240hoke

Im using all Autometer gauges. The speedo is electronics and basically calibrates itself. Ill post some pictures when Im make the prox sensor mount.

Yup hate to tell you but those Widebands are wayyyyy to close, your gonna fry 180 bucks worth of sensors in a few minutes of driving. I would mount them down near your transmission bell housing right at the base of your DP. Swap is looking goo though, should be a beast. Q45 rear end mounting stuff looks really good.

You really need a smaller side wall, the widest "street" tyre your going to get is the victoracer v700 they have a 265/45/r16. If your the drag racing type MT drag radials come in 255 and fit perfect on the wheels. But yea if you plan on actually driving the car and need more then a 245, pretty much need a 17" wheel. I run 245's all the way around and it looks fine, I just wish I had more rubber.

Hey Guys, Looks like the shifters mounts are a go. I have to get back home and finialize my models, I'm also going to modify my current design so that you can use the factory dust boot on the top. It will probably be two weeks before I get the drawings to the machine shop since I'm finishing up with my finals over the next week and a half. My goal right now is to have these ready no later then the end of January. Hopefully it will be sooner, but I wanted to give everyone and honest estimate for the deadline. -Austin

Looking good! I do agree with the radiator issue though. You could switch radiators so you have the outlet on the other side that would fix the cooling hose issue (which isn't that big a deal since you could wrap it really well. They have cheap ~200 dollar aluminum radiators at Jegs you can weld onto and do whatever you want with. Also I would highly recommend a fan shroud, you could custom make one to offset your electric fan to the right side and then put some heat shielding on the shroud around the turbo, that would kill two birds with one stone. Heres my jegs radiator I made the shroud and stuff for, total cost with fan was around 260 buck I guess: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/radiator Keep the pictures coming!

Just rent one, if you use it a bunch its a good route to go I think. You dont usually get to keep "your" tank anyway you just swap it out from one of theirs. I use the small 80's and they cost right around 20 bucks at NWS

Yes Id be more then happy to work with you on that. It looks like there is enough interest to get a run going so I'm going to talk to the machine shop by the end of the week. Ill keep the thread updated. I also wanted to note that the pictured one was my mockup, there will be more meat around the mounting points on the 'production' pieces. -Austin

Seems to me like you could bump the compression up even farther for the power levels you are looking at. Taking it to 9 or 9.5 would give you better drive ability off boost and allow you to spool faster. Good to have you back btw!

Dayz - Yea after doing this before by soldering the old connectors on I was wondering what the heck I was thinking! Using new connectors and crimping is the only way to do it and its much easier. Thanks for the tip Myron, I really didnt think about doing that, there is alot of cool stuff you can do with the ecu/bcm. Ive been trying to keep the ems and chassis stuff separate though as much as I can, the only thing my ECU controls is the fuel pump for obvious reasons. Right now Im using a SPAL 185 degree grounding switch in the radiator to control the electric fan. I found this thing today which I thought was really sweet... the PLX OBDII reader, has a sweet gauge interface that can display all the readouts from the ECU. I think one will be making its way into my car in the near future. http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm200obd/

Yea put at least one strap on it, even a cheap pull down ratchet strap around it. I usually crate stuff when I ship it, but that looks like it should be fine.

Okay, those that have expressed interest are: DRZ man vqpwrd240 Tombarace14 Two more and Ill see what I can work out.

Hey guys, I have had a couple people contact me about reproducing my shifter relocator. Im curious how much interest there would be. Hopefully if we could get about 5 people that want one I could have them made. I dont have access to machining equipment anymore so Ill have to have them made at a shop. It works and feels just like stock (even has push down 6th gear lockout) while shortening the linkage by roughly 4". Here is more info on the shifter and some pictures showing where it places the shifter in the interior: http://www.vq240z.com-a.googlepages.com/shifterrelocation I'm guessing I could put these together for around 150-200. That would also include me TIG welding your shackle assembly if you needed that done. But I cant lock in the price until I have them quoted....if there is interest.

I had some time to work on the car over thanksgiving break and finished most of the interior wiring . The EMS system is completely finished, the dash is wired, as well as the column section. Still have the engine section and speedometer to wire up but I'm getting there. I bought a tach adapter for the tachometer and Ill be using a Proximity sensor on the drive shaft differential flange bolts for the speedometer signal. Huge thanks to Dayz for the Vintage connection link. I ordered enough connectors from that guy to rewire two cars! I replaced all the connectors with locking ones of similar style. Also a great place for wiring products is Waytek. They have awesome prices and alot of cool things, you do have to buy in bulk though. I used them for my fuse panel and relay mounts as well as relays and a nice cheap u-barrel crimp tool. When I get the time Im hoping to do a complete writeup on how to rewire a datsun with some of the trick Ive learned and the mistakes Ive made. This is the entire EMS system. The ECU controls three of the relays ("relay 1", throttle, and fuel pump) and one is for the key switch power section of the fuse panel. I built a fuse panel to provide the necessary constant power and key switch power. I got these panels from Waytek, each four pack snaps together to make a clean solid system just like the relay mounts. All connections in the system are crimped and soldered for reliability. No bullet or quick connects either all OEM style lock together connectors. Here you can see the NATS, BDW, data port, and security lamp going across the cockpit by the heater core. The fuel pump power and "ign on" signal also connects to the main chassis harness here too. The security lamp will be mounted in the dash trim panel. And here is a picture of the dash, It is connected to the main harness with four connectors to make removal a snap and keep everything clean. There is basically one connector for the speakers, one for all the gauges, one for power and grounds, and one for the hazards and push button starter. Thatss all for now I will be getting back to the car in a couple weeks for a nice long xmas break. I'm Looking forward to getting the car on the road!

I think to properly answer your question we are gonna need some more info, starting with some pictures.

Loving what your doing so far, that motor is going to be a monster. Where did you get the pipe sections for your manifold? That is a trick way of doing it for cheap, and should work as well as any factory manifolds out there. Im curious to see how the car preforms and especially the turbo, might have one in my future if it works well. I didnt have a good experience with my name brand turbo on my L28, might as well have been "china junk" Keep the pictures coming!

I actually really enjoy the show, and I would agree with cygnusx its is 99% better then the rest of crap on tv, i spend most of my time watching discovery and history channels...and the occasional yoga class

Very nice writeup, Im going to have to give it a try now!

One carb is too many..... But sweet car and sweet setup!

I think the easiest thing to do if you are running aftermarket gauges is an induction sensor off the driveshaft bolts. You can mount it off a bracket on the rear diff crossmember and set your electronic speedo to 4 pulse and then calibrate it. Thats my plan right now.

Hey Myron -- what tach adapter were you using previous, just the autometer adapter from Jegs or have you found another one that works well?

I don't know how people can afford it, Ive always wanted to try it but the cost of tires these days makes it wayyyyyy out of my reach.

Sweeeeet. Man that muffler is WAYYYYYY quieter then my XR-1, I may be switching to your muffler lol just depends on how it sounds out on the street. Im sure your car will be on the road before mine cant wait to hear how you like it.

I have DVD's of 1-6 and 7-12. My girlfriend bought them for me from Malasia via this site; www.acgstore.com/us They are 7 bucks plus 8 for shipping, just search for wangan. Im sure they are bootlegged, the first one has a cheesy DVD menu screen but the second one looks really professional, sweet cover and all. Anyway they are subbed decent enough to understand and the video looks great. I love watching my car on DVD, we've started calling the 240 the Devil Z lol.

Heck YEA!!!! Thats is realllly good news.....to know that it will just fire up on the factory electronics if you don't cut anything is awesome, hopefully more people will start swapping in vq's. Im assuming it revs past 2500rpm correct? VIDEO! VIDEO! VIDEO!!!!

I see what your talking about now on the oil cooler, mine looks just like that. That intake looks Killler, Love the wrinkle red and black together, that and the hidden intake looks really clean. Keep up the good work! Im definitly going to be doing some black powder coating once all the bugs are sorted on mine.