AZGhost623

Found this... now I am really not sure if its going to work. It seems as if the RS650 would be the right model to get. I am swapping out my S30 R200 and replacing it with an S130 3.9 rear... I guess I should get the driveshaft and flanges as well? Why would it matter if the ratio of the rear is 3.9 ? http://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue/index.html#page=147

No longer needed, thanks to Jamal!

I have been searching on this part number, and I get a couple hits that shows it seems to work in 240SX and R200's. The Japanese website I see it for sale on says S30's, DR30's and HR31, and S130's. Can anyone provide insight if it will work? If I didnt see the 240SX pop up a websearch, I wouldnt have been concerned, but since returning would be a problem since its overseas, I want to make sure it will work ok. edit its cheap enough that i might be able to resell it here in the states if needed... i just pulled the trigger on it.

How much you looking for Jamal? The honor to pull... now thats a new one

Hey Jamal, yes I am still looking. You got one?

Sent you an email ZGuy...

Heh... sounds like something I dont want to get involved with.... thanks for the response tho!

Looking for 3.90 rear for my 280Z, open diff is fine from one of these model years. 280ZX 80 MT 2+2 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200)

Based on TimZ's build I have read about, one of the big problems he had was controlling EGT's with his early setup... might also be another thing you need to worry about in your build. I suggest you go find TimZ build and read through it.

man these things are expensive 425$ - 725$

Anyone out there make a body electrical and ignition wiring harness for the Z? I spoke with wiring specialties, and they will remake the harness if I send it to them. Painless sells a generic that looks pretty good 10102 that they recommended. I got rid of the EFI on my car so I dont need that part of it. What I like about the painless setup is that its all labeled on the wires ever 1ft on what it is so future troubleshooting would be rather easy. I might go the painless route if there isnt any other good alternatives. Anything else out there that wouldnt be custom, more factory?

It is fused coming from the alternator. Hooked up new alternator as voltage reg tested bad in old one. Soon as I made the connection with the fuse back in, fuse blew instantly (ignition off). Pulled the wiring harness apart, and it was fused from the 6gauge hot wire on the alternator into 3 seperate wires going into the car. I assume one is for the volt gauge, cant figure out what the other goto yet. Im assuming one of these wires is the problem ... Ill need to back track to figure out where it goes. But for now, Im just going to bypass everything, with the hot wire right from the alternator into the maxfuse setup. Also, so your saying that the other 3 white wires with the red stripe arent needed if the EFI harness is gone?

Dealing with the exact same issue as of last night. Noticed my charge on my gauge in the car reads zero. Measured at the alternator and it was dead. I also have the internal regulator with the fusible links gone. Looks like the 40amp fuse blew as well. So whatever happened on that alternator was bad... Im replacing everything tonight, but I am 90% tempted to rip the wiring out and make sure its all good still in that bundle as well...

heh... as a 6'1 250lb man, its my meatball hands thats the problem in that tight spot... seat removal may help, I didnt think of that. Ill give it a go, thanks!

thanks, Ill give it a try... any advice on how to work with this? its a PIA to get positioned in the car upside down, you have to be a contortionist to get in there. What size is the nut, do you know off hand?

Replaced the clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and installed a competition clutch lightweight flywheel, and their stage 2 clutch kit. When I replaced the master cylinder I made the threaded rod about the same length as the other one when removing it. Bled the system thoroughly. 5 Speed has been swapped in as well. Measuring out the pedal its right at 7.5" from carpet to top of pedal. FSM says 8.78" so Im way out of adjustment apparently. Whats happening is when I try to go into reverse it grinds... but goes in. While holding the clutch in, the car will actually start moving backwards very slowly. Going into first gear, its really tough to get into gear. Everything else seems to work ok and its a very sticky clutch otherwise. Which way do I need to turn the threaded rod? Someone told me to turn it out, but after looking at it, I think I need to turn it IN to push the pedal out further.. correct? I was also told not to worry about the grind because there is no syncro on reverse. Just doesnt make sense to me... It does not look like I have a whole lot of room to operate with from the picture I took.. The pedal is at rest in this photo, its not even touching the other adjustment knob it looks like.... Any advice?

I've seen the Porsche venturis with the longer stem, and found history on those pretty quickly but never seen a setup on DCOE's before. Asked around a bit, and this was something that was completely custom made, not an off the shelf oem part. Looking at the nozzle, it looks like its pinched in a bit and flarred out at the end like a rocket nozzle... wonder if it had the same effect Cool vintage stuff either way....

heh... there is one up on ebay if you have a G

Anyone ever seen something like this? Its off a 48/45 DCOE Weber on a race build 3.1L setup. Was this an OEM part or something custom fabricated after the fact? Any known history?

Still have the previous owners contact info? Thats where I would start...

As a drift car your going to have to do a lot of extra work. These cars dont drift that well on their own. As far as the stock engine goes, there are a few good places that can rebuild your engine for you. Your over in California, so you have quite a few good shops around you already. Check with a local Datsun group and see who they use, or else head to Rebello or TopEndPerformance. For what you spend on a rebuilt RB25, plus installation kits, you might be better off just rebuilding the L28ET. Price wise, it might be pretty close. You can get 450HP out of that engine L28ET rather easily once its sorted. Your not going to want to run the stock wiring kit, so something like megasquirt would be perfect. Even with a new SBC 350 your going to be looking around $3000+ without a trans unless you go used.

well i pulled it out after it sat all night... it came out relatively easy with some light taping from the hammer... used a wire brush on input shaft and tail shaft, and stuck it back in... I was able to get it in without the hammer, but it was still a super tight fit with some major tugging wiggling jiggling but no hammer needed this time... spun the drive shaft by hand a few times and seems ok... just a tight fit. ran the engine with it in neutral since its still up on ramps, and no leaks! I think it will be fine..

I know I saw the post when you added the 3rd! I cant even find one!

Still have a bit more to do before I can do a road test... its got a light tune on it, but its pretty impressive... sucks air down like no tomorrow... you can hear a woosh sound of the air... http://youtu.be/TU0MbrzPJiA

Yeah I agree... according to articles on here its a direct fit... I counted the splines as well, 24 on current driveshaft and on new tailend of the trans and on existing 4speed... Yeah I guess a wire brush or something to clean it up. I was kinda dreading taking it back out and in again based on how much trouble it gave me... I have to stop at ACE and get some new lock washers for the bolts on the driveshaft, so Ill get a wirebrush and get it cleaned up... if I can get it out I did test it several times on the old 4speed, and it just slips on... figured new parts might be a tighter fit...