AZGhost623

its 2.5" mandrel bend from the collector back, stainless, all one piece.

Super quick responses today... Alright after reading about it on classiczcar, Ill go that way. Just ordered the mount and the urethane stop. Guess the car will remain ass up face down until the parts get here Thanks all!

I was looking at the RT mount... but seems to be for V8 applications? Yeah dog collar LOL... I dunno about a nylon strap. I would hope there are better options out there before you have to go that route.

Since I have my diff out to swap, I was looking at that strap and seems pretty worn out. Figured I would replace it. The ZStore sells two different kinds for some reason. Can anyone recommend one over the other, or maybe someone else thats been tried and true? Blackdragon auto doesnt seem to carry it and ZCarSource has it as unknown availability. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22d03/10-2290A http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22d03/10-2290B

F11's work for many on here, and some race with them, so I wouldnt necessarily call them the worst. Im currently running them and they work just fine. ZRedBaron before his engine blew was running F2's (I think he was 3.1L as well) He had after market ignition setup (Electromotive), 40choke, 160 main, 210 air. F2's also have the smallest orifice opening for the main jet at 7.5mm so like someone stated its a lean jet. I have F7's and tried them briefly. Unfortunately I decided to stop testing on them, and removed all my test notes I had on them. I was curious what the japanese tuners do on these engines, so I reached out to one of them via email (http://spark88.blog.fc2.com). He sticks to three types. F2, F9 and F11. His main goto choice on a 3.0L engine is F9. He starts with a 185 MJ and 230AC and adjusts from there. HIs blog is incredible, might be worth to check it out, but he is super secretive with specifics. Use google chrome so it auto translates for you. I have a slew of parts to try out still and see what works best. But I think I need a dyno to really tell me. Right now my car is up in the air as Im swapping out the diff with a higher gear, but as soon as thats done Im going to be testing some more now that it has cooled off here in Phoenix. I have the following etubes F2,F3,F7,F9,F11,F16 with mainjets from 140-185, and air correctors from 165 to 230. Ill be able to test pretty much any kind of setup on my 3.0L.

I think one of the previous posters was right. Get the word out to more Z sites and clubs to spread the word. Maybe even a kickstarter campaign. I think that if you get some video up of it working, and probably dyno videos too (as people are going to ask) you may get more interest. Right now saying 10k without more solid proof to back the product up is a hard nut to swallow. Also I was curious on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Is anything on the market today going to fit this or will we have to get new exhaust and intake manifolds from you as well?

SO... the strap trick worked after almost a week of sitting... door closes fine now and its sealed real good with no leaks at all... I suspect to get it to be a super light close instead of a moderate slam it will continue to take some time for the rubber to break in. But it no longer pops the door out now. I still have some more rubber work to do on the car, but so far so good. Yea the Hatch seal was super puffy, but like you said it compresses it down because of its weight. Similar thing needed to happen with the door.

Cleaned up, painted and ready to be mounted into the car once I have a free weekend. Spins really nice. Cant wait!! Never used a 2WAY before, so should be interesting... Plan to fill it up with Redline MT90. http://imgur.com/a/mgDbK Subsequently, I found another one on yahoo japan for sale exactly the same one I got if anyone is looking to do the same thing. You will need a service like bidjdm.com to get it over here. http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d156712562

I was actually thinking of doing just that... Ill give it a go and see what happens!

Funny... I was just alerted to this thread. I installed both the Precision kit from ZCarSource on my hatch and doors. (I bought the complete kit). The hatch is definately thick but closes and seals fine. The tail light seals are real good as well. The door seals not so good nor the quarter glass seals. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119765-door-opening-weather-strip/?p=1121911 You can see the door strip pops the door out a bit and its a tough to close it. Im hoping that it just needs to be compressed for a while, and then it will be fine. I read some reviews and some people have said that after a week or so they were fine. Otherwise Ill pull them out and go down the kia route.

Precision is the brand from ZCarSource. Yep, its got the 90 degree corner. I have an early 76. Ill have to find the conversation it looks like, because thats what's happening its too thick...

This may seem stupid, but I cant figure out which way the weather strip installs. If I install the door weather strip with the 'puffy' side out towards the door (which I assume is correct) the door doesnt close all the way. If I install it with the 'puffy' side in towards the inside of the, it has a bit of gap around the door and doesnt look right. What am I doing wrong?

The diff shop measured out the flange to be .44" / 11mm on the LSD. So looks like the bushings will be need. They had me order the ZMB 1012-10 and only 4 of them as thats enough to keep the ring gear centered. The rest will just provide the clamping force needed. They did mention that this was the first time they saw brass bushings, they typically deal with steel. They do this kind of bushing work on DANA axles, but had nothing that would fit in house. Thanks John!

So you loosened up each throttle arm, and set the throttle plate to the half moon state. Then you tightened up each arm, and reset your idle since now all plates are sync'd across the carb right?

I cant remember, but I read somewhere that having a high number air corrector is indicative of some kind of other issue. Does anyone remember? Like the AC is masking another issue? I daily drove the Z last week to get a better feel for it, and I damn near have it dialed in. Its changed a bit from what Rebello said to use when they dyno'd the engine (with his intake/exhaust setup). I dont know why my experience would need to have this changed when using my own components on the engine? But so far, with a F11, 160 main, and 210 AC its like a completely different car. I need to go up another size or two on the AC to help lean it out a little more for WOT. Going down in size on the main jet seems to really affect the punch it gives at WOT... smaller main jets makes the car completely gutless... Working with the AC side of it seems to really make a difference in the tuning of it.

How accurate is this thing? I have my electromotive ignition system wired up to it. Last night I finally ripped into the new engine after babying it for the first 250 miles and the rev limiter on the electromotive system cuts out at about 5500 rpm showing on the stock tac. The Electromotive system is set to about 6500 rpm (its in 1k increments) So I moved it up to 7k, but havent tried it out yet. My big concern is maybe something is off not reporting right and its doing what its supposed to do? Anyone else with experience on this?

Whatever the stock needle valve is on the 45's ... I have not changed that part out. Hmm maybe because your reading it at the tailpipe, it can continue to burn off on the hot exhaust tube/muffler? My O2 sensor is installed right after the header on the collector which is where it said to install it. Im using one of those AEM Wideband UEGO setups... Do you not have anything to measure on the car while you drive it, or is this all being done on a dyno? How are you putting load on the car while you test it out?

Lazeum, Its weird for sure. For me I can make the slightest change with a choke 1 size up/down and everything has to be redone.The fact that your changing these things even timing, and not seeing a change is suspect. How old/new is your AFR sensor? Could it be bad? My problem is opposite of yours. If I want HIGH RPM, with good afr, I need it rich really down low. The Idle jet on mine 65F9 is perfect with 13-14 AFR never below or higher but Im running DCOE45's. According to my Dyno sheet from Rebello, I think I have the same cam (63di?) as you from the sounds of it. My 3.0L engine, has peak torque coming on at 5200 with max HP at 6500 rpm (how can HP go up and torque go down? Doesnt torque make HP?). I agree with you about the torque should be all the way up through the top. Why it dies out I dont know. Maybe its the design of the cam or something...I still plan to play with etubes some more to see if there is any change, it just gets expensive 90$ each time I want to try another etube. I have 4 right now, F2, F7, F11 and F16. Im running F11 like you. I do know those 40's are a light on the top end, where as the 45's carry well up into the high rpm ranges. I would be more concerned on why you changing chokes, timing, jets and you dont see a change.... mine is so sensitive you sneeze and its different on the afr gauge. Thats what I would investigate first. Just throwing it out there but my setup as it stands now (as rebello dyno'd): Main 165 AC 200 Etube F11 Idle 65F9 38mm Chokes 45pump 00 bleed

Yeah I thought I read that somewhere else too... but if Mr Coffey recommends bushings, Im going to do it. Better safe than sorry

Yeah its going to have to be opened up either way once I get the LSD to install it. Unfortunately I didnt have anytime this weekend to mess with this, so ill have to check it out when I get a free moment and open it up to see what its got. I thought maybe someone knew off hand what it 1982 bolt size was on the ring gear... If my ring gear is 10mm, and the LSD is 12mm which we know, then I either need to drill it out, or get some kind of bushing to go into the LSD holes to make up for the space? Im not sure what the process is, but Im hoping its 12mm all around so I dont even have to mess with it. Time will tell...

http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67224281-260Z-w-Chev-Badge-4WD-LS1-or-something&p=839951986&viewfull=1#post839951986 Hilux transfer case with R200 LSD's in front and rear.. edited post to go straight to the answer

SWEET! I looked at using him too, but he was more expensive than Dave. I was thinking about the same route you were going but based off costs and what he was quoting me, I just decided to use Dave. Ill be very interested in hearing how your project turns out!

that is very cheap, but you guys know you can get them from rockauto.com pretty easily right?

heh... if you figure it out, let me know... it just lets me save one page at a time. Going through the entire manual you are right. the 38420-RS660 is using M12x1.25 and says qty 10 on page 151. It also says that the Gear Supported range is 3.154 to 5.143. And as John mentioned above it is a circlip/snap ring type. I made sure to get the S130 side axles which are snapclip type as well. Does the S130 Diff I have now use 10mm bolts? What it a good place to get the 12mm bolts for the ring gear or bushings to make it fit right? I have been doing some light google searches while typing this out to see if I can find out if its 10 or 12mm. I guess I could actually go open it and see what it is Differential work is all new to me.

so what does that have to do with the LSD saying it works with 4.11? Am I going to have an issue using this LSD with an S130 at 3.91? Ive already done the tranny swap with the close ration 5speed, now im working on the last part of the drive train. on a side note, I am picking up the flanges and drive shaft along with the R200 3.9 Diff today. So i think from what John says Ill be ok, but Im curious to know why the Nismo chart says 4.11. Will it not work with 3.9 and why does that matter? (im not a differential expert with LSD's)