AZGhost623

If you put up one of your nismo headers, let me know!!

Leon, knowing you, you probably already researched this out, but found this article on the bilsteins.. looks like there will be some minor work to get it to fit right http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112252-need-help-to-fit-bilstein-p30-0032-on-my-280z/

I asked him about the tail bushing, I dont think we replaced it, not sure if we knew it was replacable actually... I saw Tamo's pics and used that as a reference. When I was working out the driveshaft last night and used a paint pen to mark how far it went in on its own. After jiggling and wiggling it about it went in past the paint mark, and then thats when I got the hammer out. A few good wacks and it went in all the way. It still wiggles a tad, but its in there solid. Spins/turns very easy no rubbing/grinding sounds... Thats oil residue on the end, because I put some oil on it to try and help it slip in.. then I went with grease... when I went to put this back in... Since it spins freely and doesnt make any sounds when doing so, Im pretty sure its ok... it may just be all these new parts trying to seat well together... Should I pull it all out and inspect it further to see if anything got scored?

i got it in last night finally... wiggled and jiggled until it just would go anymore... pulled it back out, greased it up and and went at it again, and it went in a bit farther... so got the hammer out and pounded it in and its in... spins ok, no grinding sounds or anything so I think it was just a super tight fit since everything is new... however, my pounding put it in too far, and now its too far forward to mount to the diff... yanked on it a little and got it barely to budge, so ill be trying to figure out something tonight on getting it bolted back up... This wasnt supposed to be this hard.. of all things to be difficult the driveshaft was not on my list....

Got a picture?

Yep the lips point in, solid/one piece facing out.

doh, its in backwards? if its in backwards, then its in backwards on my 4speed as well....

Swapped in an 81 5 speed into my 76 280Z replacing the 4 speed. Member Duragg rebuilt it while I watched and learned about a year ago (he has rebuilt many) Didnt hook up the driveshaft today since I wanted to check the new rebello engine out today and get it tuned... However, I quickly found fluid everywhere out the rear of the transmission where the drive shaft would go. Its got new rubber in there, so I didnt expect fluid to come out... Is this normal to leak without the driveshaft in? Second, tried putting my driveshaft in, and it wont go in. Tried it a few different ways, and doesnt seem to go, just gets stuck... Is the driveshaft collar the same? I thought it was from some other posts I found, but wanted to make sure. Splines look really good on the 5speed, better than what is on my 4speed. http://youtu.be/CSRruChHX2Q

Yes

I have a champion radiator 3 row in my 280 bought off ebay for $211.90 according to my notes. dropped right in. I did email the guy to see if they had any fan shroud kits to fit this with electric fans, but got no response. It was from the 'coolingpros'. Had to figure something out on my own.

Yes, just in general...I do run the XDI setup, and it works awesome. However, I got into a debate with someone who thinks the latest technology is now on par with distributorless system setup. Like you say with a proper EMS setup then the COP system is still the way to go. The 123Ignition system seems to just solve part of the equation or a valid solution for those running carbs.

With the high end distributor like 123Ignition thats fully tunable, how does it compare to those who have gone the route with a crank fired ignition with no distributor? Is the 123 just as good as someone running without? Has anyone seen any comparable "vs" of these new systems pitted against each other?

shoot it from the side of the car instead of directly from the rear. Agree we need video!

Update on anyone still following this. Unfortunately I ran into some issues and had to send the head back to Rebello, and Dave wanted my block as well. So off everything went. I wasnt able to get it dyno'd with just the head porting like I had originally wanted. Basically the previous builder who I bought this from did not in fact deck the block like it says on the build. So when dave was done with the head, he of course straightened it as part of his process, and then no longer fit onto my block. I had to use an MLS gasket to get the proper height from Dave's recommendation, and with the slopes/valleys around the water jackets on the block it just wasnt going to work. leaks everywhere... So after talking to him while he had everything, I had him build up a 3.0L. It was dyno'd this morning, and is being crated up to ship back to me. Pretty flat torque curve with a peak of 264.5 at 5200 and total hp all in at 6500 with 297.3 hp. Im assuming 240-250hp-ish after parasitic loss at the wheels... Should be a deathtrap on wheels at this point LOL http://i.imgur.com/EUHwdpv.jpg Invoice/Build sheet shows: Grind Crank and Stroke .040 .040 Rod Bearings .010 main 240Z Rods /w arp 89mm bore Cast Pistons Boil Bore & Hone Deck block and cover size rods and pistons build short block dress engine set cam timing pressure test

45s

I had no problems installing these on the TC... The only place I had a problem was on the steering rack. No matter what I did, I couldnt get the damn things to fit. Everything else went in great.

For whatever its worth... Dave at Rebello told me to use for my New 3.0L being shipped to me: Choke 38mm Main Jet 165 Idle Jet 60F9 Air Corrector 200 I would assume for a 3.1L your settings shouldnt be far off...

Interesting enough... my nissan titan runs an oil cooler just like that... radiator hose into a sandwhich plate, and back out.. Had to replace the seal on it a few weeks back and it was the first time I ever saw something like that... would be interesting to see if the bolt sizes line up... might be an interesting fit if it could work...

I believe TimZ has a 600HP Z... build info http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55924-went-to-the-dyno-with-the-gt42r-today/

Once you get an O2 sensor installed which you said was in the works it will definitely shed light onto you fuel system. I would run F11 tubes if it were me which are great for top end... F2 tubes are good for very large main jets or alcohol based fuels. I would also go up in your main jet, and then adjust from there with air correctors. Say a 160 main jet, with 200 or 210 air correctors and keep adjusting if needed only on the air corrector to richen/lean out the fuel. Its very expensive to start playing with changing out jets since you have to buy 6 of each every time... read/checkout the weber faq list on here... order from piercemanifolds.com or pelicanparts.com.

What are your main jet, tubes, and air corrector sizes on your webers? Watching the video it looks like it could be a jetting issue with the popping sounds on the exhaust. Agree'd on the head porting, your going to unlock a lot of power there, but shouldnt die off like that... leads me to believe either a jet problem or ignition issue.

Anyone have a picture of the L28 head and what it looks like at TDC, or the best way to find TDC for a head (without it attached to the vehicle)? Thanks!

Well they told me to send in my old felpro gasket and they will add a new line to their catalog for it. In the mean time I can either drill out the hole or wait until they get the template modeled for a gasket to fit 1980 to 1983.

Here are the pictures I sent over to Cometic. They are reviewing and will get back to me. On your felpro pic, the waterjacket is open where it is in question on the MLS gasket closed off. I have read on other websites, that the holes may be different sizes to help with metering the flow of oil/coolant through the head/block which isnt a concern of mine. I did read on some BMW forums, they weld up coolant passages to help with better flow/pressure, where as an MLS corrects this right out of the box. So not sure if this is intended as some kind of performance mod or not. Hope to hear back from Cometic by end of day so I can get this buttoned up one way or another (to drill it out or not). Its the only hole is question, everything else is open.

SO... Got everything off. #6 was pretty wet, and noticed a water jacket was blocked on the MLS gasket near #6. I plan to call Cometic up tomorrow directly and ask what the heck. The punch out for the jacket is there, but its not cut. The water jacket is there on the block and on the head. I doubt Ill be able to do anything with a 'return' now that the MLS gasket has been sprayed with copper. I also put down a very thin layer of rtv red silcon gasket on the block as well for safe measure around all the water jackets. But my thinking is if that jacket is blocked off, then it might be trying to get that pressure out any which way it can...