ovenfood

There are many ways to skin your rear ended cat. There are a lot of threads on this subject, from long R200 open swaps to long R200 + short R200 centers to long R200 + C200 straight axle centers to S13 cradle swaps.... almost everything has been done so pick what you think suits your application if its a sub 500hp road car the R200 will be fine from what I have seen the R180 will last a month to six months in a 250hp+ roughly driven car :S (been through 5 now ) and R230 is obviously the strongest but will take the most money and time to fit. hope that helps IMO: R200 open + 2J in a road car on street rubber should not have any issues.

drive really fast and do lots of hard brakeing and you may seat them a little better took me a month to get mine seated. :>

I like your build :> and that KE70 wagon in the last of the 964 pictures is hot (sorry but they are my favorite toyota)

you could always go down to your local body shop and they could add some glass and "make it fit" :>

I have heard that apexi will normally repair the boards for $100 (don't know if its just australia though)

I also doubt there would also be an advantage if you put vortex generators on an undertray. We use vortex generators on planes to create lamina flow over the flight controls because if the air does not flow over them its the planes equivalent of driving on ice

also there is an old trick I got taught that gets it off without reefing it. I personally take the nut off (but you can leave it on a little bit) then smack all around the wheel with your fists like banging on a door but harder. Go around 2 or 3 times and then it will just come off with a small amount of force. It took me a few times to do it the first time but its easy as :>

I would buy those fenders but since I am literally on the other side of the planet I think it would be too much in freight hope it goes well for you though

My mate had boost issues and I added a washer under each of the bolts where the WG attaches (to space it out) and it worked fine after that (his waste gates gate was just flapping around before I did that). Other than that I have almost no experience with car turbos so I'm not sure if I can help.

I am even going to have 16" rims so I have a decent amount of profile to absorb some bumps (most of the roads here are rubbish so any bigger than 16" is too rough IMO)

look at it this way if you have the money/ time or skill/ experience why not it may not do much but I doubt it will hurt... :> Having said that, how stiff do you want your car? On a smooth track stiffness is wicked but on the road it will be twitchier and more of a hand full when you hit bumps when you make you car too stiff.

Yes its a 2+2 note the rear window shape. And its easier than that to know if its R200 if the bolts are about 7 13/16 inch (7.8" or 20cm) from left to right. I just roughly measured it. If its a bit less that its an R180 The drain hole plugs make me think its a R200 (R200's seem to be internally wrenching and R180s seem to have a protruding square drive) http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50499-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq/

To me that looks like the standard R180 with uni joints (well thats a guess because no 79 280zx's I've seen in Australia have R200's) it will be easier to be more confident if you take a picture from the back (facing forward) this is not the best angle but it does look skinny.

nice front 1/4's and lower front lip :>

I run NGK's I can't remember what they are. I "think" BP6ES (its one option hotter than standard) but that was due to my car not running right (it was water injected via the head gasket..) it helped and my mate ran his on (Champion N9YX) on cyl 1-5 and on cyl 6 it had (NGK BPR6ES) (I only know that because its on the floor of my garage) his ran fine before he took the engine out. I think the NGK plug was from his RB20DET. I hope this kind of helps.

A gun barrel drill bit has a almost flat cutting edge and does not have cutting edges on it's flutes. So you should (given that you dill correctly) get a perfectly round hole. I don't know the best way to do what you are asking I only suggest a gun barrel because I was thinking of using a reamer to get the hole and a gun barrel to get the seat (just because I have the lying around and I am quite good at precision free hand drilling).

Sweet thanks for those reply's :>

Yes, sorry "rear fender". I am just not keen on having to cut up the rear fenders to fit my wheels but if it has to be done :/

Oh yes I totally forgot that the RB has its hot bits on the drivers side in the US, sorry. But in RHD cars or LHD with Toyota engines the space is reasonably decent. Still I was curious if there is something special about having the turbo high other than spacial reasons. Is there something about the flow of the air going up instead of down an advantage?

It is around my area Are you intending on stitch welding that to your chassis rail? Also to bring up the S13 R33 comparison again I don't think I will have as much clearance issues on the front with the R33 rear. As the LCA front mounting point on the R33 does not stick up as much potentially hitting the frame rail. Also because I have a S13 rear in the garage at the moment it really looks that extra bit wider :S so guard clearance is going to be fun

Depending on how big you want to go you should be able to fit a decent turbo in the space though.

LOL at the custom car work + beer :> nice one. (are you sure your not an aussie?)

So I have looked around and the only place I could find information to answer my question was in a Honda forum. Having said that I still want to clear some things up. Is there a real advantage of a top mounted turbo? The way I see it is there may be an improvement due to equal runner length, but I don't understand why it has to be high. Is there a reason why it's high and not low with equal runner length? I would assume low would be better due to a straighter dump pipe, and therefore a little less congestion straight after the turbo. On a personal note I am going with the standard RB log manifold for cost effectiveness, I just want to know why people choose high mount other than to "bling" their engine bay.

Yes head gasket. Have you tried a new dizzy cap or a new dizzy?

Ii had similar problems, my problem was a leaky gasket tho (I think). Got down to like 4.5 cylinders once. But I never fixed it just kept driving :>