans. If I were you I would junk the red top and go with the silver top. The ports in the head are alot smaller and the heads don't interchange.
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NIStune and do everything that apexi power fc for a 1/3 of the price.
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I personally love the custom pan especially with the enhancements you installed. I think the pan reversal would be good as well especially at the right price. There was a guy on here already doing those but the price was the same as your custom pan. Also for those of us with the RB26 style blocks and having the issue with the rear oil pickup. Its either you or Rips right now. When I had the 200zr pan I needed it notched and a modified pickup. It was cheaper for me just to sell it and get your pan.
Thanks, I'm glad you like your pan I made you and thanks for the plug:2thumbs:. I'm trying to keep my price low but maybe not low enough for everyone. I had tons for pm's about buying a pan but it seems that some people are looking for a cheaper alternative. And I was wondering if this could fit there bill. This pan reversal would be for the rb20/25 as the 26 would be a bit harder to do.
I don't have a ft sump pan to modify at this time of I would have done one already. I guess I'm looking for someone to be my guinea pig. If someone needs a pan built and is on a tight budget with there swap please let me know.
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They nistune is not made for the Rb engine but can be made to work with it. On plug and play i found is called a link G4 Rip is/was using a unit made by them.
http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management-ecus/g4-plug-in-ecus
Nistune is made for the rb engine. All you do is install a daughter board in the stock ecu and hook up a consult cable and you can tune. It uses the stock ecu wiring harness and a the stock sensors. All this for less then 500.00. Take a look at nistune.com
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Pass, too much $$$ for what you get..
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haha, I can crank for like 40 seconds before the fuel injection will give enough gas to fire up in the cold... Cant wait to take off the cold start and emissions. The stock 280z fuel injection is rudimentary and kinda sucks! But an RB is different. Coil packs and its been more developed. I bet the RB swap is cheaper and makes easily the same power as a 3.0 stroker. as far as I know an LD28 crank, 240z rods, and 280z forged pistons and you have a 3.1?
that rb kills that stroker. The stroker had a killer torque curve though. The rb is more fun but I love turbos
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haha Im 17 as well now. And Auto class is most definatly a joke, we rebuilt a 4 stroke motor in a month and it took the whole semester for the other groups to build theirs.
--->Pat1 : Yeah, Fuel injection is reliable
... haha sometimes.
Do any dynoing yet? or is it just a stock silver top?
I took shop class in high school for 4 years I loved that class. I didn't learn anything but welding.
I went to tech school at one of the best tech schools in GA. I thought I knew everything until I started working at a dealer. I leasrned more at the dealer in 3 months than in 3 years of tech school.
I haven't dynoed it yet still messing around with it. Its a silver top with a rb25 turbo. The thing flys. I also have a 92 300zxtt with about 470-480 hp to the wheels.that thing scares me.
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I know how what its like lol. My Acura starts up every time. I can sit there turning the Z over for a good 5 minutes sometimes.
that's the truth. It sometimes took forever to start that s.o.b when it was cold. And thats when it was in the garage at a chilling 60 degrees LOL .
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you can't go wrong at that price. I have a old lincoln 100 amp mig that I use from time to time. Works great on the small stuff.
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before I put the rb in mine I had a 3.0 stroker with all the go fast stuff. I spent 4700.00 building that motor. I built it back in 1999 when the was not info on building it as you find today. I researched on building that motor for over a year. I can tell you this it's nice to have fuel injection now LOL. Just get in and turn the key and haul a$$
Anyone tried one of the Cheap Ebay Plasma Cutters?
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
I have a gianttech tig/plasma/arc welder I think it's a ct520. I love the thing, I cut some think stuff with it, The tig is bada$$ and for the money you can't beat it. I spent 675.00 shipped with a foot pedal and some other stuff. It comes with a 3 year warranty. I have welded and cut with the thing all day long with no problems.