ovenfood

Thats a pretty pimp crusier (it would be a fair talking point especialy if you took it to a z club meet....

I must agree it would be hot as if it was as low as your's :> (I think it would prob need tubs though) I know glitter is cheaper but pearlescent paint or some mad candy would give it another +5 points IMO :>

I have never been a fan of glitter paint :<

If anything I'd get a R31 crossmember and turn it around or something to that effect, also the mounts on SR20's is odd so an S13 crossmember is really not a great thing :<

Thats with R31 rubber mounts (I am pretty sure the rubber bit is the same between all of the models) and R31 metal brackets approx 1 inch off the fire wall and 3-3.5 inch from block to crossmember (those numbers are from memory...) the R32/R33/R34/C33 etc are a more forward mounted engine so I believe the mounts will sit your engine about 5 inchs more forward (don't quote me on that)

I can see why you broke an axle........ (I love the idea of having a RB26DET - my favorite recent engine)

Yes but there is nothing saying that you have to weld it on at the same angle as the Z31 guys do. I wonder if the front bracket could still be used just facing inwards instead of outwards. I think at best this is a good refrance and the same affect could be achived using similar methods. (especially for Australians I think this could be "copied" and done cheaper than for us to buy one and have it shiped here)

knock yours out measure it up and go to your nearest machine shop :> win

The other option is always to order yourself aluminum bushes for the S13 cradle from a machine shop and get them to make the hole 7/8 :>

http://zilvia.net/f/z-chassis/371818-awd-s30z-build.html that link takes this idea to another place...

Might want to not show the mod plate guy your handbrake setup, I am pretty sure that you cannot have a hydraulic handbrake as your e-brake in Australia.

Get the 7/8, stick it in a drill/drill press, spin it up, apply 80 grit sand paper till at desired diameter, buff, apply corrosion inhibitor and paint (thinly). Bam! I know thats a little crass but it's cheap and it "will" work. Nissan stuff is always metric in my experience. In my opinion you may find it easier to pull the old pins of a S13/ most Nissan's and use them :>

Yes mod plates :>. Sweet I was going to wait till after I finish all the mods as well :>. How did you go with the GTR brakes on the back, did you use a dog leg bracket? did you use the internal drum setup as your handbrake?

did you get yours blue plated? (or don't you do blue plates in tas?)

$8k thats including every thing you posted right?

No I found it on R31.com or something similar. I'll be doing it on a mate's S130 first as I have kind of stopped most car related activity's (just bought a house....). But I am semi confident if I cut it right I can weld it on in a way that will make it look good (not going to explain it because more than likely I won't get it right and have to go another way :<). If all goes to plan me and soopakarr are going to sit down this week-end and work out what we need and get one of his S13 rears prepped so I can start the brackets/ spacers.

This is how I was going to do the front mount (pic of a HR31 - front mount cut and a new section to e welded in) hopping it looks less dodgy if inspected :> any thoughts?

Personally the 20B would be interesting and if I had 20k to use on my engine I think it would be worth looking into :> http://www.viczcar.com/member-rides/matthew-clemeshas-20b-rotary-powered-73-240z By the way you said you don't like US v8's what about Japanese v8's? VH45 or VK56 "could" work :> they sound nice and are used to power a few Japanese race cars :>

I'd listen to him, Frank280zx saved me a fair bit of fab work on another guys car. The R31 mounts are like $20 AUD and then the rubber mounts can come from nissan if they are cracked and need replacing :> and on the rear to me a S13 rear makes so much sense both financially and modification wise.

ok :> Whats the advantage if you don't mind me asking.

I'm sure it's not imperative to have custom bolts made up. I saw what he is doing and was very tempted to buy the kit but as I am in AUS I think I'll just use it as inspiration :> also I know it makes it less reversible but I like the idea of the pins going through the rail.

hey I was just talking to 260DET and he linked me to http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27070 also http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22

Nice effort :> I think you should of visited here sooner. There may be some other brake/suspension options you may not of considered. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94002-how-to-install-s13-coilovers-on-280zx-and-poly-bushings/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95443-j-rex-from-team-shogun-s130-with-s13-coil-overs/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90044-my-new-coil-overs/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99716-s13-rear-coilovers-in-my-280zx/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99489-found-a-rotor-for-my-5-lug-swap-out-back/ There is so much info out there I would hardly call your suspension/brake options limited :>

Ok so measureed it up quickly and it seams that the pin holes (its all i could get to measure) are all the same contrary to what I had been told :S