AZGhost623

Wheel Sizes 15 and 16. Let me know what you got. Vintage or Modern.

No, I bought the kit without the GNOSE lip (dont have a GNOSE). However there is a "works" front air dam on EBAY that looks pretty trick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-JDM-Works-Style-Front-Spoiler-Air-Dam-NEW-30-J4501-/380997789285?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58b53ce665&vxp=mtr Ill need to find some good strong wheel spacers to help fill it out the new arch. Anyone know a good brand to run/get?

Its changed... 38 choke 160 main 230 air 60F9 F7 Tube 00 Pump 45 Pump Jet Initial Timing is 14, all in at 34. Anything below 60F9 doesnt work for me with the lean spot. Was supposed to get it dyno tuned a few weeks ago, but got horrible food poisoning and wasnt able to make it out there. Im set to redo my dyno tune on the 12/22 when I have vacation for 2 weeks. I have pretty much every combination you can do for jets, tubes and such, so we will see where I end up.

these triples run rich from my experience, and from what I have seen and read on the internet backs that up too. The flat spot/stumble is a lean spot. It could be one of the carbs itself or it could be all of them. Check the plugs to see if they are consistent looking between all of them. Make sure they are all pulling the same amount of vacuum and adjust as needed. FWIW My idle is also around 11ish. Normal driving is 13-15ish, full WOT is 11-12ish.

I bought a set, so Ill let you know.

Anyone know the dimensions of these things? I plan to order a set from rhdjapan.com before the end of the year. I need to know how big of a spacer I need on the wheel to help fill it out until I can get some custom wheels made (next year). I run 16x8's now, and they stick out about .25" to .5" from the fendor now or so with 205/55's. Not running coilovers, just tokico illuminas... Any leads on good spacers (afraid of ebay chinese stuff) would be helpful too. Thanks!

Well Ill be damned... they fit surprisingly well! Other than the about a foot you have to trim off, and the toupe color (inside of seal) its a super fit! Strange how overly excited I am about this lol... its the little things Part numbers I purchased from kia was 82110-1F000EZ and 82120-1F000EZ $81.78 for parts ($40.89ea), $16.95 for shipping. $98.73 total.

Yes I converted to the internal regulator on the last failure.Finding a junkyard alternator may be a problem out here... I found a used one from a member on here... 40$... came off an engine with 140k miles on it. Hope it was changed out at some point during its lifetime. Has the nissan stickers on it so looks legit. Ill give it a go, and get the one replaced so I have a spare on shelf now. I cant believe that all remanufactured alternators are crap. There has to be some good brands no? Rock Auto lists several ... ACDelco? Pure Energy? Remy?

2nd Alternator in a year to have gone bad now, with a bad regulator. Not sure if wiring harness or just bad luck. I want to do a simple 2 wire hook up with the new replacement alternator. The T Connector from what I have seen has a "Sense" and a "Field". Are either of those related to the voltmeter in the car or regulator in the alternator? Can they be omitted? I want to bypass as much of the original harness as possible for now by doing this setup. and FWIW, drove over 90 miles on battery with headlights on, with battery only. Optima Yellow Top batteries rock!

What kind of modifications are needed to make that kind of setup work on your 280?

ordered a pair on kiapartsoverstock.com... ill give it a try and see how it goes. I thought after a while the compression would help smash the weatherstrip down, but its not helping at all....

Looks like a works kit on the wheels... but im interested in the air dam. I have seen some 240Z styles that look similar, but not any that look like this for the 280Z. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Mine appears to be wearing out with some minor seeping of gas on a full tank (when gas is in the neck area). Anyone know where I can find a new one, or a very good used one? I have an early 76 280Z...

Yep I have the same sounds... I talked to a few people around town and they seem to have it to. They dont have the wolf creek CV's... They thought that might solve it, they thing its just the old ujoints with the new geometry going slow around a turn.... seems like 10mph or less is when it happens. 15mph and above doesnt seem to have that effect.

Who's up for some dumpster diving?

I realize the carbs there, but what is the thing it comes with? It looks like it might be something that goes into the thermostat port for maybe cooling the intake plenum or something??? Does it install behind or infront of the carbs?

interesting... i found one on the yahoo auctions, where someone did flip it around, and welded it onto the flange. with some polishing, it looks like it could look really nice, but its pretty well used, but cheap... thats what gave me the idea, to buy a new one, and then just do the same process...

The mounting pattern looks exactly like it would fit on a weber carb setup. Does anyone know if its pattern is the same? I realize it would need to be mounted upside down, but Im wondering it it could be adapted to work?

As others stated, no 50's. Just like any setup, your dont want to over carb your engine. Doing too big of a carb, and choking it down too small can harm performance. A 45 DCOE with 32mm chokes flows less than a 40 DCOE with the same size chokes. A 45 will breathe better at higher rpms. You didnt mention what you plan on using this setup for... Street? Race? Track? Autocross?

Hasnt been down the strip since its been built? Hope it doesnt turn into a trailer queen... http://www.kansas.com/cars/article3367490.html

ebay usually has got a few good ones... here is one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260z-280z-Harada-Intake-manifold-for-triple-Mikuni-Webers-/281473000614?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41891924a6&vxp=mtr

Leon - So I tried out some F7's that you recommended to Steve.... did a long drive with them on surface streets, and freeway. Basically I just took my jets I had on my F11's and moved them over to the F7's since they seemed to work on the round the block test (160 MJ and 220AC). Its a little rich at WOT 11ish, but other than that, couldnt tell any difference over the F11's. Any further testing for me needs to be on a dyno at this point.

I got the new 3.9 LSD diff installed yesterday with the RT mount and did some spirited driving tonight, definitely love the new setup! However, I noticed, when I turn right, on the driver side, I hear some knocking/clunking, kinda hard to explain.... I did notice when I installed the RT mount kit, that I had just few free centimeters from the bottom of the front diff bolts to the crossmember.(Ill have to take a picture to show you what im talking about). I am wondering if it might be twisting a little and knocking against the crossmember... Its fine when I turn left, and in a straight line. Going to pull the drivers side wheel, make sure everything is tight, and inspect that crossmember. Maybe I installed the bolts wrong now that I think of it. The bolts I installed top down, instead of bottom up. Make sense?? That might make more room, but then the whole mount has to come out again... EDIT **** Didnt have to remove anything, going to leave it as it is. Doesnt look like any contact with the bolts and the crossmember have been made. Further checking everything out and everything looks good... My only guess now is that the u-joint is acting up and maybe going to fail on the drivers side rear.

Dude you rock! Congratulations!

interesting... anyone know the build page on this car? As unique as it is, I bet its out there somewhere...