240hoke

Alright, ive been looking at jegs and summit for the Dynomax Ultra Flo SS mufflers. They only carry a round 3" in/out muffler. Would this be too loud? Scottie were you runing a 3" round straight through? Anybody running a hooker aerochamber? -austin

haha i wish it was my muffler... its somthing with the computer im almost* confident now, either my mag setup or the computer. Its like im hitting a rev limiter at 5K.

hey yo, i found a Borla ProXS muffler is this what your using? If so are you using a center in center out or an offset muffler? -Austin

hey guys i took my car down to the drag strip a couple weeks ago. l28et in 260z, npr, sds, ect, ect. i was runing 14lbs of boost on the stock turbo. have the stock 3.36 rear end with early 5 spd. Anyhow i cant rev the car over 5000 rpms due to a problem yet to be discovered. At anyrate.... shifting at 4500 i ran a 9.3 in the 1/8. i was hoping for lower but where do you think the car will be when i can get it up to 7K? -Austin

Ok, This is a hard thing for me to come out and say....... but i want a quieter exhaust. Right now i'm running a 2.5" SS downpipe to 3" mandrel bent piping and a single chamber flowmaster. I think it sounds real good, but it's my 1/2 daily driver and I'm tired of not being able to get on the car around town. An im kinda tired of getting nasty looks. Anything over 3K for crusing is obnoxious. So... that said... I want a muff/resonator combo that sounds good but is resonably quiet without adding too much back pressure. What are my options? i was thinking a resonator halfway with an offset dynomax muffler at the end? what you guys opinions/ what are you running. Heres some pics of my current exhaust just to show you how small this single chamber is.... -Austin

I noticed an interesting thing when running 100 oct unleaded in my car. The plugs which are normally rich looking turned completly clean, all except the outer edge of the plus, the cermic piece and all were spotless w/o any depoists.

Bump... Alternativez2003 have you made any progress with your BMW engine install? Im going down at the end of the week to look at and measure some BMW engines. Im looking into newer model engines, but may go with an older m series if cost dictates. Whats the HP rating on yours? -Austin

Alternativez2003, you out there? This is the only other BMW engine post i have seen http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27050&highlight=bmw -Austin

A swap that i have always been interested in and am considering more is the BMW straight 6 engine into my 260z. Preferably a E36 M series engine. It seems like the perfect engine, 333 normally asperated horsepower, and if youve ever driven a BMW you know how smooth they are. At any rate ive been searching around and cant find anybody who has done the swap. Are they any particular reasons? If I can find a M3 engine for the right price I think I may tackle the project, but thats if i can find an engine. -Austin

Ok not many panasports here so i thought i would post: 16x7 Dunlop FM901S 225/50/r16 v -Austin

whoops

hey guys, I've got a set of aluminum hubs on my car ot work with SFZ 12" vented rotors, they are the same bolt pattern at stock. SFZ made my hubs. I believe they came in at 4.5 lbs each, and they are swain BBE coated. At anyrate i think aluminum hubs are a great idea for these aftermarket brake kits and wheels. My input though is on the bearings: My hubs have the exact same deminsions as stock on the inside and have pressed in steel bearing races, everthing fits up the same as stock and there is no wear issue with the aluminum. Here's a few pics. those are metal shavings in the bearing section, just hadn't cleaen it out yet.. -Austin

dont ever order backordered things from MSA they are SLLLLOOOOOWWWW. i ordered mine from Classic datsun and they told me the factory was backordered for three weeks and that when i recieved them in three 3-weeks. They also updated me. MSA would have never done this period. i ordered some mirrors from them and AFTER i had canceled my order i recieved them. This was almost a year after they were ordered! i dont trust MSA on that kind of stuff, plus they are bloody high in all there prices. Sorry for venting, just wanted to give you a FYI btw i hope you like your wheels, i mounted mine with 225 dunlop Fm901 rubber and rolled the fender lip. Worked awesome i love the look. -Austin

I'll start off by saying that i dont know anything when it comes to superchargers. But i wouldnt think that building a box around the carb would be any problem. I would think that with a throttle (cable) you wouldnt have any leakage issues. Just drill a hole in the box and use that for you mounting point then maybe some sealer for the threads. I would also make the top of the box removable so you could service the carb ect with dismantling too much. -Austin

Wow nice work Roggaman, I'd love to see some more pics of your car and some specs! -Austin

i paid 400 for my engine. It had 90K miles on it. But it was also complete well everything except the dist, alt, and starter. -Austin

two cons for Mercedse SEL injectors, i researched them well before deciding on SVO: 1.) Price. Pretty much have to buy them new and that will cost a pretty penny, i think when i checked they were between 200-300 bucks (rebuilt ones too) 2.) On top of buying the injector you must buy new connectors and attach them into your wiring harness. on the SVO injectoers you are only cutting the plastic off the top. The metal actually has a barb on it for the hose and a nissan clamp fits perfect. Fast easy, and they plug right in! Course if you were SERIOUS you would buy an o-ring fuel rail.... -Austin

i'll relate what im using for my setup, i do have a 260zt though but should be the same: 1.) NPR intercoler (medium size) plenty for your goal, maybe overkill like you said. I went ahead with the NPR because i know i will be upgrading in the future as far as the turbo goes 2.)Im useing a Vortec BOV. but it's made to vent to the atmosphere. ANY BOV will work descent and you will find you will pay dearly for a very high quality BOV. You will need a recirculating type BOV, aka bypass valve, if you are running the stock system. Ive heard about people using mitsubishi units here. 3.)Depends on how much $$$ you want to spend. I made all my piping out of 2.5' mandrel bends. I bought several 180's and cut them up and welded them to make all the bends. You could save some cash by cutting and fitting them yourself and taking them to a shop to have them welded. Its a very easy process. BTW i suggest 2.25" piping 4.)Im running The SVO 370cc injectors. They work great, and are easy to modify to work with your barbed fuel rail, they are cheap too! i bought mine off ebay to thet tune of about 50 bucks. They can also be made to work with the stock EFI system, i believe but not certain here. 5.)WOLF technologies is the place to go for a plug and play aftermarket ECU. i would give them a call and talk with them. I think they run in the range of 450 or so. 4K !!!! You can do alot with that kind of cash. As far as the I/C/Plumbing/Injectors/engine managment heres a run down of how much mine costs. Given i did all the work: NPR I/C: $200 -- junkyard I/C Plumbing pipes -- $100 BOV -- $120 Silicon Connectors and clamps -- ~ $100 SVO injectors -- $50 Fuel rail -- $100 Fuel Pump -- $100 Shoot you could throw my engine managment in there too (SDS): -- $1850 Hope this helps -Austin

What about maybe ign retard due to pinging or faulty knock sensor. i would think that would do it. maybe somthing to check out anyway. -Austin Hoke

i forgot to mention i am running a tad more boost. I was running 12 intercooled psi then. -Austin Hoke

When i had some goodyear 185's on my car i could spin the tires all i wanted in first and second, rolling stop ect. in the rain it would break them rolling in third at 40 or so. This was on old crappy tires. When i switched to dunlop FM901 225's the change was amazing. Pretty much only spin in first, some in second if im on it really hard. Get some good tires, you will not regret it. ps. i thought it was fun to spin my tires from a rolling start too, but not only is it slow but it wastes tires. I found that out really quick. -Austin

What about an I/C install do you want to know? There are many people here that can help you. I think you will find we aren't stuck in a time warp, and if we were it would be the 70's . If you are looking into designing a I/C setup or modifing your turbo sytem i would reccmend Corky Bell's book, Maximum Boost. But like i said there is a wealth of knowledge here. So ask away, and dont forget about all the info in the archives, just use the search. -Austin

hey a note of those resoviors. im sure you have probably found some that will work. but i thought i would metion that tilton resoviors work great. i picked mine up at a Muscle motorsports for about 6 bucks. This included new tanks and caps along with new clamps for the bottom , also the filtering screens. They also have screw on caps which i think are alot better than the push on datsun ones. -Austin

I guess just swapping in the bushings wont be too bad of a task, I think the guys above have said just about right. I think another thing that really depends on how long it takes you is how much detail you put into it. I know when i had every suspension piece of my z laying on the floor there was no way i could resist the urge to clean and paint everything to make it look nice, if you get caught up with this it will take u a bit longer. Btw i would just go ahead and order new spindle pins so you can vent all your anger on the orginal ones. -Austin

okay, i didnt read all the posts. But ill share my expirience with the tps. Im am running SDS but the tps reading shouldnt matter. I soldered my wires onto the tps and didnt do a very good job. At anyrate when one would come loose/make a bad connection/ or touch one of the other wires, The car would run like crap. With the tps disconnected the car runs fine. the ecu just get mixed up when the tps is sending wack signals. I would suggect taking the cover off your TPS and checking al the connections -Austin