240hoke

The flow actually loops around and goes in the opposite direction, forming vortices behind the tube! So yea it loops around and blows out the candle...still bad for the i/c. This is all dependent on the velocity though.... but this is totally off topic.

A/C pulls heat out of the cold environment and rejects it to the outside. The Condenser in the front of your car is putting heat out, not cool air. Consequently placing your i/c there isn't doing anything but hurting the performance. That pipe is also hurting your airflow more then likely because the flow at the back of the pipe is probably turbulent. Not only is it not allowing the air to cool the back of the pipe via convection but the air behind it is going to be stagnate, rendering that area of the intercooler less effective. Is this going to make a noticeable difference?...probably not but something to think about and it would all depend on the air velocity as well. Here is a quick pic from wikipedia about the refrigeration cycle: Hugh what your proposing sounds like it would work. On the ford they must have run the evap (lines coming from the throttling valve to the evaporator) lines through the intake; this would make sense. Making your a/c work in conjunction with your i/c is a cool ide. But like you said; It takes energy to run the compressor so the cooler air would have to make up for that lost power (im guessing it doesn't but i dunno). One would need to preform a lot of calculations before you could determine if it was feasible to make more power with a secondary a/c system. If your designing everything from scratch your self you could even make it like a refrigerator...you could have two separate throttling valves and evaporators and run the high pressure one in the intake for a very chilling effect. Or even have two separate circuits and your could flip a valve and have your a/c cool the intercooler or intake manifold (with its own evap) when you were staging and then turn everything off . It would hurt your a/c performance though inside the car. But enough rambling, everything ive said is based purely on theory, I have never worked on a automotive a/c system or any other type. I usually just rip them out of all my project cars

That what you said before and I told you how to wire it so it works like factory and its much easier, you wont have to do anything but tap into the wires on the colum with wire taps then you can pull them off and put a piece of tape over it with the new switch.......all you need a 2 dollar pack of diodes and a 2 dollar toggle switch. But then again your not even required to use turn signals by law so I wouldnt even worry about it till I had my new switch. just run your brake light signal straight to the rear turn signals (at the colum via the pinout i posted above) and leave it at that. hell you could just make a jumper wire in the connector to get he brakes to function right and now have to cut anything...

Hey ZCar i didnt mean to put you off, several people have asked me for this pattern. I plan on posting it as soon as I get some time at a computer with solid works my computer decided not to let me re install solid works the last time I had to wipe everything. I will try and get on a computer at school today and post it sometime this weekend. I have CMM coordinates so its pretty dern accurate.

IF you have used a painless kit you will appreciate the quality over the ez wiring. My main problem with the kit it the type of wire used. I went over my issues in my vq thread if you want to read into it more. My problems with ez wiring: - All wires are the same OD but are different gauges inside, makes for a bulky harness.. I couldnt stand this. - Several key circuits were missing that I had to add. Reverse lights, dash lights, fuel pump (which says its included in the directions) - I was also very annoyed at the preschooler written instructions and the lack of a schematic...as in there isn't a schematic for the harness period. I even called their lousy tech support to ask for one so I could double check everything. Some wires the only thing to tell you what they do is whats written on the wire itself such as "hazard" and "fan fan" - And all the ignition/combo switch wires were tooo short, talk about annoying!!!!!!!!!! I don't buy a new harness to splice wires in to it. Granted there isnt anything "wrong with it", and its straight forward to install for the most part I mean it is a generic harness and it is 180 bucks... I don't like either harness that much but I prefer painless. I think that every harness should have a main connector and all main current draws (headlights mainly, but also running lights, and all main power circuits) should be on relays. I would like to design a fuse box with a relay board and harness connectors built into it...but its just another hting to add to the list. Several things I have learned/learning: - buy new connectors so you dont have to reuse the factory ones ( I still havent done this but ill get around to it someday) - install connectors for each harness (most importantly the dash harness.

The switch is fairly simple and you should be able to diagnose it just my looking at it and checking the resistences between the wires when you move it back and forth. Check out the electrical schematics in a shop manual that will help too. Before you start hacking wires I would highly suggest just get a new switch (you can get one for cheap used, like 20 bucks I just bought a couple, im sure they are even cheaper at a pull apart). Here is the switch pin out: Combination switch: 6 Pin connector: R/L - To Wiper motor Y/B - To Wiper motor L/R - To wiper motor W/G - To wiper motor G/L - Parking light power (supply) G/W - To parking lights (switch) Single Bullets: R - To black bullet connector on dimmer (Dimmer Power) W/R - Main headlight power. L/W - Wiper Power B, B - Grounds Turn Signal/ Dimmer: 6 pin connector w/ 5 wires: G/Y - Brake Power from brake switch W/B - LR Turn signal & Brake W/R - RR Turn signal & Brake G/R - LF Turn signal G/B - R/F Turn signal 3 Pin connector: R/B - Horn relay ground (signal) R/Y - To low beam R/W - To High beam To ghetto rig the switch take your three way switch and connect it to the signal supply power (I forget which one it is since im not with my notes but its one of the bullets) and then tap into the turn signals. ONe wire to the front t/s and one to the back t/s on each side. Then tap your brake power into the rear Turn signal wires further down (towards your lights) from your t/s tap. Here is where the tricky part is; you need to install a diode between the brake signal and the turn signals taps. This will prevent the brake power from traveling back to your front turn signals..... Before you do all this though makes sure you check the resistence in the switch make sure thats where the problem is first. Then check all the wires they are simple to check with an ohm meter, check for high resistence or a short to ground and make sure they are going to the right place!

I have always liked those wheels, I wouldnt pick them out seeing themby themselves but they look sweet on the car...also those ITB MMMMM mmmmmm!!! Looking good man. One word of advice...send the EZ wiring kit back!! Pony up hte extra money for a 12 circuit painless its much nicer.

Dayz -- Thank you for that link!!!! I'm definitely going to order up a set of those in the future, when I need another project...I should have looked for those a couple weeks ago! Sideways - Im running the factory EMS, SDS couldnt even begin to run this motor...at least with vvt and dbw

Well I would love to buy new S30 connectors so I don't have to solder to the old wires and connectors, but thats not that big of a deal. However one thing I desperatly need is a o2 sensor connector I still have to figure out which one though, its one of the lower ones. I am missing one of hte four o2's and they are 150 bucks each from nissan and arent much cheaper aftermarket unless I buy the ones you solder to your old connector which I dont have. Ill try and figure it out today.

Heck yea!!! I'm glad to see you picked it up. Weve got quite a few guys starting this swap now. This think this is an awesome motor for the S30, I cant wait to drive mine. Good luck with everything feel free to PM me with any questions Ill do what I can to help!

I made a hefty dent in the chassis wiring this weekend using EZ wiring 12 circuit kit. I had heard some good things about the kit and it being half the price of painless I gave it a try ( I have installed two painless kits previously). All I have to say is that it gets the job done but it is NO WHERE NEAR AS NICE AS PAINLESS. Several things I don't like about EZ wiring: - HORRIBLE instruction, and by horrible I mean horrible. There isn't even a schematic for all the wires!! Its a sloppy GM/MOPAR instruction booklet that could have been written by a middle schooler. (Microsoft Paint style schematics) - Several wires were missing that I consider key wires. Such as Reverse lights, dash lighting, fuel pump, and some others thats all i can think of right now. - This is one thing I HATE: All the wiring is the same OD, as in the insulation is just thicker on the smaller gauge wires. It makes for a bulky harness and its aggravating trying to figure out how thick some thing is. But enough with the complaining if your tight on money and crafty with wiring it shouldn't be too hard to figure out just take your time and makes sure you know what wires you need to add. Wiring the combination switch is the hardest part of the job so i thought this might help some people: Ill make a schematic later but... Combination switch: 6 Pin connector: R/L - To Wiper motor Y/B - To Wiper motor L/R - To wiper motor W/G - To wiper motor G/L - Parking light power (supply) G/W - To parking lights (switch) Single Bullets: R - To black bullet connector on dimmer (Dimmer Power) W/R - Main headlight power. L/W - Wiper Power B, B - Grounds Turn Signal/ Dimmer: 6 pin connector w/ 5 wires: G/Y - Brake Power from brake switch W/B - LR Turn signal & Brake W/R - RR Turn signal & Brake G/R - LF Turn signal G/B - R/F Turn signal 3 Pin connector: R/B - Horn relay ground (signal) R/Y - To low beam R/W - To High beam Bullet: B - To red dimmer power from combo switch. **Dimmer power can be removed from the EZ wiring harness as the factory harness takes care of it at the switch Some pictures, I admit im holding back on wiring pictures till everything is loomed I cant stand 'in progress' wiring... its messy: The ignition switch is a tight fit but it works, Ill have to make some pretty heavy modifications to the lower piece though. I have the dash connected through one connector I used a 24 pin computer connector which seems to work well. Makes it super easy to remove. Does any body know where to buy factory connectors? Battery and oil filter re-locator, this stuff will all be powder coated and the rubber lines will be braided nylon with -AN fitting down the road. Im just trying to get this thing running now. One more weekend to finish up the wiring for me and then it will be time to test the fuel system, button up the motor and go for start up. Im hoping this will come together in 3 or 4 weeks.

Im using a custom drive shaft, I believe its 3"x.083" tube with a spicer 1310 joint in the back. The problem with getting a drive shaft for the VQ is that they don't make the transmission yoke so you gotta grab a driveshaft from the junkyard. The factory DS is two steel jokes joined by a carbon fiber shaft that is pressed on. You basically just cut the carbon off of the tranny yoke and you can weld 3" tube on it.

Just got finished with a full day of work. I almost have the EZ wiring done. Finished up my dash harness and got the dash mounted in the car along with all the wiring for the combination/turn switch. I also managed to mount the 350z ignition switch so it comes out in the factory location, its was a tight fit but looks like it will work. Going to take some trimmin on the factory plastic trim though. Ill try and post some pictures tomarrow. If all goes well I should be able to complete all the wiring.

Heres a picture of my old setup, its not a Rb26 but I think its the exact same intercooler. Looking back at this picture I cant believe I even put that thing on my car..its rediculous. At least for a L28 anyway.... I used four tight radius 90's worked out awesome, put the couplers inside the engine bay which makes for easy servicing.

It was a Joke about the rewinds, when those wheels came out I was getting several Pm's a week asking how I liked my rewinds and other various questions. Kinda aggravating after going to the trouble to get real wat's...but no knock off's have quite got it yet, for me the RS8 is still the best wheel for the Z. THe Rota RbR's are great due to the fact that they are 17's but there is just something off, they just dont look old school But anyway, they are Watanabe RS8-R's 16x9 -13mm f and 16x9.5 -19 rear.

Okay Wow, I should have been paying more attention to that, thats a pretty tight fit there. Ill just be quite now. Looks like the front exit is your best bet.... looking forward to seeing what you do.

To be honest Im not understanding what is so bad about how the factory manifold is laid out. If i was doing this swap I would run the stock plenum with a spacer or a kinetix unit. Before I modded the factory plenum I think I would just make my own custom plenum from the ground up. Big deal if its 12" farther back in the engine bay, its still a straight shot. I used the piping to help fill up the extra space up front. But thats just my 2 cents.

Nice find!!!

Congrats Quoc! As always I absolutely love your car, its so clean and those wheels just set the thing off. I bet the rb25 is a blast to drive as well.

I just got done fabricating my SS exhaust. I am very happy with the results and have a finished product I can be proud of at the end of the day. A full stainless steel exhaust though is no doubt a huge expense. I am of the opinion that a properly built aluminized system gives you far better bang for your buck. I spent around 1000 dollars for a single stainless steel exhaust with all supplies including my welding gas etc. When I was finished I will say that I have an appreciation for a well made exhaust, I would say I have around 20-30 hours in it total...makes the 1500 dollar mail oder exhaust for new cars seem cheap! Also one thing that I didnt do and wished i would have...If you are welding stainless dont forget to back flow the tubingor for an even easier approach use Solar Flux on the inside....this will lead to much higher quality welds and no build-up inside the tubing. Solar Flux: http://www.solarflux.com/Pages/Menu.html Here is another good site for cheap mandrel bends, their stainless is beautiful, and they have the cheapest prices i have found I think they are suppliers for a lot of online tubing sites. They have a list of what they stock and you can special order bends in different radius's and in 15 degree increments...usually takes about 2 weeks to receive special order ones: http://www.globaltecheng.com/elbows.htm Pictures of my exhaust building: www.vq240z.com/exhaust

Thanks for the compliments guys. MoNkEyT88: I bought all the bends from globaltecheng.com and just cut and welded. SS is a venture I wouldn't do again....its gets EXPENSIVE. That and just tig'ing the thing alone took hours... it was worth it though. EMWHYR0HEN: I using the factory mounts so the engine is going to move a bit The flex pipe just keeps some of that stress out of the exhaust and also allows for some expansion from heat. It also allows me to basically mount the rear of the exhaust almost solid to the chassis with poly bushings and the front for the exhaust to the engine without breaking anything...since your solid mounted at your motor its not that big of a deal not to have one.

I give some some major credit EMWHYR0HEN, you are kicking some ass on this project. And to be honest youve made me get off of mine!! At least I posted my finished exhuast pictures first!!!! You definitely are making some good progress being a student its impressive do you go to school near your car? Im a ME too, and NC State university. Just one more year left, this ♥♥♥♥ starts kicking your ass junior/senior year. What really slowed me down was working full time over the summer as a ME Co-op and taking two labs that and driving two hours to get to my car... But no excuses lol. Anyway looking great, that steering shaft relocation is really slick as well. Where did you get the universal?

Finally got a good bit of time to work on the car this weekend and managed to finish up the exhaust and start on the wiring. The engine wiring is 95% complete just a couple loose ends to tie up. Next is finishing the ez-wiring install on the chassis which shouldn't take tooooo long.....shes getting close to startup!! Here are a few pictures: Had to get help holding the exhaust for the final welds on the flanges hehe. All thats left is a nice tip...still looking for one. The engine wiring, it's all super messy and temporarily mounted...gonna get cleaned up and loomed after she runs

I have had good luck welding cast aluminum so far. true its not as pretty as extruded 606t1 or whatever but you can make nice beads. It takes a lot of heat and grab some aluminum filler for cast aluminum. I forgot the exact numbers but they should know when you buy it or perhaps someone more knowledgeable can chime in. I relocated the coolant sensor in my rear coolant passage so i didnt have to modify the firewall...and it welded very well.

Nice writeup Ryan, Great to see another Z32 transmission installed and working well!!! I havent had any issue lining up the transmission with the two I have installed. In fact both times they slide right on, to my surprize. Im assuming it mostly had to do with the use of the tranny jack and the tight fit with the stock mounting ears left in place. I wrestled both into place with help so I could wiggle and angle it easily. The shifter does feel kinda funky at first due to the shackle position and the super quick throws, but I got used to it quick. Keep us updated as to how you like it as you get some miles on it!