AZGhost623

Yeah... so the front has wheel adapters on it right now as a temporary solution. When the wheel adapters go (when I come up with another 500$), the wheel will get sucked in 2 inches. There will be plenty of room at that point. Turning the wheel, it clears fine, but I wouldnt want to do anything serious with the car yet until I get those replaced.

So an interesting turn of events. Started playing with the rear quarter panels today, and they are not what they should be. Everyone was pretty pissed, but we made some lemonade out of it. A new plug will be made from what we come up with that will be offered on ztrix.com as a wide body kit. So these so called 'imsa' mold quarters came from zforceproductions who is now out of biz. Anyone who has dealt with them, or knows the history can probably understand why we're having issues. The rears don't even match. One has a very nice bulbous hump to it, while the other is somewhat flat. While fitting the quarters on the passenger side, we ran into a rust pocket on the rocker panel that just disintegrated. So the quarter panel had nowhere tie down to on the rocker. I spent all day tearing the rocker off drilling spot welds, while the ztrix guys worked on a new solution. I knew the rocker panel was bad, but didnt know how bad until today. I had the replacement part in my garage for the last 2 years. So with some coaching, I tore it down. Man it was a pain in the ass, hope to never do that again. Tomorrow (Saturday) we are fitting the front gnose on, and bolting everything up and cutting the rear fenders. Ill end up taking the car home until they have the new molds for the quarters done, which should take about a week Im guessing. its going to be pretty wild...

Front end test fitment... The Gnose isnt even 24 hours old yet from birth, needs another 24 hours or so to completely harden up. This is the first time ztrix.com has ever done this mold with this Gnose. There is some minor quality issues they do need to address with it.. Im impressed on how much of a perfectionist these guys are. The front fenders drop right in like it was made for it. From first look it doesnt look like any modifications will be needed. All the body lines match up great. Keep in mind, the front wheels have a 2" adapter on them to convert to the 5x114 lug pattern. If I get the silvermine hubs, the wheels will tuck in 2" under the body panel. More to come soon... http://imgur.com/a/LPDjJ

Koenigsegg has been doing some incredible 3D printing with metal. They have a patented twin scroll 3d printed turbo charger, and an intake manifold. Its possible, but Im sure the equipment that does this is rare right now and only with high end manufacturers. Koenigsegg has quite a few videos of their 3d printed parts and manufacturing of them up on Youtube.

it doesnt work well.. the valve train on these guys is noisey and its been my experience of false positives when trying to use one.

Need a set. Thanks!

Its on my bucket list to do. Definitely if I win the lottery its happening LOL... If anyone does make it over there, they need to strap a camera on and record it with a timer!

Removed the front end and fenders. I kinda dig the open wheeled look....oddly reminds me of the slant nose 930 porsche for some reason... Ztrix.com is still working on the rear quarters. This kit isn't for sale on his website yet, but will be soon. Im his first with this kit. Will be meeting up with him next week at his shop to do the the fitment and install. Need to cut the rear arches out, but my partner in crime hasnt been able to help me out with that yet. Did drive the car around the block like this, seems to handle just fine. Have some surface rust it looks like I need to attend to as well. Everything is going swimmingly for a change .... hmmm

Read this is possible, but have not found any details on it, or pictures so old, they arent visible anymore. Any know the process on how to modify the stock hood hinge to work with a gnose? Doesnt look like Bad Dog sells them anymore, and ZCCJDM is out of stock for 5-6 weeks. If its possible to modify the stock hinges, I want to check that out. Anyone got more detailed info on how this is done? THanks!

Looking for any Youtube videos that have in cockpit view of an S30 making its way around the ring. The real deal please, no video games. If a stockish AE86 can do it under 9mins, I am curious to see what a stockish S30 could do EDIT**** Had a brief conversation with this guy, he shipped his car from CA to Spain. Then drove it down there to have a track day. He has a whole progress of the trip in multiple segments filmed out. Pretty epic! Thanks!

The front fender replacements extend 5" past the existing stock fender lip. The tires fit under the fender just fine with room to spare. There may be some minor tweaks, but Im not expecting anything drastic at this time that tells us it wont work.

Change of plans.... Front fenders and IMSA body flares, and GTU GNOSE curing now. Everything is measured, and everything will fit. Will be ready to pop out on Monday and will require some work to make these parts go together (easy stuff) Rear Quarters molds still be worked for gas tank filler area. These are the outside of the mold, the ugly side. Gelcoat side is on the inside which is what makes the part. Never to wide! Looking at you RebekahsZ....

Edan is a cool guy at Silvermine, done lots of biz with him, send him a message, Im sure he would know.

http://www.raceworksmotorsport.com/follow-the-datsun-adventures/ Started 2/1/15, pretty cool stuff.. scroll down for the gallery so far.

I ground them off, fits fine now. Atleast I have a template to work with now, and can cut the fenders out to match the flares. When the new barrels come in, and I can just swap them in.

Ok, everything is back together, everything spins nice and freely without any noise. The driver side was definitely easier on replacing the bearings than the passenger side... So did the first fitment test, and ran into another small issue. Before I cut these 'nubs' off to make it flat, I just wanted to make sure Im not missing anything important here on why they need to be there. Also on a side note, I finally may have found someone who can rebarrel the wheels if needs be. Since this tire size is getting harder to find (335) I am looking at going down to 17x11 and running 315/35... Ill have them do a 3" inner lip, and an 8" outter step lip so they match... They will also fit under the flare completely at that point too. Right now Im half a finger length over the flare now without the tire being completely bolted down.. They needed one more piece of information before they could quote me on new barrels which was the PCD of the rivets on the face. They seem to be about 324mm which was under their max limit. Ill get them professionally measured out if its a go. Looks like it will be about 500$ a side when all said and done to my door. I'll take pictures soon..

well I got one side semi done today before the dinner bell rang. (started late today) The best way I can explain this is a fat guy trying to fit into skinny jeans in trying to get the axles mounted to the stub axle flanges. After greasing up that whole inner chamber, Im kinda wondering if built up air pressure is keeping it from going back together again. Putting it together a lot of grease came out because of air pockets pushing it out. But I did grease the hell out of it tho as it seemed like very little was inside when pulling it all apart. Probably a good thing I did this... Both sleeves were a bit discolored from heat too. Its torqued to 200 ft lbs as its supposed to be. Ill have to play with it some more. Got the nice nuts that dont require them to have the divot in them to ping them in. Used anti-seize on the entire stub axle, and then some blue locktite on the bolt. Greased everything up, filled the cavity up with grease and put it all together. Used my cordless to zip the bolt down, followed by the torque wrench. And dang, when did bearings get so expensive... $200 worth of new parts... 43262-W1200 NUT LOCK AXLE $4.73 2x $9.46 43215-E4100 BEARNG-WHEEL $41.55 2x $83.10 43232-E4100 SEAL GREASE $5.67 2x $11.34 43210-E4100 BRG RR AX IN $37.94 2x $75.88 $30-ish in shipping

Ill shoot them an email and see what they say. Thanks!

Im converting to 5x114.3 now. I have a very unique set of wheels im working to get fit, but still may not fit exactly the way I want. They are old vintage 3 piece wheels, and I cant find anyone in town to rebarrell them because of their age. So Im still keeping an eye open for other options. The TE37V's are nice, but Im looking for something a little more unique since Panasports and Volk/Rays seem to be what everyone goes with.

was this the link your trying to send me to? http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=ja&wheel=TE37V&SLANG=ja&TLANG=en&XMODE=0&XCHARSET=UTF-8&XJSID=0

HRE505's are pretty rare, they show up from time to time, but they were mainly found on high end cars back in the day. From what I have seen, they were an option wheel on the Ferrari 288's and 308 GTO's.. I have no plan on getting rid of them...I've loved these wheels for some time ever since I was a kid and first saw them. HRE still makes them in their vintage line but 18"+ and starting at 2,000$ a wheel. I think I was close to 10k out the door the way I wanted it... I would have to be in the drug running biz to support that kind of $$$ right now LOL - Ill start off just fitting them as is, once I get the axles back from silvermine motors and go from there. I did talk with a fiberglass guy who was more than willing to do a little reshaping of the flares in the rear if I wanted, said it would be pretty simple to do to extend it out an inch or so... so for now, just going to go with it and see where it takes me.

We can shave the inside hub on the wheel a bit... about 1" down and it wont affect the integrity of the wheel or the bolting of it. They are very very thick. When all said and done, it will be less than half a finger length passed the rear flare. I'm ok with that... I was also told (have not verified) but if I get the T3 adjustable rear LCA's I can adjust the wheel upto 1" in which will also get me more room. I have no plans to do this yet tho and need to do further verification that its possible to do that and any ramifications on tire wear because of it.

Wheel shop here in Tempe, AZ couldn't do anything they tried. Too old, and HRE doesn't have the tooling to do anything with them, again too old. However, they did find a company out of the UK that has a pretty close knockoff if I wanted to go that route. They can build it any size, any offset, anything you want basically, and pricing seems ok. However, I didnt want to risk the chance of it not looking right. http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/large_wheel_pages/b11.html I did contact them, and got out the door pricing, not too bad, but not my deal. These will stick out a bit with the new axles, but Im not too worried at this point anymore. It will only be a couple inches now without the adapters. So I got some 27 spline stub axles and companion flanges off a car here in town through craigslist, and sent them over to silvermine motors to do the 5 lug conversion on. This gave me a bit of time to work on my car to get the stub axles off, and if I ruined one not a big deal since the good ones are at Silvermine. Its a good thing too, because the passenger side didnt want to come off at all. BFH to the rescue and it came off, but it got pretty beat up in the process... Got the axle nuts, new bearings, and seals all ready to go in once they come back from Silvermine. Getting closer!

I found the part at nissanpartszone.com. I usually dont like dealing with these guys, but they had the part 43262-W1200 is what is needed. I also purchased some spare 27 spline spindles here in town from someone, which Ill send out to get the 5 hub conversion done, and then put those back into the car. Ill have spares now in case these get messed up getting pulled out.

Doing some reading on what it takes to pull out the rear hubs on a 280z, and see the nut is peened onto the spindle. After cutting part of it so the nut spins off more than likely the nut will need to be replaced. Anyone know a part number on this nut? Also read that possibly the ZX nut doesnt require to be peened on, not sure how its held on ??? Is it possible to use this nut on 280z rear spindles? Any help is appreciated, just trying to get all the parts required a head of time. Thanks!