ovenfood

What was you "KAAZ" designed for? I always thought short R200's had 12mm crown wheel bolts.

R33's are wide cars so I wasn't too surprised. I may get to measure up an S13 this evening, but don't expect pics straight away as its at my mates house :>

Thats about as much as I can think of measuring. The only thing missing is the R200 long nose diff length. Measured with a tape measure and hopefully minimal parallax error.

Now I compare the pictures there really are not that different. :\

Here is some pics I intend on displaying the measurements in a way that makes more sense but this will do for now :> http://s657.photobucket.com/albums/uu298/ovenfood/R33%20and%20S130%20rear%20cradle%20comparison/

R32 (Skyline) Z32 (300ZX) S13 (Silvia - 180SX) C33 (Laurel) and A31 (Cefiro) all have a very similar rear cradle from what I have seen all have the struts pitching inwards. The R33 is still very similar but the struts are more vertical. :> Want some pics? I have the R33 and S130 cradle down stairs. :>

From what I have seen you could use a C200 CLSD if you have a early R200 open with the 10mm bolts in the ring gear (I am yet to try as my car is broken at the moment). Though there is the same problem mine and all I have seen don't have provisions for the internal snap-ring.

I told a friend of mine about this and he was like "I'm throwing a few S13's away" and his S130 needs a rear so i think I'll be watching this thread rather closely. That or you may inspire me to put the R33 rear on his but he wants that for the C110.

Sweet because the only guy I have seen do this did a butt tone of fabrication. { http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-000.htm } Here is the 20 pages that are about the swap. 1 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-329.html 2 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-330.html 3 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-331.html 4 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-332.html 5 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-333.html 6 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-334.html 7 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-335.html 8 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-336.html 9 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-337.html 10 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-338.html 11 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-339.html 12 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-340.html 13 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-341.html 14 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-342.html 15 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-343.html 16 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-344.html 17 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-345.html 18 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-346.html 19 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-347.html 20 http://www.takkun.net/dri-z-348.html

Well the pin that holds the strut onto the knuckle is angled downwards. I'm assuming that would make the strut bush quite stressed, as the strut stands a few degrees more vertical. Hence my original intention to inspect the R33 cradle for fitment.

Nothing a grinder and welder can't solve..... :/

Thats pretty dam cool :> How is the angle of the strut? Is the pin sitting nicely in the lower strut hole or is it angled?

Was looking into this and I assumed the strut was not going to fit through the S13 upper link and into the strut top. I hope I'm wrong :> but if for some reason you have a R33 rear multi link lying around it looked like measures up better and once my shed is done (july-ish) I could look closer into it. I think I'm gonna stick with semi trailing arm though as I have to many goodies for my current setup.

na engines do have to worry about cam lag though, the added weight is barely noticeable in most applications (worried about weight drive a striped car and maintain a lean body mass index). a turbo car does not need to make an excessive blow off sound if plumbed correctly.... both options have there ups and downs i find the question is not about turbo or NA, V8 or straight 6 ect... its how do you want to make your power (eg low down torque or reving till 11k or somewhere in between) also do you want to go with an engine for and aesthetic reason eg pop culture reference, restoring. then when its all said and done is it better to spend $30k+ and make a L31ET or $2k and use an RB20det (or RB30ET) and with an other $2k or so get a real close result ~ have fun with your dilemma i decided to build an L31 and one RB20DET one for aesthetics and one for speed and cost

^^^ Are/were they alive??

Getting into 4th cloud of been interesting especially if you had worn synchros

My friend bought a AE86 that had a battery relocated to its boot. It had a 4k dead spot/ flutter that sounds the same as you describe and he replaced the battery leads with bigger stronger ones and the problem was solved. I don't know much about turbos I am just giving an example.

Well cutting springs is not a very good idea unless you love super soft springs.... Also buying a few sets of springs, not cheap. It would be cheaper and easier to whack some S13 rear coil-overs in and then you only need to get a 2 to 3 bolt pastern changer, or just drill the strut tops its a quick safe and cheap option. But Ill give you 20 points for inventiveness, It was people who think out side the box that invented the wheel.

^^^I was going to ask the same question. I currently have the option of 17x9.5 or 16x8. I think for a sub 300hp/1300kg car 16x8 should be good with the standard road tires, right?

The back is the standard suspension setup, The front has had the s13 hubs put on it (not sure how it affects offset). I was told they are 10" wide -19 offset but they are rotas so they may be 9.5" wide.

You could drill 3 extra holes in those 300zx tt brake rotors, Its very common in aussie.

I did the same thing with my 40" TV. The sales guy was trying to tell me that LCD TV's can not be laid down flat, wrong. And to make it better it was raining so i was like BAM in you go TV and cruised off.

http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/old_car/nissan_old_car.html ^^^^ The people who make the LCA's That S130 model is amazing. The amount of detail that the artist went to is incredible. http://chidorishika.blog117.fc2.com/blog-category-3.html

I put the crane back in :>

I have been getting all my badges from ukstar76 on ebay. He sells a fair bit of C110 gear though I have seen a bit of S130 badges from time to time :>