ovenfood

is there anyone who has fitted a short nose R200 or similar to a S130? i have been searching all over for someone who has and now my brain hurts i was going to make up a bracket similar to what they do to the S30 but obviously our diff mounting is different, i can see this could be a challenge and if anyone who has done it has any tips that would be great :>

S13 silvia coil overs bolt into the rear if you ether drill your strut tops to handle the 2 bolt style http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/thumb/a/a3/S13_redrillstruttowersmall1jy.jpg/550px-S13_redrillstruttowersmall1jy.jpg or make a plate that changes the suspension from 2 to three bolt like a stud pattern changer http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:nhZuUsEaSrN67M:http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/BMX_Munky/100_4017.jpg&t=1

so far, the motor is basically in sump is in the pipe works, suspension is on hold until we retrofit a R200 shorty to the rear :> thats all so far its going a tad slow i know but we get such little time to work on it :<

im sorry but the pictures will be disabled till the project is finished

thats just cardboard but one day they will be proper :>

its not complete but ill get more pics and sizes soon

i know every one has an engine cross member and there are mostly the same but has anyone noticed this stamp in the center... its like you get a present when you remove the engine :> nissan just beg's you to modify you car...

look the quickest way to install a NEO into a S130.....

side pipes and running rich.... ahh love that difference

the engine sits good with the rb30 mounts from the R31 ill get pics this WE hopefully get the box in aswell :>

yes any info is helpfull :>

hey guys next week im starting design and fabrication of a rear sump primarily to fit an RB25DET NEO with R31 mounts in a S1 S130 (recirculating ball type power steer) but back far enough to also fit on an RB20DET silver top with R31 mounts S2 S130 (rack and pinion power steer) and most likely going to try have it so no modification is needed to the block (like drilling a hole so it is rear pick up - all though a custom pick up will be needed) initial estimates on price are $600-$700 AUD we are located in south brisbane australia and if you would like to have one made pm me or post here :> leon please get in contact with me soon as we only want to do group orders :> i am only making one extra at this stage,

when you do what i have done on the front you get positive camber even at max negative camber on the adjustable camber tops. so we have opened the top hole so to adjust the camber even more :> here is a pic of a normal hks coilover a tannabe coilover which has a opened top hole standard and because i always forget which is negative and positive camber :>

question on styling what you you guys think of the rear 1/4 glass in the 2nd + 3rd last pic?

also some beauty shots

this is the unmodified setup this is a bad picture of what the camber was like and with the correction ill take more pictures when i have a chance

yes i did look into that a while back when i said S13 arms i meant the adjustable ones and i have plans to relocate the pivot point on the cross member higher and further out (helping correct the lowering of the car and shorter arms), but first things first we need this car running :>

ill post pics soon sry got the S13 knuckles/ hubs R33 GTST front brakes front and rear S13 HKS coil overs (oval top hole on the front to correct the camber issues) camber tops now this is not what i would call a perfect formula as the angles of the holes in the knuckle force you to have your ball joint and control arm joint at bigger than normal angles and as i have not fully tested it i wont say its 100% safe but i have plans to remedy this (S13 LCA's like the S12 guys do :> and bent control arms) but we only get the weekend to work on it and we are no experts so its going slow :> good news engine is one more adjustment of the cross member away from proper placement then ill measure up the clearances and draw up a flat patten of the sump and go welding :> i even have a block i can use to hold the sump while its welded to stop warping.

its still the standard 4 stud we are just keeping it simple to start with, well there is a few ways to do this depending on your budget and parts availability, again keeping it simple we are opening the top hole in the bottom of the coil overs and when we get it right we are going to tack a washer in place, we are using hks coil overs and they are made of strong steal and this would not be a good idea on something weaker like the ones made out of aluminum. my memory card died and i lost alot of pictures so ill have to get new one this weekend :>

just remember the cheaper you want it to be the more common it has to be E.G. buy a S13/R32 lol

no these comments are welcome i was just going to make my own but ill check that out :>

first of all do some research this forum has a lot of info of people doing those swaps in both S30's and S130's second 500rwhp out of anything is big dollars especially if you are paying someone to build it, remember when thinking of getting more power you need to think can your brakes, diff, tail shaft, body and tires handle it? because whats the point of having power if your car cant handle it and you crash :< i don't know what the laws and prices are like in your area but something like a VH45 may be some where in between a LSX and a CA18, a VQ30DET out of a maxima +RWD box where i am is a relatively cheap and powerful swap and there seem to be strong engines not to mention light

HKS coils (bilstein inverted shock copys) i believe the RB25DET NEO is going in friday yay my first custom engine swap :>

found some on his my-face-space-book page