240hoke

how would one go about making an o-ring fuel rail? this is an issue im going to have to deal with soon also. i would lke to make my own jsut for money's sake.

Thanks for the replies guys, the 260 was actually done in by the front hit which kinked hte frame rail in 2 places. I prolly could have fixed this without too much trouble. But in addition the whole rear in is crinkled in. id hate to imagine trying to replace all the panels back there. i havnt got the car torn apart yet, but i would almost bet that the subframe is bent to hell. Anyway looks like ill be doing it up on jackstands, that will make it much easier! Anywa ill let you guys know of my progress. THis is my first tryat body work and the like. Im havnt had much practice at welding either so this should be fun! cheers -austin

Hey guys, I finally found another Z to start rebuilding after the wreck of my 260zt a couple months ago. Its a 1971 240z. Anyway Ive got a good deal of rust to deal with, all in the floor boards though mostly. Ive ordered the zedd findings floor boards and am looking to put in some subframe connectors. But to get to my point, i am curious if when you are replacing the floor pans/rails. Should the car be on jack stands, or on the suspension with everything else taken out?? If its supposed to be on jack stands where shuod lthey be placed? Thanks -Austin ps chekc out website http://www.geocities.com/projectzt

i dunno whats causin your detonation but i would add some more fuel in the two high spots, try and get the afr's to a solid 12. also might be better to do a 3rd gear pull also i also ramped my timing from 20-32 degrees oh, is the pinging audible?? Or is your sds knock sensor picking it up, ecause i could NEVER get my knock sensor to work right, i guess the L is jsut no smooth enough lol. I jsut turned my knock sensitivity al the way down and told it not to retard the timing at all. -Austin

Hey guys Im doing my senior exit project on turbochargin nad the effects it has had on todays automobiles (small displacment engine > big power, more practical diesel engines) etc etc. I was wondering if you guys could point me towards some resources. I have corkys book already but thats it. i could use some internet stuff too but i can find that. Thanks -Austin

Mike good to here about your car. but be careful on that u-joint you dont want it poping on teh street! Not only would it prolly do suspension damage but youll have to get it towed home. id advise throwing a new u-joint in there it only took me about and hour to get the job done. I did a hard bunout and launch and my u-joint starting making a kinda poping grinding sound but it wasnt very loud at all, anyway next time i launched it shreded and flew apart on teh track. had to get it towed home grrrr. Also it will prolly mess up the halfshaft as it elongated the holes in my yokes. ..... Keep boostin! -Austin

hurm maybe i should add a little bit of information to cancel out my worthless post. There isnt anything wrong with building a turbo like that as that is how a t3/t4 turbo is made... I dunno what problem you would run into with balancing but it should work. -Austin

^^^^ My twin lol. -Austin

hey mike, ive got my old hallman manual BC from when iu switched to the greddy profec. Ill let you have it for a cheap price if you want it. -Austin

nice ride, i really like the smooth sided and shaved rear bumper. Lower the front of that thing and it will look mean! -Austin

Thanks for all the replys guys, makes me feel a little better.... The insurance adjuster is going to be coming to take a look at the car soemtime this week, hopefully i will get luckly and get something more then almost nothing for my car. Anyway Im waiting rather impatiently for the insurance guy to come so i can start tearing into her and finding just how bad the damage is. More then likly i will be looking for another shell... if anybody knows of a really nice on please please lemme know It will be a little while before i release the video....but if somebody can host it here in a week or two just lemme know... As for the road conditions the roads were bone dry the tunnel was wet,add to that after the 350z spun, the whole thing was covered with gravel, as you will see on the video it was like ice... The group of drivers were not all young obvios buy the cars.. Poundz0oh9-- i know you werent trying to be an ass..... but One thing that really ticks me off is when people bring age into the picture. Driving is an expirience thing and there are just as many older peple that cant drive as younger people. You have to learn how to drive your car, doesnt matter how long you have been driving if you have never had any expirience in handling your vehicle at its limits (race school, autocross, anything). Age means hardly anything in the world of driving. The speed was fine for the dry road the tunnel was somthing we didnt expect. maybe we should have since its the parkway, so even if we were driving to fast for conditions: never, never blame it on age, or you will show how ignorant you are. Anyway im done ranting too ill keep everyone updated on how things go -Austin ps there is more information about hte wreck on my350z.com under the forced induction section. if your curious about he tt's thats where they post, he put up some good pictures of the rest of the wreck.

that was one of the 350z's. before the wreck obviously, sorry i dont have any pictures of the other one (silver) ill upload the video shortly and find someone to host it... here are a couple other nice cars that were there, well almost all of them were awesome, but these are a couple i really like:

thanks guys ill try and get somemore pictures today but after the wreck we took the hood off to check the engine and saw that front driver side frame rail is buckled pretty bad, its resting against the steering shaft. Anyhow ill have sommore info later today... -Austin

Hey guys, I was up on the Hightach mountain cruise on the blueridge parkway today. Great ride lots of awesome cars... They were filming for a DVD had helicopters, camera mounts .. very cool.... Me and six guys were on the way home having some fun, here was the car order: 350z tt 260zt 350ztt 240sx SVT lancer Anway we were traveling at about ----- or so when we were approaching a tunnel entrance the entrance was soaking wet and the 350 in front of me went into a spin and hit the wall i hit the brakes and slid aroudn a hit the wall too, at this point the 350 in back of me slamed into me and knocked me to the other side of the tunnel. I had no controll and went back across hitting the wall for a total of 3 times and slid out of hte tunnel (200-300' long) 5 car involved 2 totaled others badly damaged. Nobody was hurt thank god, it was a miracle given the speed and amount of cars. It was a shame to see the wreck though these cars were beautiful... Anyway here are some pictures and ive got it all on video: theres a couple more in the general gallery... This car was my pride and joy, im 17 and have put every penny i earned/saved into this car. This car is totaled, i havent had time to take a good look at it but i know the frame is bent, But im not done my engine is still good so i plan on finding another car (240z probably) and starting on it. If anybody could help me locate a car in really good condition that would be awesome. Anyway, i gotta get some rest more tomarrow..... -Austin

Just buy a mod trials bike like me and you can easily throw it in the back -Austin

t67

Z still loks better, i dont care if you cant drive across the contry in it, or have a super nice interior. I mean after all they are 30 years old. And if you put 50K into a 240z i garuentee that you could make the interior/ride/handling/power just as good. If i had 50K i sure wouldnt buy a vette. i ratyher have a M3 or somthing. But just my opinion, i think of vette as great old people cars who want to drive a american sports car. *prepared for bashing*

I would go ahead and buy a new one, they arent very much money and you get a gaurentee. Plus your brake system is something you wantr right. I got a rebuilt one from autozone for like 80 bucks or somthing i think. Anyhow when mine went out the pedal got really stiff. Which is what should happen when the vaccum booster goes out. Your brakes should feel extremely hard to push on and the pedal should hardly go down. Also your engine will rev up from the vacum leak or run like crap. IMO Your mastercyinder is bad and leaking. Ive had this happen several times Anyhow when this happens your brakes will get very mushy and your pedal will eventaully go to the floor, but you will still have some brakes. An easy way to check this is to pull the master cylinder back from the booster and check for break fluid. Replace as nessary (go 15/16" it is was me, so you are set for future mods) Good luck -Austin

I checked into the willwood parking brake caliper that they make. I called willwood and they said that they were on back order for a long time. Also the guy said they they didnt do good at all. He said they were only to hold the car on level ground and he would never trust using them on a hill. So i stayed away from that. he said guys we mainly using them to pass inspection. -Austin

my car blows smoke after letting it idle for a while and then reving it up. I just figured it was worn rings or bad gap. Lemme know if you figure it out. Ive tryed regular oil and synthetics from 10w-30 to 15w-50 and havnt really noticed much of a difference. Im runnig mobile1 10w-30 right now. -Austin

Hey drax, i wanted to give a couple words of warning before you drive it too long. Im running the same manifold as you w/o the heat shield ect, and i didnt have any trouble with it at first. But the heat from the exhaust manifold is starting to bubble the powdercoating on top (i haven't ventured to look at the bottom, ). I also had trouble with the plastic around my wires melting (the wire wrap stuff) so i used some heat prottective sleeving, the foil wrapped cloth with velcro on one side kinda stuff. Anyway if you want that powdercoating to remain nice i would get a heat shield put on there. If i keep my stock manifold next time I take it off im definitly going to be doing some shielding and then it will be re-powdercoated, or maybe even ceramic black. Nice work on the car, looking good! -Austin

Hey Drax, Your engine looks awesome! Nice and clean. I really like that color scheme too -Austin

Well replacing the stock wastegate with the ford housing will help, since it will give you better flow and allow you to get the bigger puck. I personally wouldnt do it because it has a different bolt pattern and is larger, this means you would have to redesign the downpipes. But just swapping the wastegate housing wont get you anywhere, you still need to port out the actual hole in the turbine housing. If it was me i would try getting a larger puck for the stock housing first, and port hte turbo, adn see how that turns out. -Austin

jgkurz - My actuatator is adjustable so i screwed the shaft as short as it could go. Then i made a little plate and put it between the locking nut and the end piece so i could hook a spring on it and then made a plate to hook the spring on to the top where the diaphram is, effectivly pulling the actuator rod in. I am also running a dual port wastegate actuator which puts pressure on both sides of the diaphram. Bernardd - Im running a .82 stage 5 exhuast wheel. There was sufficient room for a 1.5" flapper as you can see. I also am using a ford 3-bolt wastegate from turbonetics. I did have to port it out a bit to match the turbine opening, but nothing major. I ordered my turbo and wastegate from Top end performance, who recommended this wasegate, they said it would allow for much more flow then the nissan unit. Heres a picture of the wastegate housing, before it was ported: ill get some pics up of the spring later -Austin

Sooo..... I dunno if any of you remember but i was having trouble getting my Greddy Profec-SpecII to work properly. It really had me stumped lol. I was getting different boost levels in different gears, and unlimited boost under roll on throttle or 4th and 5th gear. NO matter what i did with the programming i couldnt figure it out. I hooked my Manual controller back up and had similar results at the higher boost pressures., 12+. So i took my actuator completly off the turbo and took it for a drive. I was able to build 10+ psi with the flapper completely open!!!! So I figured out i needed to port out the wastegate hole a bit. I used a die grinder with a carbide bit (this was a lotta fun!, i almost got carried away!) I enlarged it from 7/8" to 1.25" Ity was quite a big increase, but i had room as i am using the Ford 3 bolt wastegate housing with a 1.5" puck. Heres are the pictures: This turned out working very very good. I have absolutly zero ceep. I did run into one problem though, and that was there was alot more pressure on the door and it would blow open the actuator. I had to tighen it all the way and add a spring. But anyhow everything is jiffy now. And yes i said jiffy. 16psi is FUNN!!!! -Austin