240hoke

Myron - Thanks, yea I noticed it wasn't connected to anything, but what belt are you using? I didn't think you could tighten the belt without it. I am using the factory oil cooler. The coolant outlet points kinda forwards and down on mine, I had to notch a little out of the cross member to make sure I could get a tube on it comfortably. Other then that i just screwed the generic adapter onto the oil cooler and ran 90 degrees brass fitting from there to the remote mount. Im gonna replace those rubber lines with braided nylon line when everything else is done. Also another Idea I had since the oil outlet is below the frame rail is to go straight into the wheel well and mount the remote filter to the firewall inside the drives fender, then mount and after market oil cooler and filter in front of it behind the tire with a rock guard. Thought this would be clean and work well... Mark -- Thanks for the compliments, We need to do a photoshoot when both cars are ready to go lol, except that might make mine look bad. Ill be talking with you about that rear end soon as well.

Finished up my front cross member this weekend as well as all my brake lines. I just updated my cross member page on the website: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/frontsubframe While I was under the car I realized the was plenty of room for an engine mount cross member and I'm really not sure why I didn't want to add one before. I plan to connect the engine mounts and then make a skid plate to bolt the front and rear cross members together to protect the engine/oil pan. There isnt much left except wrapping up electrical and plumbing the cooling system. Definitely should have some road test videos by Christmas.

I cant believe the response from you guys on here, I expected to see a bunch of disgusted replies. I for one and not a fan of the car iI think the French have gone a little tooo far, but I am a bit biased as I like the 350z. The 350z is smooth and flows nice, everything matches. The 370 is just a mess, the rear quarters dont match with the rest of the body...as others mentioned it just looks ODD from some angles. I like the front and I like the back, but when I see the sides Im thinking what the heck happened here... 350z meets crossfire, meets bloated porshe??? I know it doesnt look the same but the styling reminds me of the new Z4 coupes kinda messed up. There is no doubt it will be a really fun car to drive, as they have made it lighter and a good bit more powerful but I doubt ill ever get over the looks, but I will reserve final judgement for when I see one.

I would go streetable too...if your running track days I doubt your going to total the car. You can just put a small hitch on the Z and tow your race wheels/tire to the track along with your canopy and other crap you might want on a small ultility tailor. Thanks what I plan on doing with my 350z when the time is right.

If the light is off when you turn the key then your okay I think. I hope it does work for you because that mean it will be alot easier for most people to do the swap. Maybe the battery thing is not an issue I dunno, it certainly seems ridiculous to me as well. I wouldn't be surprised if it starts right up, your certainly have a bunch of wiring in there lol. Im surprised you left it all being concerned about weight, I think you have about 20lbs of extra stuff. I like the little nissan fuse boxes I would have liked to rewire one to work with just the ECU how I have it, but didn't want to mess with it.

Im going to have to do the same thing as you with my Autometer gauges. Oil pressure and temp are not a problem but I gotta figure out the tach and speedo. I was thinking about trying an inductor setup on the coil like you are talking about. I was lucky To initially start my car Mark brought over a Consult and reprogrammed my key code, the key matched but the ecu has to be reprogrammed after 48 hours, according to mark...which was the case for my car. He is a Nissan master tech and really smart with electronics so I was taking his word on it! Anyway good luck on the startup looking forward to it!

If the security system is up and working then the security light on the dash will flash. If you turn the key and it stays on constantly, your in failsafe. Either way if the power has been disconnected from the ecu for more then 48 hours it wont start period without going to the dealership. Im curious to see how you did your wiring, are you going to use the factory gauge signals?

Did your EMS start up in failsafe?

I have an Eastwood roller as well..I must say you are a brave, and generous, man for loaning out tools. I have rolled several cars and I have not been able to keep the paint from cracking on ANY of them. I really roll the fender though, until the lip is flat, I don't just bend it up a little bit. You also have to be careful because the Eastwood roller is strong and can pull your fender out as well without much effort. However that shouldnt be an issue on s30's since hte rear fender well is so strong. This is gonna sound crazy but....If you are repainting you car honestly the best thing to roll your fender with is a 5lb sledge hammer I used it on my 260z and current 240z and it worked awesome (way better then a roller lol)

Poor kid...

Thanks again for the compliments guys, I cant wait to work on it now that its running, being at school doing homework is like prison lol. Filmjay - Welcome to the board, Its a DE -- from a 2004 350z. It would be nice to have the HR motor for the much higher redline...but I couldnt pass this one up, it only has around 400 miles on it.

Thanks guys, 1_fast_Z - The car weighed in at 2260 with the L28/z32 trans + all the turbo stuff. Im hoping it will be sitting around 2000 with the vq. I can tell with the car on the ground that the car sits higher already! New boring vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aPu88qwD_0

Thanks again for the compliments guys, I have a walk around video of the car with me babbling I figured most people wouldn't want to see it but if y'all would like to lemme know. Yasin - Yea shes pretty dern raspy, once everything is together and I get a chance to see how it sounds on the street Ill prolly add a resonator to help mellow out the rasp. As far as power, I think it will be more around 250-60hp range at the wheels. The motor is bone stock right now except for the lack of accessories and an exhaust. I have still not decided what I want to do with the motor. its either eventually going to be N/A or turbo so I gotta keep that in mind before I start modding, a new plenum is first on my list since it will work for both! IF I stay N/A Ill prolly raise the compression with HR pistons and put cams in it. But for now i just wanna drive and enjoy it, I think a responsive drivable 250hp in a 2000lb car will be a blast and I wont be worried about driving the piss out of it!!

Thanks for all the compliments guys I'm still stoked about getting the motor running. Ive gotten a lot of remarks on the sound of the engine...but man is it loud in person! Going to start pushing to finish everything up but the overall goal is still xmas to have everything complete, maybe Ill have a driving video around thanksgiving who knows. Ive been slowly working on this thing every other weekend just about for the past year. Ill be getting a lot of breaks now with the semester almost over so I'm really looking forward to finishing her up.

Hey Guys, Just thought I would post this here to for some non-tech discussion. I just got the car running this weekend. It's FAR from finished but this was a BIG step for me. The car is running on the factory electronics. This video is from the third startup of the car. Also this motor sat for 4 years before I got it and she started up the first try and ran smooth! The ecu will continue to learn and tweak the map the more I run it. Anyway, I am incredibly stoked....

Certainly hope so there is still ALOT of work to go before the car is roadworthy but I plan on having her completely done around xmas...I plan on bringing it down in the spring. It wont be much of a drag car but it will be fun.

A short video:

MY CAR RUNS!!!!!!!! Me and mark fiddled around with it a bit this afternoon and fired her up for the first time. She started up first try and runs smooth as butter, the car revs smooth and did not go into fail-safe, w000t. Mark took some video, but I wont be able to get the vid from him till monday or so. Hopefully Ill be able to find a video camera so I came post something up tonight. Oh and my exhaust is LOUD, definitely going to have to switch mufflers or put another muffler in. Anyway wish you guys could see the smile on my face, its from ear to ear Hope everybody else is having a good weekend!!!

Sweet swap, that thing looks like a blast! I have always loved the 510s.

Thanks, I just updated the info in the thread. They are by CMM, which is about as accurate as you can get. Hopefully you guys can come up with some other sweet tranny combos!

Hey, I had several of yall inquire about the L28 bell housing dimensions to aid in designing of other transmission adapters. Here are the deminsions that I used to make my adapter for the L28 side. These measurements were taken by CMM from a Nissan 5 spd transmission bell housing, so they are as accurate as the factory castings can be. All the points are referenced from the center of the input shaft bearing bore. I have found the dimensions to work VERY well with my adapters. I would ask that if you use these dimensions to make any parts other then for yourself that you donate some money to the site. This is the bolts, dowel pin, and starter location looking at the engine from the rear:

Im am posting the diminsions in a new thread no the L series board, that should make it easier for people to find, as I think this will be useful to alot of people. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=949246#post949246

Damn this is going to sound bad but ill have it posted tomarrow. Promise lol.

I know it doesn't help now, but the east wood brush on high temp exhaust manifold coating not only looks sweet (like fresh cast iron) but it WORKS. I painted my exhaust housing and manifold with that stuff and it never burnt off and always looked great. Easy to apply nice and thick and then it bakes on the first 10-15 mintues you run the car.

mustang 5.0 for a cheaper build and a corvette C5 for a nicer kit. That what factory five uses and you can find both of those cars at reasonable prices and use the engines / suspensions out of both of them. The gtm uses ALOT of the c5 stuff, including the side mirrors. Im thinking about building a gtm or another kit car this coming summer, I dunno if it will work out though.