ovenfood

do you know what speed it was capable of?

^^^ Standard suspension with cut springs , just kidding. What ever it is, it sure looks like twin injectors per cylinder :S

from what I understand there is a fair amount of S13 240sx's in the US. Also why if you cannot get the cars in the US is there so many aftermarket stuff for S13's in the US, on that note you should have nissan D20's in one way shape or form so as to get C200 lsd diff centers from. Im not familiar with the ford 8.8 but if you guys can make it work that sounds awesome

Any way you skin the cat there are positives and negatives. Those +'s and -'s are different for everyone, like for me it was cheaper by a long shot to use a C200 lsd in my R200 long nose but some people don't have that option. Lucky for me I could use ether if I wanted to due to the almost free spares I have acquired :> and honestly I think the easiest way with the most benefit that I have seen is to swap in an S13/R32 or S15/R33 rear. If all your looking for is aftermarket support than that's what I would do.

^^ Would weigh a tone... try these pictures From memory its a datsun 1600 rear end. I found it on OZDAT.com the link is in a few threads here but I'll have to find it later. Best way I have seen it done IMO

sweet

any progress?

do you have the D20 nissan pathfinders there? The 4x4 one's with an LSD have a diff center that fit. The issue wit the R200 out of the S13 is that the bolt holes are 12mm instead of 10mm and to fit the half shafts require either a modification or a complete change depending on which diff you get.

love the rims

@tecreatta, I know, how nice is it :> AUS and NZ have all the fun :> and that C110 of mine is my life its been the car I wanted since I could say car. It just so happens I also bought the 1st one I ever saw (10 years after seeing it) and my aunt was the only person to own it before me :>

double post

I was thinking about this thread while looking through old pictures and I remembered R30 skylines have a mix of S13 and S130 components so you may be able to use a R30 TC rod and sway bar and S14 LCA's (or maybe R30) here is a pic of a R30 front setup pardon the sillyness its the only photo of an R30 that I have

tis ok I will just keep doing back yard body mods to the rat rod

weld on sleve's IMO are the easy/ cheap option and I would recomend it if you are just using your car on the street. I mainly did it because I like engineering things and wanted to know how to do it. I looked at the aftermarket S13 LCA's / TC rods and they are not long enough even with full addjustment + like PPK said too much un-necessary work. And if you were going to go down that route than just make you own LCA's The ball joints I used were S130, the S13 ones are appart of the LCA. I also looked at doing something similar to the maxima ball joint solution but I don't see it as being a good way to solve the problem. If you were to extend the LCA's an inch to correct camber remember you are increasing the force applied to the TC rod. IMO just slot the top hole on the strut bracket as showen in the link and get camber tops. You can get more camber than you really need and its is a safe option. Note also that to fit camber tops you ether have to space them down or cut away the strut top mount so the addjusting screws can fit in.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95443-j-rex-from-team-shogun-s130-with-s13-coil-overs/ try searching first I am trying this on a C110 also. I believe next time I will use S14 gear the LCA's are longer. I personally would recommend not using S13 LCA's they are shorter. some quick notes: For the most simple way get the S13/S14/S15 spindle + brakes (any from the stock S13 NA to the Z32/GTR brakes but remember if the hydraulic surface area is changed on only the front brakes than your balance will be out) S13/S14/S15 coil overs and wheels to clear your brakes. new brake lines/seals/pads would be good take the spacer out of your sway bar bush new ball joints might be good also (nice and cheap in the US) and depending on your setup you may need to slot the top hole in the coil overs. you will need an alignment hope I didn't miss too much

why not put a KA24DET in? you guys in the US are lucky to have them...

I don't know what it could be but would your computer be receiving a signal from the knock sensor? I am unsure if this would affect it but just thought I would mention it...

also another point are you not in NZ the land of cheap jap cars... IMO buy a RB20DET nissan did it right the 1st time :>

holy hell you just made my day I REALLY want those nismo headers :> I wonder if they fit the C110 I think those headers look amazing. 37 inch runners or some thing... the L31 is going to make so much torque :> /rant

I have heard (only on forums) that the to ring wears too quickly, but I know people with L31's and it does not seem to affect them. A friend of mine has a L31 powered 240k 4door (C110) and it is a rally car. His car is not registered and is 100% race orientated. From what he has told me it was about the same as what I have seen in most builds (LD28 crank, L24 rods, KA24 pistons, triple webbers) the car goes like stink :> now as far as the pistons go he has basically found the cheapest cast pistons he can (bout $80 a pop) and he said he can rev to approx 6,000 with out too much trouble. The only issue he gets is after a year of rally's sitting the engine at almost 7,000 all day he gives it a rebuild (replaces the pistons/rings). So from what I have seen cast pistons are great for anything up to spirited daily driving. I am yet to build mine so I can not give first hand experience

Just thought I would hijack this thread just another way a guy in Australia has put a R200 shorty in a 1600 rear. I was originally going to do something similar but multi-link is win.

I personally believe your mate is correct to a point. Not due to it being wasted spark but just that the coils are more likely to be in better condition and the turbo RB's love a good spark. The 25 computer may work I have heard of some interchangeability but I am not sure. Best advice I can give is look into a nistune chip for like $250 and full tune ability it is pretty win. The side mount will be fine for running the car in getting it setup and saving some money, but its probably not a bad idea to buy a 400x300x75 FMIC for $100 off ebay (don't go too big you don't have a massive engine)

IMO if you are talking about using the coils from a holden v6 (buick v6) I think its a great idea, 1st reason: if one breaks there is milions around to relpace it for cheap. 2nd reason: having the coils not in the valley and having them in a cooler place will keep their temp down and reliablility up. 3rd reason: they are easy 1/4 to 1/2 the price of super spark or even standard replacements from nissan. :> and to be honest if you can't find info on RB's in SAU, boostcruising, nissan silvia or something like that you're not looking hard enough :> (not trying to be mean but the info should be there)

I'm sure a few people have asked already but I'm dead tired and don't want to go searching for the answer, why is you engine vertical as apposed on an angle is it a clearance thing?

hows your exhaust? standard? how about a straight 2 3/4" pipe :> could put an RB20DET in it for that :>