AZGhost623

Well this was surely a long saga, almost 3 years in the making. I wont go into all the issue with Slovers Porting, but poor dude had some many problems with his business. I dont think a port job should take 3 years lol, but I finally got it back after the dang thing apparently got stolen from his shop as well. the only thing I never got was the flow numbers. I've followed back up with Mike. Might have to find someone local who can flow it up here in Seattle, and then get a custom cam made for it. Anyways, its a monster... Largest valves you can put in it, and 12:1 CR. Funny thing is, this took so long to do, I gave up on it, and started going with a Turbo setup albeit slowly since i moved to Seattle recently. update got the flow numbers from Mike this morning. Good numbers? The exhaust side seems a bit low. Seems like some have been able to get up to about 137-139.... Superflow 600, flowed at 28" Intake Side: 500 Lift 208cfm 600 Lift 211cfm Exhaust side: 500 Lift 114cfm 600 Lift 117cfm

40s are really small for that engine build, you should be running 45's. Hopefully you have a good header on it too.

I found this old post which is exactly what I was looking for, but it didn't answer all my questions. The guy who posted it also hasn't been around in several years once I checked his account info and his youtube to talk about performance over what he had stock. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111329-modified-turbo-manifold-for-twin-scroll/ On the stock setup, as you know, 4 cylinders are trying to squeeze past one hole as it enters the collector. As far as relocating it, my largest concern would be the integrity of the manifold where the new collector would be located and of course modifying everything else to work with the relocation as pointed out in the original posters post. If a turbo support was used I assume it would help a lot. I also assume this would help a lot with scavenging and the exhaust pulse all being on the same side (with exception to cylinders 2 and 5 being on opposite sides needed.) But looking at that dodge diesel intake manifold, it doesnt seem like thats a big concern since its done the same way. Has anyone else done this mod before? Can anyone else offer some insight on performance over just a regular porting of the manifold? Its seems like there are more benefits that cons from what I can tell. Thanks!

Tease!

I've been seeing them for $700-$800 USD when I was looking.

Took this one today. Super happy how it turned out! Super big for those that want it. https://i.imgur.com/QY5ctzw.jpg

Thanks man! Im super happy with it. Literally thrown together within 24 hours to get it there. Paint isnt even finished yet, the painter who was supposed to cut/buff it quit on Friday. So the shop said to just take it and they will finish with the cut/buff/clear later. That is literally paint booth paint only! Color is Arena Red. Super car color. Saw it on a Porsche 918 Spyder and knew it was the color I had to get. Per Gallon price was 1000$ for the color alone. Go big or go home right?

Finally complete! Super large image for those that want it. 5328x2388 http://imgur.com/3MZQeSe Safe for website 1024x576.

Just an FYI - CA Datsun/Datsun Parts does not build their own engines. They outsource it to a company called "R Rated Motorsports". My first engine literally fell apart from Datsun Parts. Rockers kept flying off, springs worn. Block was not decked, lots of problems/short cuts. Sent same engine off to rebello to have rebuilt properly. Nothing like buying to engines within the same year! Do it right the first time and use a quality builder.

According to the guy who did it, it seems like a lot of work aside from sourcing a Datsun T5 trans for the bell housing alone.... That Z32 adapter is looking a lot nicer than this... Someone needs to get on Hoke to make more of those adapter plates or at least publish the cad files so we can make them ourselves if hes stuck on not making them. "The problem is that once the Datsun T5 bellhousing is bolted to the adaptor, a Datsun T5 front bearing retainer will be needed. The issue from this point is that the T56 input shaft does not reach the back of the crankshaft, or even the flywheel so the T5 bellhousing was milled and welded to an aluminum adaptor plate and a GM pilot bearing was placed in the aluminum flywheel. It is more than a simple bolt in as the steel adaptor and the T5 bellhousing would both have to be milled" I dont mean to digress from the great work Derek is doing, but this is a real concern I have and just want to understand the options that are available before 10k+ is spent on this kind of setup.

so pardon my ignorance here... but with all this potential torque the engine can produce, what kind of transmission options are available to handle this? Its not like collins adapters has plates for an L28, and hoke has been out of stock on the Z32 adapter plates for sometime... The B boxes might work fine for a while, but repeated abuse will take its toll alot quicker on those. Longevity and reliability through repeated abuse is the issue I would think. SX C boxes are getting harder to find because the drift crowd is beating them to death. I dont see anyone making 350/370Z trans adapters either... so what are the options for a good trans to mount to the engine with this setup?

Some contour work on the front gnose to the fender and trying to make the front flow a bit with the rears. Drivers side is somewhat done. The passenger side was trimmed, but not fully contoured yet for comparison. Im thinking it might need to sweep in a bit more, but so far i think it looks a lot better and lost that catfish look it had before. Before comparison. You can see how much has really been trimmed off that flare on the nose to fender transition.

Just find a new block, cheaper than blowing out a cylinder wall because its too thin. 89 is pretty much the limit, some can goto 90, but they are carefully selected and thoroughly tested before its actually bored over that big.

Getting close! There's a lot going on, with minor changes, but here are a few snippets. You might be able to see some of the changes in this picture below. Should have paint next week! And then that process starts with sanding all over again. RAIN GUTTER DELETE. If you look carefully you might see some hot pink on the roof support. Apparently when we got down into it a bit, we found more. Car was hot pink at some point in its life... some people! Rear Valence fill. Its sitting odd because a jack is under the drivers side. Z Emblem Quarter panel delete:

When will something like this be available?

Yes. The flange is very thick. When you say "stock" like a Nissan part? Did they come from the factory with a header? Or was that a 'dealer option' of some sort?

So went and picked it up today, got it pretty cheap so no worries if its junk. Here are some additional pictures. Small dent on the rear #1 runner. Are the holes up on top something to do with emissions? Maybe some kind of EGT or O2 sensor ports? main pipe to muffler measures 2.25" runners measure 1.65" to the collector Exhaust ports 3 and 4 measure 38mm Exhaust ports 1, 2, 5 ,6 measure 30mm

the pictures dont come through... The shop that has my car things the stock gas flap bracket hing may be too strong to be used on the fenders and may crack it over time with stress. Would be curious on a long term trial and see what your results are as that was my first suggestion to them to reuse the bracketry for the gas flap door.

First thought was a clifford research header, but i am not too sure... Its got some kind of EGT port on each exhaust port. Also told its got a 2.5" diameter. It came off a 240Z. And Im told its a square port. Im going to go check it out tomorrow morning.

Ok I'll play... not a turbo but you said it was L28's only. 1976 280Z L28 F54 BLOCK BIG BORE - REBELLO 3.0L CAST KIT (Pistons Cast 89mm | 240z Prepped Rods) P90 CYLINDER HEAD WITH STREET PORT REBELLO CAM 279/.487 MSA 6-2-1 HEADERS 2.5" ELECTROMOTIVE XDI IGNITION 10LB FLYWHEEL DCOE 45'S - (End of day settings at dyno shop - 38mm Choke | 145 MAIN | 160 AIR | 65F9 IDLE | F11 ) KAMEARI INTAKE Dyno sheet from Rebello doesnt match up to what I produced, but it was his induction system and exhaust and at Flywheel not at wheels which mine was. Also the AFR's on this were not good when I was dyno tuning it for a day as you can see. Its been corrected some what, but I need another day. Those AFR's should be a lot more flat it was a good first idea to what i got. They also couldnt figure out where timing should be. I have corrected on my own due to research, and been to a drag strip, but need to have it re-dyno'd at some point. Long list of to do's, but this engine is going away late next year anyways..

Doing a lot of work over summer months in AZ. Had a very hard time with body work, as the second hardner was added to bondo I had literally 10-20 seconds to work with it in 110 degree heat in my garage before it hardened up. So I have stripped the car down to metal, and blended in the rear quarters as well as other work. Lots of work on weekends to get the GNOSE repaired as well since this piece had some really bad spots in it. (300ZX Pop up headlights were cut out, had to patch and fill it) Met a cool dude here in town through the local Datsun club who is going to finish up all the rest of the body work and a few other things I want him to do and get it painted. The paint color alone on this car ran me $1000 for what I wanted. A more modern take on the original metallic red wine color. Probably about 7-10k worth of work to still do on this thing on the body along with prime, block and color the car. I surely must be a crazed Z nut to spend this much $$ on an old Z. I seriously feel like I am on pimp my ride or something because someone else is doing the work for the first time and I know its going to be crazy awesome when its finished. Anyways, took it out for a drive last night to get a tank of gas in it, and then drove it out to his shop where he will have it for the next 30 days. http://imgur.com/a/dLfJm