240hoke

I saw that and actually have it bookmarked, I never saw the finished product though and It looked like quite a bit of fab work. I like the fact that these are really easy to install and even remove if nessecary. I also really didnt want to mess with the factory regulators as they work great as they are. I know SPAL quality is good and I can get parts quick if need be. Add to that I would say these units weight a total of MAYBE 4 lbs. As for why you may want to go with power? The entire purpose of my car is to build a nice Daily Driveable car that i can go to the track with every once in a while...with harnesses its impossible to reach the passenger windows, so pulling off and unbuckling is mandatory, that is the main reason I choose to go to power.

Updated original post with price and spal website

Hey Guys, I recently got a SPAL power window kit for my car and just got around to installing them yesterday. I was going to do a writeup but these things were soooooo easy to install Im just gonna post a few pictures and a vid to show how well they work. I have yet to run the wiring for the switches but i have tested them with a battery. Ill be running the wiring under the dash to a pair of switches in the console. Here is my Big Phil style Spal Advertisement video, the battery I was using was probably also around 10 volts so they will more then likely run faster when i have them wired up. Motor Assembly To motor can be rotate on the transmission and is connected through a cush drive. The assembly mounts with these tab that can be places in numourous spots on the transmission, I used self tapping screws to secure it. I will trim the bracket down later. Side view showing clearance, I havent tested but it look like they should clear the door panels just fine...now I just have o get around to making a set! These kits are available from SPAL directly for 180 dollars, if you buy the switches from them (which I recommend) its another 25 bucks. http://www.spalusa.com/

Yea they almost wouldn't let me run at SEZ with my battery inside...I shot the ♥♥♥♥ with him for a few minutes and he just told me to fix by the next time i can back Even though I have a "dry cell" or absorbed glass matt battery I went ahead and put it in the engine compartment not only for safety but it also easier to access. Several people have placed them in the rear under the floor on the passengers side and it has turned out pretty trick i thought.

Not to thread hijack here, but Smogsux if you havent seen it I have a pretty detailed site showed all the steps required to complete the swap: www.vq240z.com I also have a really nice Shifter Relocater that will be ready to purchase in a few weeks: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141688 I will also more then likely be making mounting in the next couple months, including a engine crossmember and transmission mount, this is not a done deal but I am seriously contemplating building a jig and turning these out to help more people get the swap done...it really is a great engine for the s30.

Thanks again for the compliments guys, I put another 100 miles on her yesterday without a problem at all!! I also mounted up the power windows, they were super easy to install and work great! Ive just tested them with a battery, Ive yet to run the wires through the doors and all. Ill post some pictures of that soon. Garret! -- Havent heard from you in a while!! Hope to see you at DNI?? Gimmie a shout sometime. Sidewayz - I completely agree with you. Although in my case it was a little more then that. I had been messing with the l28 for a while, and when my brand new turbo blew its was the breaking point. I just couldnt stand to spend another dime on that motor, added to that I needed another clutch to drive it on the street... I busted a set of engine mounts, two tranny mounts, and two diff mounts. Sooooooo I needed all new driveline mounts, a new turbo, a new clutch, new engine management, and lots of dyno time to get it running how I wanted. I wanted the challenge of a full blown engine swap and I actually probably came out cheaper with the VQ setup and I feel like it will be a better platform in the end with all the tuning and aftermarket option availible, not to mention the lower weight larger displacement, crossflow heads, vvt, dbw..... BUT I dont want anybody to get me wrong I LOVE the L28 and would reccomend it to anyone. In fact the next 240 I build will probably have one in it (im already collecting parts lol) but in MY humble opinion the L28 is much more fun when kept at 15-18 psi with a good tune.

No definite pricing yet, still in the same bracket as I originally estimated...it will not be more then that.

Thanks for the compliments guys its good to finally be driving the car after soo long. The motor is just what I thought it would be and just what I set out to achieve when I started the project. The car is a lot slower then my l28 setup was right now, but its still really fun. The other morning when it was below freezing I just jumped in and fired her up...smooth as butter. The car is just more drivable now, the engine is really smooth, lots of torque, transmission is super tight...and there is ALOT of room to grow with whatever route I decide to go NA or Turbo. Add to all that Im pretty sure I dropped 200lbs or so, I really wanna get her on some scales. MonkeyT88 - The 3.7 would be sick I agree but thats a whole nother ball game, the blocks, tranmssision and electronics are all different, and your looking at not much more power anyway...there are lots of power adders to take the 35 to the next level when the time comes but Im going to enjoy it for a while. 1 Fast Z - There are alot of options for fuel tuning. The setup im looking at right now is the TurboXS piggy back unit...it plugs in between the harness and ecu and pretty much allows you infinite control over the fuel and timing. You can run a MAP sensor with it for boost and it has addition outputs to control water injection and N2O as well...

Finally a few vids: Startup and Rev Driveby I also have some of just driving around in the car but its kinda boring.

Just got pictures of the prototype...Ill have it in my hands for testing this week hopefully. I think it looks killer cant wait try it out...tell me what yall think.

Nothing right now, the hood will just stay up on its own...never had an issue with it falling. I would like to make a prop rod for it though like stock just another thing on my list lol.

Thansk guys, Pete84 - Im using a CLSD R200, I have a sticky about adding the clutches in the drivetrain section....I have always had the issue but I thought it was the CV's . Hopefully somebody can chime in or Ill make a post about it in the drivetrain section....maybe its normal like Kenny suggested, but its pretty violent. As far as the wiring I wouldnt mind putting something together, I havent decided what to do yet. Blue72 - I posted a link to the Aerocatch install thread there are a few more pictures of the mounts in there.

Thanks for the compliments guys, So far Ive put about 30 miles on the car. The engine is really responsive, starts right up and purrs every single time. Still have a few issue with the car though, I was up late last night trying to figure out my rear end noise. I have a loud popping noise in slow left hand turns, I thought it was an axle bind issue with the 300zx cv's. I took the springs out and moved the suspension through the travel, the only interference was at full droop... just to be safe I ground the ends of the axles down to give me a little extra clearance and removed the grease caps. This worked out well and made them much easier to install and I have no binding anywhere. Didnt fix it.... I think its an issue with the pumpkin, perhaps a result of me adding the clutches. Anyway Ill prolly drop it soon and try and figure it out before I drive it too much. It never does it at speed though, just low 5-10mph tight turns, like turning out onto a street from a stop sign. I also did a little clearencing for my exhaust by removing a pesky fin on the transmission that was rattling a bit. While I had the exhaust down I decided to finish up my transmission mount with some extra reinforcing and powerder coat. I never liked the weld joint between the tube and the mounting plates, or relying solely on the 1/8" wall tube to support all the weight...with the added ribs I feel much more confident in its durability. I haven't modeled it but im sure it added a substantial amount of strength. But anyway so far so good, besides the diff issue. I haven't had anyone to film video so non yet, hopefully my buddy will drop by this weekend to film for me...if all else fails my gf will be in town tuesday and she can film. Then yall can get an idea for this exhaust lol, I dunno how Myron does it since he is running the same muffler. IMO the XR1 is for a track car only. The Drone is constant, I would have to wear ear plugs to ride in the car for more then a short trip. I will be replacing the muffler ASAP, prolly ordering a Borla ProXS tonight.

Whoooo Hoooooo this thing is a blast. The engine is very strong in the car and drives great...although I gotta say this muffler has got to go, wow is it loud and its constantly loud not just when you get on it! I think the 3.70 Rear is a great match for the engine as well, first is still pretty dern short but not worthless this thing gets up and goes in the upper rpm's....she breaks free easily with a second gear roll on. Ive got a few issues that Ive got to tackle before I drive it again but hopefully Ill take a good video late this afternoon or tomarrow.

Here are a few fresh pictures of the car on the ground and the Aerocatch latches installed. I still havent taken her for a spin yet, I spent all day mounting the hood and front bumper. I plan to take her out tomorrow afternoon, might take some video If I can grab somebody to film otherwise I might just film a walk around. I did a little write-up on the pins: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142800

Hey Guys, I just got done mounting these Aerocatch Hood pins and I thought I would post up a few pictures/ writeup. I love these things! Im using a Race On USA carbon fiber hood which I was previously using with the factory hinges and locking mechanism. After installing the VQ I had to remove the factory latch, these pins fit the bill for a replacement To start off I had to decide where to mount them. I initially wanted to install them in the "conventional" place up closer to the cowl. However after looking at where the pins would have to be I decided against it. Having the pins there would necessitate cutting into the frame of the hood, added to that with everything packed on the firewall with the VQ I thought the pin mounts would get in the way. I decided the best place for me was on the fender supports right in front of the inspection lid.... After measuring where they would be I layed out the location on the hood and traced the cut out with the patterns provided in the kit. I went in far enough so I would not cut into the frame of the hood I started the cutout with a hole saw at each end and then used a carbide bit on my right angle die grinder to cut the rest out...worked really good. There isn't much room for mistakes since the mounting holes are pretty close to the cutout so I took my time here. Once I had the hole cut I layed the hood on and made a mark on the fender to allow me to align the pin mounts. I made the pin mounts from a piece of 1x3 rectangular tube. With the mount in place and and double checked I tack welded the mount With the hood back on and the catch in place I marked the pin holes with a small drill bit through the catch and then removed the hood for the final drilling. Mount all painted and in place... Since I have a carbon hood I used some SS wood screws from the hardware store to mount the catches. Also since I am still using the factory hinges I had to trim the hole a little bigger in the catch to allow the hood to swing without the pins catching. Enlarged hole: A few finished pics: I might hit them with coat of paint to match the flares and bumpers but Im happy with the outcome..I think this is a well made product and a great alternative to conventional pins.

That is awesome, sounds like he may have had some internal work done as well, unless it was a HR motor. Im prolly going to go with a piggy back unit sooner then later just gotta do some research on all of them.

Looking like we will have a prototype this weekend...ill post pictures and more details then.

Check on the 350z boards for harnesses. BCM's, harnesses, and everything are not hard to find...ECU might be though. Check with your local late model wrecking yards as well. They will probably want way to much but you can usually bargain them down. Z-ya is spot on, I think its near impossible to match factory tuning unless you have a lot of cash for dyno time, and by a lot i mean A LOT. Its easy to tune for WOT but getting the drivability and all the tables right is where the factory stuff is so good. I plan to run UTEC with the factory setup whenever I go turbo or do any big engine mods.

Non, its pretty pointless. I believe most people do it to get around using the 350z wiring.. I was under the impression the Maxima guys did it to keep there factory wiring and run the larger bottom end. The 350z wiring is not hard to hook up as long as you can read electrical schematics and if your putting it in a Z why change? I think doing a head swap would be more aggravating. Just my 2 cents though.

Just got back from the dealership, that radiator filler tool is the trick!!! It screws onto the radiator and you pull 25-30inlbs of vac on the system to get all the air out, then you have a coolant bucket above the engine that you suck the coolant from....its worked beautifully took about 15 minutes total and the engine was completely topped off, thermostat works perfect now. Here is the tool, its made by Matco, I think ill be purchasing one soon as I think its the way to do any automobile especially new motors like the VQ, runs about 160 bucks:

Nice video...man that thing sounds good I hear ya on the 4.11, lol, no wonder you were spinning tires. Im running a 3.7 CLSD right now so hopefully I can share some driving impressions soon. Just driving it around the block first was soo short, with our light cars i think 3.7 is the max I would go.

Thanks for the tip Myron, after you mentioned that I spent a little while bleeding the system and burping it...still no go. Then after talking with a service rep at the local dealership I replced the thermostat, still no go.... I called Mark...he immediately told me there was a huge air pocket like you thought. He also said that 350z's were terrible for this and they have a special tool to fill them with coolant as it was nearly impossible to do it by hand...mentioned it has something to do with the tube in the back of the motor that connects the two banks allowing it to circulate without letting air out of the engine... idk Anyhow when I get it aligned tonight Im going to use that tool to pull a vaccuum on the entire system and fill it up.

Thanks for the compliments guys! The car is back on the ground, I took her for a spin around the block tonight...super squirrelly with my eyeball alignment so I couldn't get on it. The engine starts and runs great, however the thermostat isnt opening though so it may be stuck I gotta figure that one out. I also have a few issues with the brakes/suspension I need to sort out before I can really take her out and get a feel for the engine. She is hitting the alignment rack tomorrow night Ill post some new pictures tomorrow night as well.

I just got done with some sound deadening on my 240z. I am using BrownBread. I used almost an entire roll in the front passenger compartment and front of the tire wells. You might get buy with 100 sq ft for the entire car, but I would guess a little more if you are doing the ceiling and doors and all.